If I could add to your passenger wreck files… here is a wreck on the famous NP S-Bridge on the Coeur d’Alene Branch Line.
Photo from the Barnard-Stock Bridge Collection, University of Idaho.
If you want to see more photos of this wreck check out the collection.
Devon Sinsley said:
Totally digging it Doc Tom. I think the steel cladding will be a great touch. Can you figure a reason for a cannon and gun port a well?
I hated history until I read about the Monitor and the Merrimack. I discovered something in history that really caught my fancy. That led to warplanes and other ships, now RRs you just have to find your niche.
Thanks Devon.
The cannon could be used to shoot bear 1860’s style. But the Colonel wants a live capture to take to the zoo and make some money.
Here’s the good ole boys and gals getting ready to “hunt B’ar” in more modern times.
Devon Sinsley said:
If I could add to your passenger wreck files… here is a wreck on the famous NP S-Bridge on the Coeur d’Alene Branch Line.
Photo from the Barnard-Stock Bridge Collection, University of Idaho.
If you want to see more photos of this wreck check out the collection.
That is very terrifying. I live in fear that this will happen some day on the big trestle on my layout.
Tom,
Now I never said the cannon had to shoot a cannon ball and kill the bear did I? Fish and game frequently darts bears to make them go nighty night. So even though i have little desire to aid and abed the enemy maybe since your trying to capture a truly large bear maybe a cannon sized tranquilizer dart is in order…a la Merimac style.
As for the trestle check out the collection and type in S bridge. some very terrifying pictures. Story has it there were no injuries.
As for the hunting party, I think I know every one of them. They pretty much look like my kind of people. Funny part is there is little difference between the people I hunt with and the people I fish with… the pictures look the same 
The girl is cute… got her number?
Devon Sinsley said:
As for the trestle check out the collection and type in S bridge. some very terrifying pictures. Story has it there were no injuries.
What an interesting story. No injuries is just amazing.
Doc Tom
Devon Sinsley said:
As for the hunting party, I think I know every one of them. They pretty much look like my kind of people. Funny part is there is little difference between the people I hunt with and the people I fish with… the pictures look the same
The girl is cute… got her number?
I dunno…she’s armed and dangerous.
Tom
I can’t get over how well done that flat car is; I keep going back to those pictures showing the flat, and I’m sure it will be a model for me, the variations in the boards, the rust in all the right places. The artistic weathering and color is perfect.
Where did an old family doctor like you get to be such a good painter???
Tom,
I have never used the India ink process but want to try it and by far your weathered wood stands out. Did I read right that you are use 90% alcohol and 10% ink or are you using the stronger alcohol at some other ratio?
John Passaro said:
I can’t get over how well done that flat car is; I keep going back to those pictures showing the flat, and I’m sure it will be a model for me, the variations in the boards, the rust in all the right places. The artistic weathering and color is perfect.
Where did an old family doctor like you get to be such a good painter???
Thanks John,
You are too kind. Got in to model RR’ing right after med school and residency in the early 80’s. Liked using the little tools and felt it would help keep suturing skills intact. Now this whole hobby can be a great stress buster…and in working in clinics for the un and underinsured there is a lot of stress. Just 30 minutes a day can relax you and help relieve the stresses of work. And being outside is a big bonus with fresh air and sunshine.
As far as painting I use a base spray of flat brown and dab on randomly 3 shades of brown going from darker to lighter brown. The india ink wash goes on next which magically blends all the colors. Then dry brush and you have highlighted rusty parts.
In working with painted metal or plastic I use the 50% Isopropyl alcohol as the 90% used on the wooden parts will eat off the paint. Don’t ask me how I know.
Hope this is helpful.
Tom
Devon Sinsley said:
Tom, I have never used the India ink process but want to try it and by far your weathered wood stands out. Did I read right that you are use 90% alcohol and 10% ink or are you using the stronger alcohol at some other ratio?
Hi Devon,
Great questions. Isopropyl alcohol comes in various strengths at your local Walgreens or other such drug store. The 90% strength is high alcohol and low water. The 50% alcohol is less alcohol and more water. I use the 90% stuff in wood staining to limit warping (less water). I use the 50 % in staining painted plastic and metal. No worrying about warpage and the higher percentage alcohol will eat off paint.
Now Isopropyl alcohol comes in usually pint bottles and is clear. By itself it won’t stain nothing.
So I next add India Ink to the one pint bottles. Everyone has there own formula for this part of the brew. What I like is 5 cc India Ink per pint for a light wash; 10 cc of India Ink per bottle for a medium wash and 15cc of India India per bottle for a heavy wash.
On this model I have been using the light wash mixtures.
Once mixed I label the bottle and cap tightly for storing. This stuff lasts forever and without labeling you will forget just what you put in the bottles over time.
I hope this is somewhat helpful.
Doc Tom
Devon Sinsley said:
Tom, I have never used the India ink process but want to try it and by far your weathered wood stands out. Did I read right that you are use 90% alcohol and 10% ink or are you using the stronger alcohol at some other ratio?
As explained above … not so much color!
I make smaller batches and count drops, usually on one hand. You can always make darker by adding layers, I also use the wash on completed models, helps to give depth to flat surfaces, build up gently and let dry between for true color.
John
OK thanks Tom and John.
I did not explain myself to well as I knew that there was stronger and weaker versions of alcohol. I didn’t know the actual percentages but I have and use both.
That is actually why I asked the question. I wasn’t sure if we were using the 90% alcohol at some certain ration or if we were using 50% alcohol at a ration of 9:1 or 90%/10%. But the detailed explanation makes it crystal clear now.
Thanks also for explaining the process you use for the base before the wash. After I asked the question I went on line and looked around and have seen a few techniques using various paints to lead up to the wash.
Can’t wait to give it a try tonight. I might even have a surprise by the end of tonight to share.
John Caughey said:
Devon Sinsley said:
Tom, I have never used the India ink process but want to try it and by far your weathered wood stands out. Did I read right that you are use 90% alcohol and 10% ink or are you using the stronger alcohol at some other ratio?As explained above … not so much color!
I make smaller batches and count drops, usually on one hand. You can always make darker by adding layers, I also use the wash on completed models, helps to give depth to flat surfaces, build up gently and let dry between for true color.
John
Yes John is so right. Build it up gradually and wait til’ fully dry to see what you get before adding a lot of wash. Have fun.
doc Tom
Devon Sinsley said:
OK thanks Tom and John.
I did not explain myself to well as I knew that there was stronger and weaker versions of alcohol. I didn’t know the actual percentages but I have and use both.
That is actually why I asked the question. I wasn’t sure if we were using the 90% alcohol at some certain ration or if we were using 50% alcohol at a ration of 9:1 or 90%/10%. But the detailed explanation makes it crystal clear now.
Thanks also for explaining the process you use for the base before the wash. After I asked the question I went on line and looked around and have seen a few techniques using various paints to lead up to the wash.
Can’t wait to give it a try tonight. I might even have a surprise by the end of tonight to share.
That’s way too much ink! I usually pour some alcohol (a bit less than half a “dropper bottle”) into a plastic cup and dip my brush in the ink the swirl it in the alcohol, maybe twice.
As noted, you can always build more color, but you can’t take it away.
Todd Brody said:
That’s way too much ink!
Yeah Todd it would be way to much. Again that’s why I had to clarify. Never having done it I wasn’t sure but a 9:1 ratio seemed to be a bit heavy on ink. I am glad i did ask before mixing to this ratio.
I already have so 90% alcohol and mixing cups so I will likely just do what you and John do for now and make a small batch for this one project. Then when I get into making my box cars and flat cars and buildings I can see doing at least some sort of larger quantities.
Devon Sinsley said:
Todd Brody said:
That’s way too much ink!
Yeah Todd it would be way to much. Again that’s why I had to clarify. Never having done it I wasn’t sure but a 9:1 ratio seemed to be a bit heavy on ink. I am glad i did ask before mixing to this ratio.
I already have so 90% alcohol and mixing cups so I will likely just do what you and John do for now and make a small batch for this one project. Then when I get into making my box cars and flat cars and buildings I can see doing at least some sort of larger quantities.
Good thinking Devon. Keep the india ink part very light.
I mix the pint bottles at 5cc Ink/ 473 cc (one pint) Isopropyl alcohol for my light wash brew. This is a 1:95 dilution. As noted this is very very thin. A 1:9 ratio is way too thick on the ink.
I use the pint bottles to make up big batches to use on locomotives, rolling stock etc. Again I use pint bottles of the 50% alcohol to avoid taking off the paint. The 90 proof stuff will dissolve paint on plastic and metal. So far the 50 proof stuff does not.
Sorry about all this math and chemistry. Hope this is helpful
OK, I’ll bite…,
Same trucks. Where did you get all the space???
(http://i542.photobucket.com/albums/gg412/DrGrab/Bear%20Cage%20Project/DSC07698_zpsd1663ba3.jpg)
(http://www.largescalecentral.com/public/album_photo/d6/cf/01/1cd08_e07f.JPG?c=09b0)
(http://www.largescalecentral.com/public/album_photo/da/cf/01/1cd0c_59c3.JPG?c=9886)
Easy answer, one that even I can explain. You see, there is this scale in model railroading called “G”. Water ever The G stands for, I’ll bet it’s not for consistency.
Doc’s kit is 16 scale feet long in 1:20.3 scale. You model in 1:24 scale, having the same 16 scale feet. BUT, and there is always a but, you are using the same trucks, same track, two scales.
A 4 1/2 ft truck in 1:20.3 comes out to about 6’5" in 1:24. You scaled down the length of the car, but not the length of the trucks.
The same truck rated at 50 tons in 1:20 would be like a 65 toner in 1:24. Your car can haul more payload then Doc’s. I doubt that the Baaar will be more then 50 tons, well maybe with all that rail and steel added.
Understand all of that.
My question is really, how come you didn’t start with the base kit the rest of us were sent? There wouldn’t have even been enough boards to span that length. I had two left over.
Or do they send the kits out specific to the scale we selected???
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Edit,
I guess they must because I ended up with 27 boards across and you have 28 rather than 30 some odd.
As Emily Latella would say, “Oh that’s very different. Never mind.”
