Well alrighty then, should the glue fix fail, use a file or coarse sand paper to give the axle some tooth if it’s not knurled and reglue. If it is, then the inside of the gear hole should be roughed up for toothiness and reglued.
Thanks Roos, I am aware of his story. I took HO trucks in my pockets to school, I liked compressing the springs as I rolled them inside my desk…(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif) Oh to be 10 again!
Glue, or my favorite, JB Quick, wont hold if the parts are greasy. So I would see if I could pull the axle out of the plastic part, degrease the parts, then dry them real good before roughing up the axle end a bit and reassembling with some JB Quick, making sure to get the wheel assembly into proper gauge.
Umm… the gear and the parts the axles go into is a SINGLE casting… the gear CANNOT spin on the casting since it is one piece.
Does your axle look different (apart from the ball bearings and undamaged gear)
2 things can happen, an axle can spin inside the plastic casting (which may or may not be split)
OR
due to other factors, the gear is ground down/damaged… sounds like that is at least the final situation with your motor block, maybe not the initial problem or cause.
Greg
I understood that the whole plastic assembly is spinning on the axle… and I said to rough or drill the axle …
to quote myself: “, use a file or coarse sand paper to give the axle some tooth”
Yeah, I interpreted it as you did John, but put the caveat in there in case it’s something I have not seen.
I don’t remember what the axles look like when pulled out. Drilling and pinning would absolutely work in my estimation.
On another forum he describes even more and it appears that the teeth may be ground off one of the axles…
Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
Umm… the gear and the parts the axles go into is a SINGLE casting… the gear CANNOT spin on the casting since it is one piece.
Does your axle look different (apart from the ball bearings and undamaged gear)
2 things can happen, an axle can spin inside the plastic casting (which may or may not be split)
OR
due to other factors, the gear is ground down/damaged… sounds like that is at least the final situation with your motor block, maybe not the initial problem or cause.
Greg
Ummm…can you say contradiction ?
John Caughey said:
I understood that the whole plastic assembly is spinning on the axle…
Exactly, as I did John. It appears that adding CA to the ends of the plastic assembly fixed the issue according to his posts. Now if one would take the time to re-read twice before posting as suggested by the experts all would be good.
…(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
I’ll try to clarify the situation.
At this point, these are the first style of blocks Aristo used. Wheels are pinned into the sideframes.
I glued the sleeve gear to the pinions on the one wheel and the motor-shaft, but now the other wheel set and it’s spiral-gear no longer makes a connection to the worm-gear. This is better than the earlier situation as that wheel is in neutral and will spin freely. The earlier issue had the first wheel locked in place and dragging.
I’m still not sure I understand what you are saying.
The old style have the ends of the axles running in bearing blocks in the sideframes, not really “pinned”
Where you say you glued the sleeve gear to the pinions, I assume you glued the metal half axles into the gear casting.
I’m also interpreting the “spiral gear” as the “worm” , but my current point of confusion is why is the worm not engaged to the worm gear? Also it would help to know if this is the fixed axle or the pivoting axle… the fixed axle gear is revealed when you open the motor block, the pivoting axle has it’s own little gearbox enclosure, also fed by a universal joint.
So, which axle is the one that is no longer engaged? is there worm gear damage?
Greg
Greg, thanks for the vocab help to describe the situation better.
The motorblocks on this FA are the old-style with the axles going into the side frame bearing box. This locomotive is dating back to the REA days of Polk’s foray into G scale trains
The sleeve I’m talking about is a plastic cuff with indentations for the pinions on the fixed axle. The shaft from the motor is metal, but the pinons on both motor shaft and wheel shaft are plastic. The cuff that connects them is also plastic. I glued that cuff to the two pinion parts and it is moving when power is supplied again. Before this, it would not rotate at all and was dragging while the other 3 axles were trying to push/pull based on location.
The floating axle then became inoperable as it appeared that the spiral gear at the axle itself had been worn down by the worm-gear on the motor shaft. Unfortunately, and stupidly, on my part, I did not photograph what I’m talking about. This wheel spins freely enough that it isn’t dragging or acting like an anchor when the engine is running.
That failure in the floating axle is common, unfortunately, often when it is subject to overload, like pulling the entire loco.
Do you have traction tires on any wheels? Those can make problems worse, when they “grab” and the loco is stalled for example.
Are the “cuffs” the extended part of the gear casting? I think you say pinons where I would say bushing or bearing.
Is what you are talking about in this picture?
By the way, the gear in the floating axle probably looks like this:
(without the ball bearings)
In the first picture, instead of the brass pinion assembly, mine has a plastic cuff.
There are are no traction tires on this engine.
The second picture is exactly like the floating axle’s gear, only that the teeth are about gone.
Here is a picture showing the internals of the old version Aristo motor block (with axle tips that go into the side frames)
This particular one had a detached motor wire that was fixed.
-Ted
Looks like my blocks except for plastic instead of that brass coupling. Thanks guys! Now to go source some new old ones.
New replacement ball bearing version motor blocks, now made by Bachmann, can be used if considering replacing the old Aristo version.
Bachmann uses them in their Eggliner (former Aristo-Craft product), and Individual Motor Blocks (part number, BAC 96275SP) have been available through RLD Hobbies.
For adapting the new version motor blocks, see “vignette” (article) hosted for me by Greg E. on his Web site, title:
“Upgrading Aristo-Craft Loco Motor Blocks from Sleeve to Ball Bearing”
Though the vignette shows an Aristo RS3, the same is done for other Aristo locos that use the same type motor block.
-Ted
So most people call that coupling a universal joint or drive although it is really 2 universal joint on a short shaft… so that is your pinon and the cuffs are parts of that assembly?
i finally understand what you are saying… with all the damaged parts, i would think you need a whole new motor block.
Greg
So most people call that coupling a universal joint or drive although it is really 2 universal joint on a short shaft… so that is your pinon and the cuffs are parts of that assembly?
i finally understand what you are saying… with all the damaged parts, i would think you need a whole new motor block.
Greg
It’ll do the job for now, but replacement is likely in the near future. This loco was my first diesel I acquired about 20 odd years ago. Thanks for the help, y’all. Mods can close this if they want.
Bill, no one “closes” threads, because they are a helpful reference to others, that is part of why people will ask a lot of questions, since someone surely will have a similar experience to yours.
The only time a thread is closed is for going beyond the rules, normally political or religious content or just bad manners.
Some people may have some replacement parts too if you ask, if you want to hold off buying new blocks.
Greg
Also, we don’t have moderators. We can’t afford them. (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)
