Large Scale Central

Bachmann C-19 opinions please

Modeling Motive Power
#21

Daktah John said:

David Maynard said:

Or buy both, combine the tender with the locomotive you want, and then sell off the other locomotive/tender set. “You know, its rare, since Bachmann didn’t make this version. I can let you have this one of a kind combination for the low, one time only price of…” (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

Sure, no problem. You want to lend me the cash for #2?

Yea, sure, if I do that then you will just consider it sold to me, once you mix and match to get what you want. And while I wouldn’t mind having another locomotive, my mom would probably evict my sorry butt.

#22

Was hoping a review of the paint schemes of my Fn3 loco roster would help make the decision, but no. Half are all black and the other half have red windows and white trim. So I guess it’s down to domes. I’m leaning toward I went with the more modern round domes. Gotta make a decision (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif)

#23

Here are some ideas,

Baldwin Styles: Reference Illustrations.

By David Fletcher.

The following illustrations Represent Baldwin Locomotives delivered around the globe and have been sorted by their “Style Number” for ease of reference. Many of the styles as they are listed below have simplified descriptions ignoring specific notations applied to each order.

http://www.pacificng.com/template.php?page=/ref/locobuilders/blw/style/stylediag/index.htm

I’m partial to this one

http://www.pacificng.com/ref/locobuilders/blw/style/stylediag/S219-CairnsMulgrave-B13-4-6-0.png

A paint-modified Big Hauler based on that and on PRR, “based on” kind of like how a movie is ‘based on’ a book.

Anyway, it suits my taste in esthetics, your mileage may vary.

#24

Something to note on an all black steamer in clean and shiny condition is how gloss finish on boiler jacket will reflect blue of sky - a bit of blue glaze very lightly airbrushed on the 10 and 2 o.clock positions of boiler tube can add a bit of visual interest that people may not consciously realize they are seeing.

Real life illustrations: chosen for being a bit exaggerated compared to what I’d actually do on a model - they illustrate the concept.
http://www.railpictures.net/photo/590547/

http://www.railpictures.net/photo/604930/

#25

The old steamers, with Russian iron boiler jackets, actually had a sheen, a tinge of colour, to the black iron. Since graphite was impregnated into the iron, and glazed, the colour depended on the purity, or impurities, in the graphite. Many had a blue sheen, but greens and brown were also common.

#26

Daktah John said:

Was hoping a review of the paint schemes of my Fn3 loco roster would help make the decision, but no. Half are all black and the other half have red windows and white trim. So I guess it’s down to domes. I’m leaning toward I went with the more modern round domes. Gotta make a decision (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif)

Nicholas Smith is where I got mine last year for $595. And I wasn’t too particular about how it was lettered since that can easily be changed. I didn’t see any this year for under $600. $625 I think was the cheapest.

#27

Daktah John said:

Thanks Boomer. I’ve been watching some of those. Will probably pull the trigger tonight.

Just need to decide between the two un-lettered versions. I like both the round domes and the short tender; features not found on one model, so I need to decide which is the ruling feature.

My problem is that I want EBT #7, a C-19 sold to the East Broad Top. It had the old-style domes, old-style headlight, and a smaller tender. The only Bachmann version with the domes and tender is the bumble-bee, and I can’t see painting the whole thing (frame and all) to get the right domes and headlight - and it has 2 airpumps. The RGS #40 version has the headlight, 1 old dome (and a new one) plus only one airpump, so it is close. But how do I get a smaller tender? My live steam #7 uses the C-16 old-time tender (pic below.)

#28

Ken Brunt said:

Daktah John said:

Was hoping a review of the paint schemes of my Fn3 loco roster would help make the decision, but no. Half are all black and the other half have red windows and white trim. So I guess it’s down to domes. I’m leaning toward I went with the more modern round domes. Gotta make a decision (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif)

Nicholas Smith is where I got mine last year for $595. And I wasn’t too particular about how it was lettered since that can easily be changed. I didn’t see any this year for under $600. $625 I think was the cheapest.

I paid $607 delivered from Al Kramer on eBay. He says when these are gone the replacements are going to cost $100 more so I jumped. Hope to have battery, R/C and sound installed for KOps. Not sure it will be lettered, but I will try.

#29

Pete Thornton said:

Daktah John said:

Thanks Boomer. I’ve been watching some of those. Will probably pull the trigger tonight.

Just need to decide between the two un-lettered versions. I like both the round domes and the short tender; features not found on one model, so I need to decide which is the ruling feature.

My problem is that I want EBT #7, a C-19 sold to the East Broad Top. It had the old-style domes, old-style headlight, and a smaller tender. The only Bachmann version with the domes and tender is the bumble-bee, and I can’t see painting the whole thing (frame and all) to get the right domes and headlight - and it has 2 airpumps. The RGS #40 version has the headlight, 1 old dome (and a new one) plus only one airpump, so it is close. But how do I get a smaller tender? My live steam #7 uses the C-16 old-time tender (pic below.)

Pete -

If you go with the short tender version it will be close without having to paint. It is all black, has old style domes and short tender. It does, as you point out, have two air pumps and you will have to change out the headlight - perhaps more that I’m not aware of. To get the EBT look is going to take some bashing.

#30

Rumor has it that the big brown truck stopped at my house today with a package from Al Kramer. I haven’t ordered batteries yet so I may have to set something up temporary to run at Ken’s.

Now I have two new challenges; 1) Getting a Phoenix sound card, RailBoss ESC, Receiver and Batteries all installed before Ken’s weekend. 2) Coming up with a backstory as to how the C.V.S.Ry. acquired this locomotive. I heard in passing that Knott’s Berry Farm has the prototype. They were my “source” for RGS Caboose 402. Need to look at which version C19 they have.

EDIT TO UPDATE: Knott’s has RGS 41 which looks like it will do as the source for C.V.S.Ry. #8 (It’s #8 because I have a Badlwin number plate pin in #8 to use)

#31

Daktah John said:

Rumor has it that the big brown truck stopped at my house today with a package from Al Kramer. I haven’t ordered batteries yet so I may have to set something up temporary to run at Ken’s.

Now I have two new challenges; 1) Getting a Phoenix sound card, RailBoss ESC, Receiver and Batteries all installed before Ken’s weekend. 2) Coming up with a backstory as to how the C.V.S.Ry. acquired this locomotive. I heard something in passing the Knott’s Berry Farm has the prototype. They were my “source” for RGS Caboose 402. Need to look at which version C19 they have.

KBF has two C-19’s…#40 and #340. #40 was just recently re-built and is now running again. Both are beautiful locomotives!

#32

I guess I need to do some more research. #340 also wore #41 at some point? I find lots of pictures of a #41 at KBF.

#33

John,

Check out these posts on battery/RC installations in the C-19. It includes a brief description of how I did mine using the same components you are planning to use.

http://largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/25396/battery-for-bachmann-c-19?page=1

Doc Watson

#34

Pete Thornton said:

Daktah John said:

Thanks Boomer. I’ve been watching some of those. Will probably pull the trigger tonight.

Just need to decide between the two un-lettered versions. I like both the round domes and the short tender; features not found on one model, so I need to decide which is the ruling feature.

My problem is that I want EBT #7, a C-19 sold to the East Broad Top. It had the old-style domes, old-style headlight, and a smaller tender. The only Bachmann version with the domes and tender is the bumble-bee, and I can’t see painting the whole thing (frame and all) to get the right domes and headlight - and it has 2 airpumps. The RGS #40 version has the headlight, 1 old dome (and a new one) plus only one airpump, so it is close. But how do I get a smaller tender? My live steam #7 uses the C-16 old-time tender (pic below.)

My advice is to get the one closest with headlight, air pumps and tender. Its easy to switch the domes and I suspect others would trade domes.

Stan

#35

Daktah John said:

I guess I need to do some more research. #340 also wore #41 at some point? I find lots of pictures of a #41 at KBF.

Knotts has two C-19s RGS 41 and D&RGW 340.

Stan

#36

Stan Ames said:

Daktah John said:

I guess I need to do some more research. #340 also wore #41 at some point? I find lots of pictures of a #41 at KBF.

Knotts has two C-19s RGS 41 and D&RGW 340.

Stan

Makes sense based on the pictures I find. So, Gary’s comment above about #40 was a typo - he meant #41?

#37

Pete Thornton said:

…But how do I get a smaller tender? My live steam #7 uses the C-16 old-time tender (pic below.)

Pete, just scratchbuild the tender. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)It’s easy, I promise! (And, no, you may not remind me the reason my Bachmann C-19-based TRR #5 is not a second version of EBT #7 is that I didn’t want to screw around with scratchbuilding a second tender. Well, that, and I’d want to do the “as-delivered” version but the striping and decal work would kill me.)

In all seriousness, the B’mann C-19 is arguably in the very top tier of large scale locomotives in terms of reliability and detail. It’s become my “go-to” loco when I need trouble-free operation for open houses. My EBT #7 is built on a famously smooth and bulletproof Barry’s Big Trains custom chassis. The C-19 drive is every bit as smooth and reliable. (And geared pretty much the same. I double-head the two locos at shows.) Mine’s currently running with a Revolution/Phoenix combination (which works great, though with the Revolution, you must jumper the battery power forward to the loco for its internal electronics because the Revo does not), but I’m thinking about changing that out to do a TCS WowSound or Tsunami2 decoder instead, and moving the speaker from the tender to the smokebox like I did with my K-27. That’ll likely require gutting the stock electronics, which I’m fine with. I accidentally nuked the optical chuff circuit anyway.

If anyone is thinking about adding one of these to their rosters, I’d highly recommend them!

Later,

K

#38

Daktah John said:

Stan Ames said:

Daktah John said:

I guess I need to do some more research. #340 also wore #41 at some point? I find lots of pictures of a #41 at KBF.

Knotts has two C-19s RGS 41 and D&RGW 340.

Stan

Makes sense based on the pictures I find. So, Gary’s comment above about #40 was a typo - he meant #41?

It was :)…

I personally own an Accucraft C-19, #346 with the green boiler and the Moffet logo. Also has the “weird” sand dome which was added after the accident on Kenosha Pass in 1936. Runaway locomotive.

#39

Now that I’ve had my new C-19 for a few days I must agree with every opinion presented here. It is a beautifully detailed locomotive that runs like a Swiss watch. Once I had a grasp of the electronics, a non plug-n-play sound and R/C installation was simple leaving all of the stock electronics in place. I ran her on my outdoor track that has had no spring maintenance done. Not a single derailment on much less than perfect track. I am a happy camper!

First trials handling a road train were run today. I started out with a train longer than I ever run to see how she would handle the grades. No problem getting 8 cars up the straight 3.5-4% climb to Wall…

She slipped going into the turn, which is still up-grade, so I dropped the caboose. The loco handled the remaining 7 as far as Northville where I had to drop one more because my Wye tail will only accommodate 6 cars. Shoving up the curving grade to Deep Cut was a problem with 6 cars. I was running out of time so I gave it a little help starting after which it handled the grade fine. The balance of pictures were taken on the down grade return trip after turning on the Wye and picking up the car dropped at Northville. Here she is passing the Rust Garden approaching Indian Hill Junction…

You will notice the stock number plate missing in this shot on the Indian Hill Bridge. I removed it in preparation for mounting a brass Baldwin number plate that has been waiting for a loco to ride on…

Coming back around Coal Dump Curve approaching Wall. This would be a great shot when the number plate is on and Photoshop out the house across the street…

A little further down the hill and tighter in…

At the site of Wall Station. I did notice that the appliances on the Steam Dome look awfully big, especially compared to the Shay and the original outside frame Connie. I don’t know if these are oversize or, more likely, the ones on the other locos are too small…

And finally, a little longer shot at Wall…

When lettering is complete, this will be C.V.S.Ry. #8. It is already ‘broken’ in. Those fancy pipes on the tender hang down too low for my cement walkway crossing and one got snapped off. Oh well (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif)

Not only do I need to get it lettered, I need to build a travel carrier. No way I want to disconnect those tender plugs any more than needed for maintenance. And speaking of the tender connection, how the heck do you get the pin into the close couple hole on the draw bar? The draw bar slams into the brake hanger when trying to do so. I didn’t spend much time with it, but a quick attempt to get the draw bar to slide over the top of the brake hanger didn’t fly.

#40

And speaking of the tender connection, how the heck do you get the pin into the close couple hole on the draw bar? The draw bar slams into the brake hanger when trying to do so. I didn’t spend much time with it, but a quick attempt to get the draw bar to slide over the top of the brake hanger didn’t fly.

With a bit of persistence and patience. The brake rigging will flex a little.