(https://www.largescalecentral.com/FileSharing/user_3033/Tom’s Stuff/hw_pullman_interior.jpg)
Keep trying to figure this posting stuff.
Tom
Pete Thornton said:
" Rooster " said:
Pete Thornton said:
I don’t know what’s rattling. I think it’s fairly large - maybe the serving counter or similar.
Open the end doors and shake it out
I could, but it can wait until I deal with the lighting and couplers.
I’m betting it’s the toilet !
" Rooster " said:
I’m betting it’s the toilet !
EXACTLY !
LMAO …Thank you !
This post has been edited by ROOSTER: the bottom picture posted is prototypically correct
I’m betting it’s the toilet !
Sorry - it’s clearly something bigger that you can see blocking several windows. I suspect it is the kitchen wall or counter. Could be the toilet as well?
Don’t be sorry. It’s not your fault that the Chinese didn’t glue the errant part properly.
David Maynard said:
Don’t be sorry. It’s not your fault that the Chinese didn’t glue the errant part properly.
I think this brand-new coach got a beating in transit from its last owner.
I got some 12V warm white LEDs from Amazon for $8, and they came with wires on each end, 2 connectors, and some small white plugs for interconnecting strips, which will be useful for some other project.
As they gave me all those connectors, I snipped off a piece about as long as the diner and connected the 9V battery. Looks very bright. I may cover every other LED, or maybe cut the strip and resolder it together but further spaced.
The diner hit the warkbench this weekend, and the trucks are off and lubricated. Coupler shanks will be shortened.
However, I couldn’t see the holes to access the screws holding the roof. Any suggestions for getting the roof off?
Greg Elmassian said:
Thank you - I had recalled your page so I looked at it (again) this morning. It didn’t actually tell me where the screws are, but gave enough clues. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)
It wasn’t what I recalled, but so be it. The roof is off. And it turned out to be the counter that was flopping around.
There was glue on only half of it. So now it is back in place with lots of glue. And despite the speculation, this car has no bathrooms! Just a sort of Butler’s Pantry at the open end.
I’m not planning to conver the lighting yet, as I want to get the couplers done on all 4 coaches so I can run them.
From my site:
"There are 4 screws that hold the roof to the body shell. Use a long shank #2 Philips driver.
It helps to have a magnetized driver, that way, you have a chance to pull the screws back up the holes. You have to “feel around” a bit for the screws. If the car you are working on has doors you can peek through them to see where you are. The new baggage and RPO cars do not have working end doors, as the body shell is different."
I’ve updated it to say they are at the ends… should be better. Thanks for the feedback!
Greg
From LSC site NOT MINE: I have not updated it but you can see the screws in some of the pictures that secure the roof in place. OH Wait! you got the roof off!
https://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/22514/cvrr-ocs?page=1
This post has been edited by : Rooster
As this thread is labelled “Diner Lighting” I will continue to add to it until I am finished with lighting. I figured it was worth installing the LED strips as I had the roof off. I just stuck them at a slight angle so I could solder the existing wires to the pads.
It worked fine with the 9V battery on the roof end connectors. ( The blue tape is to hide/dim some of the LEDs.) So I put the roof back on and tested the lights with the 9V on the truck wires. Nada. I had one theory that maybe, as the diner had LED table lamps, there was a bridge rectifier and I had my LED strips on the wrong polarity.
Then I recalled there is a switch underneath, so I turned that on. Still nuthin. I took the roof back off and tested the spring connectors on top of the body and there was power from the 9V still connected underneath - so I bent them up a bit and put the roof back on. This time the lights worked.
I also discovered there is no bridge rectifier - the LED’s only light up when the correct polarity is delivered by the track. As they won’t take more than 12V, and as I am installing a 9V battery, it doesn’t really matter, but I tagged the (+) anyway with tape to remind me.
Are you going to leave the blue tape ? Hmmm how long before it falls down …
Something does not add up Pete, you stated that the stock LED lighting only works in one polarity, i.e. one direction.
I’m sure this would have been reported if it was really the case.
If I remember, the full wave rectifier was pretty well hidden, and it was in the circuit board sandwiched in the floor.
It really has to be there for the units that came with LEDs. Perhaps you bypassed it during your wiring?
Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
Something does not add up Pete, you stated that the stock LED lighting only works in one polarity, i.e. one direction.
I’m sure this would have been reported if it was really the case.
If I remember, the full wave rectifier was pretty well hidden, and it was in the circuit board sandwiched in the floor.
It really has to be there for the units that came with LEDs. Perhaps you bypassed it during your wiring?
I must not have been clear. The LED lighting was mine, added in the roof, not the table lamps. The original/stock roof lighting, being incandescent, wouldn’t care about polarity. I’m sure there’s a rectifier for the table lamps, but I didn’t investigate, as it is reported they don’t come on until you give them 16V, which my 9V battery isn’t going to do. They certainly didn’t blink when I was testing.
One of these days, when I have all 4 cars with close couplers and a little spare time, I will revisit the tavble lamps and see what drives them. But as I pointed out to Jerry, any kind of lighting is wasted in bright Florida sunshine!
Sean McGillicuddy said:
Are you going to leave the blue tape ? Hmmm how long before it falls down …
Cynic. I believe it adheres more strongly the longer you leave it. In any case, it isn’t holding things together - there’s sticky on the back of the LED strips. It will just get more light in there, and the guy eating dinner will get a big blue thing on his head!
Sorry Pete, understand now… you could have used that rectifiers that are used by the the table leds for the main led lighting should you have wanted to use track power.
Greg
Pete Thornton said:
As this thread is labelled “Diner Lighting” I will continue to add to it until I am finished with lighting.
Yes …but YOU did ask how to remove the roof ?