Richard, there you go.
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use SJ clamps when bending, the aristo ones will bend, not hold alignment, and sometimes hang up the bender.
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there’s really no “length” limitation… you are going to unwind 9’ diameter to 20’, so do it bit by bit… open the curves up until you get pretty close, and then start trimming rail.
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I do not recommend removing all the screws when bending, since there is nothing to hold gauge properly, i.e. the “spikes” have a lot of slop in them. At the minimum, leave one screw per rail , in the middle of each curve section.
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I was fine with the normal 2 screw split jaws, just again do it bit by bit.
Greg
Excellent info. Thanks to all!
-Kevin.
One thing might work and simplify things or save time:
take 2 curves, hook them together, now you can straighten them a bit… do the coarse “bending” in groups of 2.
Now you will see the inner rail is going to be too short. Now try bending one 9’ curved section backwards, completely reverse the curvature.
You might be able to work out a system where 3 sections of “relaxed” 9’ and 1 section of “reverse curved” 9’ make it so you can minimize rail cutting.
Experiment a bit, a dual rail bender is fun!
Greg
When bending a curve, I know the joints will become staggered, is there a point to where it becomes nessassary to cut the extra length? and do you cut it and add it onto the short side. I have not done any bending other than trying out my new bender in the house on some 6ft flex, so I am wondering what the best plan of attack will be .
Pete Lassen said:
When bending a curve, I know the joints will become staggered, is there a point to where it becomes nessassary to cut the extra length?
yes. at that point, where you want to connect to a straight, or to a switch.
when i re- or unbend my R1 stuff, i use the longer, outer rails to form the new curves, and the shorter inner rails for straights. (thus the “new” straight sections have the same length, as the original one foot straights) so the new curves always are staggered.
the off-cuts serve for making short sections, where necessary.
Yes the joints will become staggered. Staggered joints are more prototypical, but they can be a nuisance when it comes time to replace broken ties, or redo a section of track.
The Trainli bender will go over rail clamps and we suggest that the longer clamp be used when bending and split jaw for one mfg makes both a double long brass and stainless clamp.
Been having fun on a bender… I mean with the bender. The rail bender, that is.
Okay, then. Here’s a few observations:
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Re-bending the 9’ curves into 20’ curves seems to work best in pairs (joining two together at a time- textbook definition of pairs, I guess). I can bend three or more joined together, but the ties and joints (with rail clamps) start to fight one another.
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Bending really large pieces of straight flex track is totally doable. I’ve been bending 12’ lengths of AML flex track into 20’ and larger diameter curves (up to 28’ diameter curves) with absolutely no problem. In fact, I think my next plan is to straighten my remaining sectional curve track and use it as straights. The ends are already drilled and tapped for Aristo track joiners. Then just use the large 12’ length (two 6’ joined together) pieces of AML to do the remainder of the curves.
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I found it necessary to remove all the screws from the 9’ diameter curves in order to re-bend them into 20’ diameter curves. Leaving one screw per rail caused some binding of the ties (Hey, isn’t that a Springsteen tune? No wait… that’s “The Ties That Bind”). Perhaps it is possible to leave a screw in each rail if you initially start with a larger diameter.
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When bending curves, the type of clamp used to hold two sections together doesn’t seem to matter (for me, anyway). I use what I have on hand. So far I’ve had success with: Hillman, Split Jaw, and generic eBay clamps. I only own the two screw versions of these clamps (no 4 screw). I have had complete success with all of them. As noted earlier, I am using an Aristocraft Dual Rail Bender and I am bending/re-bending rail into some larger diameters. So, your mileage may vary.
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Bending rail is addictive. I wish I had all flex track right from the start. Sectional track is quicker, but this is freakin’ fun! I can bend what I want, when I want, how I want, where I want… “Want, want, want…” That’s the problem with kids these days. The instant gratification generation. You want to know what their problem is? I’ll tell you what it is… These kids haven’t spent any quality time with a dual rail bender. That’s the problem.
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There is no “5.” That’s right. I totally skipped “5” and jumped right to “6.” Let’s face it, you were so excited about reading the next entry that you totally missed the fact that there is no “5.” You’re smiling right now.
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You realize that I also skipped 8. You’re becoming cautious and reading the list very carefully, now. Checking each and every number to make sure I don’t fool you again. But, it’s too late. I’ve already got you a second time. That’s right. While you were being so overly cautious re-reading the numbers on the list, I tied your shoelaces together.
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Well, don’t you feel foolish. I know that you looked at your shoes to make sure I didn’t tie them together. Honestly, how could I have actually tied your shoelaces together. Heck, you’re probable not even wearing shoes. But you looked anyway. Go ahead, laugh at yourself.
-Kevin.
I have been a fan of flex track since my N scale days. you just have so much more flexibility. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)
So Kevin Devon are you going to put any track down to run trains? Hmmmmm
OK Dude of Diesels, or Kevin or whatever you are going by, its been almost a year, lets see some progress pictures or a train running would be better. it would be obvious a photoshop if it is a steam engine running around your layout
Why, who could ever forget the golden spike moment from August 7 of last year (2016)? I’ll tell ya who could. Pete Lassen could…
And then there was that unforgetable photo of the track cleaning diesel on the big black bridge the following week. Unforgetable by everyone. Everyone, I tell ya. Everyone except Pete Lassen.
And of course, the timeless beauty of a steamer, rounding maple curve on the Iron Island Railroad. A scene marveled at by all in the large scale community. Sure it’s an obvious photoshopped forgery. But, it’s not obvious to everyone. I mean there is probably someone who missed all of this progress last year. But I’m not going to mention any names, Pete Lassen.
Yep. It’s all documented right here…
http://largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/22149/iron-island-rr-take-two?page=1
Actually, Pete- its been raining here in Buffalo a lot this season. I wanted to get some more scenery done earlier in the season on the layout, but it was always wet back there. I was finally able to move 10 more yards of dirt to the layout yesterday. Keeps me in shape for bikini season (that reminds me, I need to shave my back). I’ve got the dirt piled up into two mountains. One with a tunnel and one for a waterfall. I’ll post some updates soon. In the meantime, the forcast calls for (you guessed it) more rain. Starting tomorrow. See, Buffalo is more than just chicken wings and snow. We have rain, too.
I actually had to start a “rainy day” project just to keep from going nuts. It’s here…
http://largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/26969/bachmann-1-29-standard-gauge-bobber-caboose
-Kevin.
The double (4 screw clamp) is stronger and only needed for stainless bending. Brass track bends much easier and a 2 screw clamp is all that is needed.
dieseldude . said:
Been having fun on a bender… I mean with the bender. The rail bender, that is.
I found it necessary to remove all the screws from the 9’ diameter curves in order to re-bend them into 20’ diameter curves. Leaving one screw per rail caused some binding of the ties (Hey, isn’t that a Springsteen tune? No wait… that’s “The Ties That Bind”). Perhaps it is possible to leave a screw in each rail if you initially start with a larger diameter.
When bending curves, the type of clamp used to hold two sections together doesn’t seem to matter (for me, anyway). I use what I have on hand. So far I’ve had success with: Hillman, Split Jaw, and generic eBay clamps. I only own the two screw versions of these clamps (no 4 screw). I have had complete success with all of them. As noted earlier, I am using an Aristocraft Dual Rail Bender and I am bending/re-bending rail into some larger diameters. So, your mileage may vary.
Kevin Dude, , did you have to cut the webs between ties like others suggested? I have an 8’diameter I want to make into at least a 10’ curve and was wondering if you cut some of the webs out. Maybe THAT was # 5 since it got left out. And yes I missed all of those important events and fell badly about it, So I beat myself about the head and shoulders until I saw( seen, Sean, realized) my errors. I know first open the home page to see if the Dude has posted anything and go straight to it to avoid my past mistake
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Pete Lassen said:
Kevin Dude, , did you have to cut the webs between ties like others suggested? I have an 8’diameter I want to make into at least a 10’ curve and was wondering if you cut some of the webs out. Maybe THAT was # 5 since it got left out.
Hey Pete- I didn’t have to cut any of the webs as others have. The track that I re-bent was all 9 foot diameter Aristocraft. It was all bent to 20 foot diameter. I’m not sure if other brands of track have the same types of webs, so your mileage may vary. You could always try a piece or two and see what happens.
Pete Lassen said:
And yes I missed all of those important events and fell badly about it, So I beat myself about the head and shoulders until I saw( seen, Sean, realized) my errors. I know first open the home page to see if the Dude has posted anything and go straight to it to avoid my past mistake
Remember: to err is human. To really fowl things up requires a computer.
-Kevin.
dieseldude . said:
Remember: to err is human. To really fowl things up requires a computer.-Kevin.
Foul
Those folks who claim they can bend spoons with telekinesis or whatever it is - any of them got the balls to take on code 332 brass rail?
332 brass is tough, but for a real challenge, they should try 332 stainless.
" Rooster " said:
dieseldude . said:
Remember: to err is human. To really fowl things up requires a computer.-Kevin.
Foul
Nah, Rooster, I think he got it right, the first time. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-innocent.gif)(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
