Nice drawings and pictures. It sure looks like enough to go with.
Any idea of the color?
Have you thought about making your own figures yet? It would be great to model that engineer in the window.
I have an old bachman big hauler boxcar I could use–whatever scale the bachmann’s are in it seems long. I need to sort out the scale issue, no? Most of the stuff on my line is in 1:29, and I have a USA trains center cab switcher coming which will join the W&OD, but we have an odd mix of stuff and we’re “relaxed” about scale. I’m thinking maybe the bad old 1:24, then I could find dollhouse doors and etc… 1:20 would look too big and W&OD wasn’t narrow gauge. Wood-sided 1:32 rolling stock and parts are hard to come by.
USA’s wooden boxcars and reefers are in some oddball scale, aren’t they?
Any thoughts on scale? I’m a complete novice and have no idea how to proceed. I don’t even know how to figure scale. How long is 34.5 in 1:24? In 1:29? Maybe I should just pick a boxcar/reefer car and start from that?
Actually if I’m measuring correctly, (am I?)
34.5 feet =414 inches
at 1:29 that equals just about 14.25 inches
So this Bachmann boxcar is maybe too long at 15.25, and it seems low to me
USA trains wooden boxcars are listed on their website at 14/38th inches–very close
The old B’mann stuff is in the 1:22.5 area so I’d go with that. If your not all that worried about scale then I’d keep most of the boxcar as is and just do some cutting on the ends to resemble what 26 looked like. Cutting and shaping the ends will be the hardest part specially where the curved roof meets the front of the boxcar. Glueing some scribed styrene there , then shaping the roof curvature. The motor block will be the last thing you need and that’s a simple screw on thing.
For me, I’ve been moving into one scale, after starting out more relaxed about it. I’ve found that it was better to keep everything the same. The old stuff was donated to others who were in that scale.
So, for what it’s worth, I’d stick with 1:29. Changing to another scale isn’t necessary to build this and to me it would be more interesting to see how it compares to the other 1:29 stuff you already own.
For the boxcab I would suggest my favorite choice of powerbricks, the Aristo Centercab bricks, they are shorter wheelbase and would be more correct for the boxcab, which has short wheelbase trucks to begine with, those FA1 blocks are VERY big, and would be a better choice for the GE steeplecab
Thanks Victor, I can see your point–I was only looking at the detailing on the sideframes. I’ll need to get some scale measurements. And Ken, thanks for the help on priorities
Bruce, I think between you and my puttering I’ve talked myself into staying with 1:29.
Modeling the figure! Come on now! I’m still frightened of cutting the thing up.
But yes, dammit, that figure would look way cool. “Honey, do we have any sculpey?”
Batteries–I’m going to run it on batteries
Oh–and my eyewitness, Mr. Harwood, says it was black with white lettering. I may depart from that, not sure
Missed the center cab block. Sounds like it might be a better choice, and I bet you could get Victor to measure it for you. 
(http://www.aristocraft.com/catalog/parts/images/29356%20center%20cab%20motor%20block.jpg)
It LOOKS like the detail just screws on - so you could possibly make the sideframes look like the prototype if you like. You might want to think of ordering one of the scale rulers from these guys: http://www.thescalecard.com/ I have the 1:20 in both 6" and 2’ - yes, you can do the math and convert, but it’s nice to use one of these to measure parts. For batteries, I’ve recently started using the lithium-ion batteries. They’re small and hold a charge for quite some time. I make mine removable now in theory that I could run all day by just replacing the dead one with a newly charged one. Haven’t had to do that yet. I’ve been getting them from http://www.batteryspace.com/ but there are a number of other places. For the charger, I use the Maha 777 Plus2. It can charge NiMH, NiCd and Li-ion.
(http://www.thomas-distributing.com/maha-mh-c777plus-ii-battery%20charger_pics/mhc777plus_small.jpg)
Because the batteries are removable, I don’t need any special charging circuit. I use Mini Tamiya Connectors that I got from batteryspace.com.
For your viewing pleasure and considerations , here is a pic [ left to right ] with a centercab block , an Hartland block , a NWSL block , and a AC FA block
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/dennispaulson/DRy%20posting%20pics/power%20blocks.JPG)
and a side view , [ without the Hartland block ]
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/dennispaulson/DRy%20posting%20pics/power%20block%20side.JPG)
As Andy Clarke said …the Hartland truck side frames are as close as there is , out of the box .
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/dennispaulson/HLW%20CSSSB/HLW%20COACH34%20SIDE.JPG)
The Hartland Interurbans have one power block , like the line car . The Hartland RMC , [ rail motor car ] , have two power blocks
Ah, Mike, relax. The first cut is always the hardest. After that it gets easier and easier. Besides, between Bruce and the rest of the guys on here, they’ll give you plenty of guidance.
Thank you!
Now does anyone know if hartland sells just the power block and side frames?
OMG!!! tell me he didn’t cut that car there…
Sorry, just couldn’t pass that one up…
There are aways other cars!
I have plans for my 1.5 large scale Baldwin 1600 series (7.5" gauge) and I have been in the process of re-drawing them for 1/29.
mike omalley said:
Thank you!Now does anyone know if hartland sells just the power block and side frames?
Yes, they do - http://www.h-l-w.com/PartsPage.html
You might be able to find the Aristo center cab trucks at Star Hobby. I picked one up to a project there last year.
-Brian
Gary, if you ever get that plan done I’d be interesting in getting a copy
I went to Star Hobby and no aristo trucks but I did pick up a USA reefer car (on sale, 40 bucks) and a 1:29 scale ruler. The USA car scales out just about perfectly. But it’s so nicely detailed…tempted to just keep it and run it .
Nah. This weekend I might start marking it up for the saw
Mike,
You realize this is for a Baldwin Pacific Electric 1600 series, freight motor, right? I have it drawn in MasterCam, a high-end cad program. I’ll see if I can get it to you using a .pdf file. You will be able to read the drawing then. Just send me an e-mail and I can attach a file for you. I’m still working on the drawings, but it will give you an idea of what I’ve done.
Mike,
I do have a couple of files ready- a side view and front view. Just need an e-mail address and I’ll send them.
Well I made the first cuts for freight motor # 26
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/lownote/_forumfiles/26small.jpg)
And ruined a perfectly good USA trains Reefer car in the process
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/lownote/_forumfiles/cutup1.jpg)
Now comes the hard parts. It seems to me that doing this is like house remodeling–it really helps to know what kinds of tools/materials are available. I thought about carving the supports for the curved roof from balsa, then gluing styrene over it
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/lownote/_forumfiles/balsa.jpg)
But then I have to manage the overhang somehow–how thick does sheet styrene get before it’s unbendable? Is there a good place to browse what kind of styrene stock is available? I know a lot of people like TAP Plastics, but I can’t make head or tail of their website. I’ll need to order a BUNCH of detail parts, and figure out how to manage that railing…
Mike,
Looks like you’ve done a great job with the initial cuts. I think you have the toughest part of the job behind you.
Since the styrene will be supported underneath and will not have any weight bearing down on it, I would get it as thin as possible. This will make the bending easier and you could always glue a second layer over the first. Two thin sheets of styrene instead of one heavy sheet.
If you make the second layer thinner and larger than the first, it will give you the look you need.
Ralph