Large Scale Central

big power supply help increasing amps

Jim Weingart said:

Thank you, I will be sure to check that

Greg, Yes it looks like that, can’t believe how lite weight it is.

The computer industry fueled advances in power supply design. What used to take big heavy transformers is now be done with fast heavy duty transistors and some support components. Other than the case, the heat sink is probably the heaviest component in a switching supply.

The case is heavier than the heat sink, case made of steel, heat sink aluminum :wink:

Yep switching power supplies smaller, lower cost, lighter… of course you can still buy a boat anchor with the old technology, if you want to pay $500 for a bridgeworks…

Greg

Greg,

Thirty years back I bought a very large one out of a substantial size 'puter. My buddies used to tease me that it was large enough to power half of the Toronto Transit System. Would have made a good anchor for a good size boat.

Daktah John said:

Jim Weingart said:

Thank you, I will be sure to check that

Greg, Yes it looks like that, can’t believe how lite weight it is.

The computer industry fueled advances in power supply design. What used to take big heavy transformers is now be done with fast heavy duty transistors and some support components. Other than the case, the heat sink is probably the heaviest component in a switching supply.

Yep, I just bought a new 650w supply for my PC (Got a new video card and it needed more power). Specs say it can produce 52A at 12v. Cost me a bit over $70.

Greg Elmassian said:

The case is heavier than the heat sink, case made of steel, heat sink aluminum :wink:

I think I said that…

Other than the case, the heat sink is probably the heaviest component

Hey John
Other than the case, the heat sink is probably the heaviest component :wink:

So the case is where most of the weight comes from? Huh.

so now I have prepare the control box, I would like to be able to have the option of both aristocraft train engineer remote and also have a control, I have three Aristo-Craft 55470 DC Train Engineer Wireless, one stopped working, actually I’m not sure if it did to start with, does anyone know What I should look for when open it up, and or should I send it somewhere.

The 27mhz (Black hand held) transmitter is prone to the battery connectors breaking. coming loose from the circuit board.

Does the led light up when buttons are pressed?

I have had 2 of these with bad microswitches and had to replace all of them on one transmiter.

Another would not link unless I placed the power source far away from the receiver, a known issue with this unit.

And different transmitters link differently with different receivers. there are at least 4 different transmitters and 4 different receivers.

the recieve ligt dont light up. that’s what i get from buying from ebay, there i said. I’m surre it is something simple however for me to figure may be a litt more then simpla.

Simple checks first.
Batteries new?
Battery contacts clean?
Battery Holders not broken( I have soldered them and stuffed foam to help hold shape.)
Light working on handheld?
Let us know how your doing.
Sean

Sorry Guys, I’m referring to the black box receiver portion of the aristocraft train engineer wireless no light comes. the others do. what should I look for before opening the unit

No green light when you press the link button?
Is the red power light lit up?
Could just be the 10amp fuse .

this is the unit without the outside ten amp fuse
Has track 1 or track 2

Gentlemen, This new power supply is awesome, I got everything hooked up this morning and was so impressed I forgot to video the results but will tomorrow. Just using two receivers instead of three for the moment. nice speed nice power and yes need to be careful , also train derailed once and there was no issues with amps shorts, (praise be ) . It’s nice to live in southern Arizona this time of year

The 2 track receiver does have an add on option for controlling some features and Star hobby had several of these.

Aristo memo on programming the old Xmitr/rcvr:

Aristo-Craft Trains Internet Depot TECH SUPPORT
Linking your Train Engineer Transmitter to the Receiver
This sheet will teach you how to program your ART-5470 Remote Control Train Engineer System for successful control of your trains.
This is achieved by “linking” your hand-held transmitter / throttle to the receiver.
With the Train Engineer system, you can control two separate tracks on your layout from one transmitter!
Please read further down for more information about how to do this.
HOW TO LINK
First, on your transmitter, select track #1 or #2 position.
Then, simultaneously press the A & B buttons.
A flashing light will appear on the transmitter.
Continue holding for 5 seconds.
Then, release the A & B pads.
WITHIN 10 SECONDS…
Simultaneously press the FAST pad on the Transmitter (* please see Notes) and the CODE SET button on the Receiver,
until the green flashing light appears on the Receiver. Continue holding for another 5 seconds. You are now linked. You may release both key/buttons and begin operation of your trains.
NOTES

  1. Any of the function pads on the Transmitter may be used to link the Transmitter to the Receiver, ie:
    A. Track #1, Fast and Code Set.
    B. Track #1, Slow and Code Set.
    C. Track #1, FWD and Code Set and so, on and so on all the way up to the E button.
    This also applies to programming the Train Engineer in the track #2 position.
  2. If your train requires more than 3 amps, it is highly recommended that you purchase a 12V cooling fan to attach to the receiver.

Not to derail Jim, but our family has a bed and breakfast 2 blocks from the University in Tucson, so maybe when we visit I can swing by, and bring my soldering iron ha ha!

Greg

Gentlemen and all my other Crazy Train friends, are crazy ? sometimes, I have to admit all of the things you hear about suggestions, comments and other helpful tips regarding Garden Railroads, is SO TRUE. any new person to Large SCALE LISTEN to what others have experienced. Here’s the new one. Wireless receiver I am working on due to it not working, I am totally surprised why Aristo-Craft actually put the fuse inside the unit where you cannot easily remove it or look at to see if the fuse is actually BLOWN how in the He_ L do removed the circuit board or don’t you, GUYS PLEASE HELP!!! it probably is just the fuse… Also any tips for putting Kadee Couplers on a Lionel GP 20

Jim, please feel free to start a new thread: “help kadees on Lionel GP20”… best to keep ideas on separate threads, and start it in the rolling stock forum…

keeping separate tasks on separate threads will help… with 23 posts, you are no longer a newbie ha ha!

Start making new topics! go for it!

Regards, Greg