Large Scale Central

Basic coupler "how to." Useful?

General Discussion
#21

Bob McCown said:
We run into the coupler height issue here when the gang comes over and operates. Everyone has their own ‘standard’, which may or may not line up over various bits of track. I know Ken has some issues on a few sections of track here. Pondering making idler cars with my standard on one end, and ken/bruce/etc on the other, so they can run with it on their train.

Hmmm … I find a KD coupler height gauge very handy!

(http:///P1/Couplers01_s.jpg)

BTW that is one of my experiments: body mounting KDs on the longish RhB flatcars. Using a compound swing to negotiate the substandard 4ft rad in one curve at Samedan. So far, so good.

(http:///P1/Couplers03_s.jpg)

Oh, that piece of steel rail for shelf mounting? One way to get a sturdy “center sill”

#22
Hans-Joerg Mueller said:
Bob McCown said:
We run into the coupler height issue here when the gang comes over and operates. Everyone has their own 'standard', which may or may not line up over various bits of track. I know Ken has some issues on a few sections of track here. Pondering making idler cars with my standard on one end, and ken/bruce/etc on the other, so they can run with it on their train.
Hmmm .... I find a KD coupler height gauge very handy!
Which only works when everyone is using the same standard!
#23
Bob McCown said:
Hans-Joerg Mueller said:
Bob McCown said:
We run into the coupler height issue here when the gang comes over and operates. Everyone has their own 'standard', which may or may not line up over various bits of track. I know Ken has some issues on a few sections of track here. Pondering making idler cars with my standard on one end, and ken/bruce/etc on the other, so they can run with it on their train.
Hmmm .... I find a KD coupler height gauge very handy!
Which only works when everyone is using the same standard!
And the same size couplers.

The 820 Kadees I use are smaller (about half the size) than Bob’s and Bruce’s AMS couplers and come apart because of the size difference. I’ve since added the larger 906 Kadee’s to my engines which are closer in size to the AMS couplers and should work with both since they’re about in between. The 820’s were the standard that the OVGRS was using so I went with that, since I run up there every year.

But, hey, the paper clips work pretty good…:wink:

#24

Hey Steve,

Nice article!! I have been using Kadee 830 body mounted couplers for years. The only time I’ve ever had a problem is when someone comes over to run and hasn’t used a Kadee height gage for setting the coupler height on their cars. Doesn’t make any difference whether gauge #1 or G scale.

Only suggestion I would have is to make sure you have the wheel set you want on your car before installing the Kadee’s. Replacing plastic wheels with metal wheels can change the height if you don’t get the right ones.

Your article could help those who haven’t made the change to Kadee’s easy to do so now.

Chuck

#25

Hi, guys…

Thinking about Wayne’s very good comment, I realize that a “how-to” article shouldn’t encourage sloppy workmanship, even indirectly. I’ve modified my original pdf to remove all references to how much “error” is acceptable. Here’s the new link, if you want to see the changes:

http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/dawgnabbit/Couplers/couplerconv3.pdf

Seems like I learn something new every time I follow a discussion like this. Thanks to all of you.

Steve

Edit: Rev 3 pdf

#26

Opened for me using Firefox with windows XP

Good article even a novice like me could follow it

#27

I worry about one thing–the image of a saw being taken to an LGB car may be too graphic for some. Maybe a “collector discretion advised” disclaimer off the top? :wink:

Nice article. I love the block of wood as a height gauge for marking the height of the pad. Simple and elegant.

Later,

K

#28

Very nice article Steve!

Kevin Strong said:
I worry about one thing--the image of a saw being taken to an LGB car may be too graphic for some. Maybe a "collector discretion advised" disclaimer off the top? ;)
Kevin, as a matter of coincidence I cut a LGB boxcar exactly like one in the article the other day! Lengthened and detailed now.

Alec

#29
Kevin Strong said:
...the image of a saw being taken to an LGB car may be too graphic for some...
I find that committing a little sacrilege once in a while is good for the spirit... :) :) :P

Steve

#30
Steve Seitel said:
Kevin Strong said:
...the image of a saw being taken to an LGB car may be too graphic for some...
I find that committing a little sacrilege once in a while is good for the spirit... :) :) :P

Steve


Steve, Steve, Steve, tell the truth. :), :P, :)=)

#31

Mounting the couplers as per the article is OK if your curves are 8 (R3) dia or better.
I did exactly the same as the article years ago when I ran on 6’ dia in my basement. The wheel flanges rub against the coupler sides.
Those two little mounting holes on each side of the coupler need to be removed, and on some rolling stock, a notch was needed on the coupler for the flange to enter.
After I did that, 6’ Dia curves (R2) worked well.

#32

The flanges do indeed strike the coupler box, restricting minimum radius, John. Since the article is aimed at novices, perhaps I should add a warning to the effect that larger radii will be required. I’m glad to know how much larger it needs to be. Thanks for pointing it out.

Steve