Not saying don’t do it, but it has the same results.
Most switches can be made to work well but you do need clean track if you are running an 0-4-0, especially if it’s one with really crappy wheels like an Aristo.
Greg
Another thought in favor of a cap.
If you are doing “switching,” you are in all probability running at a low speed, at a lower voltage. So the cap doesn’t have much charge on it and will discharge what is has almost instantaneously.
But when you are running around the pike at a higher speed and come upon turnouts, the cap has a higher voltage on it and holds it’s charge that much longer before it runs out of steam.
As for special wiring, Dave Bodnar shows how to wire this up with a couple diodes to route current. But, it need not even be that complicated.
IIRC, Dave’s wiring adds a couple diodes, but lets you take full advantage of the capacitance of each cap whereas, you can simply take two electrolytic caps (35 volts or more) and wire then back-to-back across the motor windings. This however reduces the capacitance by half. If you put a switch in series with the two caps, you can even turn this feature off.