Just dip the tip of your “Driver” into crazy glue, mount the screw on the driver, wait a second or two, and the screw will not fall off, but when the screw is screwed in, the driver is easily removed…
Fred Mills. said:
Just dip the tip of your “Driver” into crazy glue, mount the screw on the driver, wait a second or two, and the screw will not fall off, but when the screw is screwed in, the driver is easily removed…
Hmm Crazy glue …is that next to the silly putty ?
Nope had enough of those little screw on USA track. I’m going all LGB. Believe it or not those little plastic tie bridges do a decent job holding the track together. I’m going to use a liberal dosing of electro-conductive grease on each joiner. It’s held up well before on my old outdoor layout so many moons ago.
BTW back when I did have some Aristo track, I would put a dab of the electro grease on the tip, stick the screw on that. Worked pretty good.
I use bees wax, naturally tacky. Makes a fine sticker oner.
What? What is this nonsense. This is starting to look like a professional job.
Dry run layout for the conduit work, this will soon be buried. I’m thinking of routing the main wiring thru the pieces, then gluing them together, then bury it. Read that its a lot easier if you can do that then burying the conduit, then fishing the wiring through.
I have done the same as you with my conduit. My making short, independent runs not over 30’, it’s easy to pull the wires and going further just means “daisy chaining” from segment to segment, so no single pull is too long.
Did this about 15 or 20 years ago and still servicable and can still change things out.
Greg
Thanks Greg, Yes the boxes are where the track supply feeders would branch off from the primary leads. the power-pack/receiver will sit on top of the post. I’m still determining whether to simply run exposed wire from the elbow underground up to the track, easier but more risky if the wire gets damaged, or to run to a smaller box next to the track then a short run to the track, which I will probably do.
My sweeps stick out of the ground, and I put a notch in the tubing to let the wires out and cover with a larger diameter cap.
In the picture below, you see 2 sweeps coming out next to each other, but with simple white caps on them, no wires had been run to this point at the time. The zip tie kept them aligned.
In the video below, at 1:20, you can see a large white cap on a conduit, between the 2 tracks, and just make out wires coming out too. This is simple and cheap. Originally I thought I was going to put junction boxes there, but they were too big and bulky and actually made it harder to run wires. To add a wire, I lift the cap and add the wire, there is a notch about 3/8" wide and down about 1/2", but the larger diameter cap (like 1-1/4 or so) allows the wires to fold over and has clearance between the inner diameter of the cap and the outer diameter of the conduit including the wires. The notch lets the cap sit down better.
So water does not get in, and the downwards angle of the wires is a “drip loop” so water cannot get in.
Smart on the conduit. I made no provisions to run water or electricity. I am kicking myself now. The electricity is no big deal since the solar experiment is working out but I sure wish I had buried water lines for hte drip system as I was back filling. No trying to run it will be a much bigger challenge. At least in the dirt sections.
tried to get youtube video to show, it shows if you are using http://
https:// version:
I’m looking forward to seeing this come together.
Devon Sinsley said:
Smart on the conduit. I made no provisions to run water or electricity. I am kicking myself now. The electricity is no big deal since the solar experiment is working out but I sure wish I had buried water lines for hte drip system as I was back filling. No trying to run it will be a much bigger challenge. At least in the dirt sections.
The 1/4" lines only need to be buried 4" or so, do it with a trowel. Lay them out in the sun so it’s flexible and limp, before the burial. Be sure to make square cuts. Use a T for risers… anything else you already know?(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Vic,
If you answered me I missed it. Are you planning on keeping to your compressed set of standards like those used on your pizzas. Will this be a gigantic version of this
or now that you have the room are you going to somewhat un-compress your standards? I know the track plan is less tight but are you going to model scenery in pizza fashion or more prototypical. I could see you going both ways.
John Caughey said:
Devon Sinsley said:
Smart on the conduit. I made no provisions to run water or electricity. I am kicking myself now. The electricity is no big deal since the solar experiment is working out but I sure wish I had buried water lines for hte drip system as I was back filling. No trying to run it will be a much bigger challenge. At least in the dirt sections.
The 1/4" lines only need to be buried 4" or so, do it with a trowel. Lay them out in the sun so it’s flexible and limp, before the burial. Be sure to make square cuts. Use a T for risers… anything else you already know?(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
John I have to do some major re graveling again this year. As was expected with that much piled dirt it is settling. Fortunately I built on a ladder so the track is staying but but its becoming an ariel tram instead of a RR. So I plan to dig in the water line before doing the gravel work and then when I add the new gravel it will be nice and buried and clean. Just would have been way easier had I thought that through first and did it at back fill.
Devon Sinsley said:
Vic,
If you answered me I missed it. Are you planning on keeping to your compressed set of standards like those used on your pizzas. Will this be a gigantic version of this
or now that you have the room are you going to somewhat un-compress your standards? I know the track plan is less tight but are you going to model scenery in pizza fashion or more prototypical. I could see you going both ways.
There will be some compression, there’s no way around that, but I’m playing it by ear right now. More concerned with getting the track down and wired. Once thats done I can begin thinking about scenery.
(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
fair enough
Hopefully you get it up and running long before Devon got his running … (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
Sean McGillicuddy said:
Hopefully you get it up and running long before Devon got his running … (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
Be nice.
Devon Sinsley said:
Sean McGillicuddy said:
Hopefully you get it up and running long before Devon got his running … (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
Be nice.
Greg Elmassian said:
My sweeps stick out of the ground, and I put a notch in the tubing to let the wires out and cover with a larger diameter cap.
In the picture below, you see 2 sweeps coming out next to each other, but with simple white caps on them, no wires had been run to this point at the time. The zip tie kept them aligned.
In the video below, at 1:20, you can see a large white cap on a conduit, between the 2 tracks, and just make out wires coming out too. This is simple and cheap. Originally I thought I was going to put junction boxes there, but they were too big and bulky and actually made it harder to run wires. To add a wire, I lift the cap and add the wire, there is a notch about 3/8" wide and down about 1/2", but the larger diameter cap (like 1-1/4 or so) allows the wires to fold over and has clearance between the inner diameter of the cap and the outer diameter of the conduit including the wires. The notch lets the cap sit down better.
So water does not get in, and the downwards angle of the wires is a “drip loop” so water cannot get in.
Try this…