Greg, I would use it for the use that I stated, to put in rail clamps to keep water and gunk out of them to preserve conduction through the clamps.
Yep, that’s the one safe application I can think of 
I’ve found though that just keeping moisture and oxygen out of the joint will do just as well… 10 year test with nothing, moly grease, anti-sieze, lgb “conductive grease”, and about 5 years with Ideal No-alox…
No significant differences, the anti sieze was better on stainless steel screws in stainless clamps though, with the Ideal No-alox a good second.
Greg
David Marconi,FOGCH said:
So after reading through three times and still not coming up with a direct answer. I need to ask if Aristo-Electralube is conductive or not and will it work if used in rail joints where track power is the norm ? Do you have a definitive answer on this or do I use the Silver conductive grease mentioned on your vignette Ted. Thank you for an answer
Sorry for the late reply,
From what I measured, Electralube does conduct, and work on rail joints beneficial for track power users, but it won’t conduct as good as a gold or silver based lubricant that cost notably more money.
-Ted
Ted yes, but once the clamp is tight, the thickness of the lube isn’t much, so even if its not a great conductor, its shouldn’t introduce too much resistance into the circuit. And I would think that much of the contact surface between clamp and rail is metal on metal, because the lube was squeezed out.
In the copier world, we used a dialectic grease on the rotating contacts for the drum blanket (heater). That stuff wasn’t a great conductor neither, but its real job was to prevent corrosion on the contacts to maintain conductivity. I suspect the same can be said about the Aristo crap, ah, grease.
Right that is the key, no matter what you think, there is enough metal to metal contact to conduct, even if you have smeared all the contact surfaces with a dielectric grease (non conducting).
So, in most cases a conducting grease is not needed. LGB “conductive grease” is not conductive, in the least, and has worked well in rail joiners for decades. It’s the oxygen in the air that creates oxidation, and some other liquids or chemicals can cause corrosion.
Greg
Something to keep in mind as to sufficient metal to metal contact is the type of rail joiners used. For example, Split Jaws have Allen head screws that can make for a good & tight connection, but some joiners like Aristo’s slide on types are very loose unless the 2mm screws are used to tighten them at both ends, including at the mating track that some folks may neglect to use any screws. Yet other slide on type joiners have no screws and rely on just the spring action to make contact. That’s why some folks solder a jumper wire at the base of the mating tracks’ rails for track power users.
-Ted
In HO the joiners spring tension, actually compression, is how they make good contact and transfer power. But we all know that can eventually fail. and that is why I used to recommend to newbies in the smaller scales, that they put feeder wires on every other, or every third section of rail. That way both joiners, at both ends of rail without a feeder, would have to fail to create a dead spot. On my outdoor set up, every piece of rail, except the switches, and the rail on the long bridge, have feeder wires attached to them. Kind of a belt AND suspenders kinda of thing.
I was lucky to buy these, look closely, they crimp a joiner while on the rail… makes better contact at the foot of the rail.
The guy who made these is no longer around, but I would asume a guy with a mill could do this to a pair of pliers.
Greg, I think it would be worth it to buy a cheap set of pliers and using just a Dremel type tool to grind your own profiles into the jaws. I may try that and see how well I can do it.
Would be pretty hard to free-hand it I would think, but cheap to try!
Greg