I printed it back in 2016 in 1:29 scale by just increasing the size of each part by 110.3%
I have found this to be very useful and accurate. Great for sizing between scales. I created it using a formula I found online. And so far it has worked well when I have designed things in one scale and wanted to print it in another.
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As Dan pointed out he used 110.3 is what he used to go from 1:32 to 1:29. I rounded so not as precise. But so far that chart hasn’t let me down.
That is very handy advice, Thanks.
I printed the front part last night and resized it by the x y z ratios to give me the millimeters I wanted. Does this make sense?
I plan on increasing the sides and top to match.
I hope this works.
If you are trying to match the dimensions of a USAT NW-2 that should work.
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I use Stan’s handy converter for scale converter all the time. Well worth the $24.
https://stanstrains.com/SoftwareHandyConverter.htm
Rescaling stl files found online can be tricky as they are rarely the scale claimed to be. So, in many cases you will find yourself scaling to known dimensions of your target scale as Todd is doing.
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That makes sense Dan. I created my chart mainly for me working with my own stuff. I usually design in 1:1 and this has worked to get me where I am going.
But that program you are using looks like the ticket. I had to work a bit to find a formula/calculator that would do it by percent. And since I use Matter Control for my resizing its very easy to do so by using the percentages.
But as you state, when you are aiming for a target like and existing chassis its likely gonna be better to size it dimensionally
I was really leaning this way but it doesn’t matter what a rooster thinks.
Trouble with the print! After several hours of printing the top piece of the hood finished and it has a warp on the corner that I don’t think I can salvage. 
UGH…
What would cause that? It seems to happen when I print thicker things like this hood top piece and Dan’s radiator for the GP38. The warp wasn’t that bad on the radiator so I still used it but I think this piece is junk.
My printer is a Geetech Mizar S with PLA filament.
Todd, I have an NW2 shell if you’re interested. Just send me a message.
Todd,
Unfortunately I have little useful guidance on what your issue is since I am an infant when it comes to filament printing.
But my offer stands.
pics? Did the part come free of the bed during print?
It was solid on the bed it just curled up at one end and I didn’t notice it until it was done. The same thing happened on one edge of your GP38 radiator but it wasn’t as severe so I still used it. Any idea what what is happening? Could my bed be too hot? 20230403_093142|375x500
What the heck is wrong with that? If it doesn’t work on the NW2 ya’ save it, clean it up and reuse it on say a coffee cup holder “INSIDE” the new Dunkin Doughnuts? Then pick up the phone and call Charlie Ro and snag a shell??
Regular PLA typically doesn’t need a heated bed. It looks like the raft let go. You should be able to print that part without the raft. Also improve adhesion with glue stick or hairspray.
Not having any clue what I am talking about, I can add that I used the hairspary trick, per Mike Williams, and my parts are pretty much welded to the print bed. I am using PETG and a heated bed with hairspray and so far all of the parts, even the failures are welded to the bed.
I don’t think I can shut off the heated bed. I can turn it down but not off.
I have tried the hairspray and it gives me flashbacks to the 80’s and all the girls with their big hair!
Right now something else is going on with the printer and nothing is sticking. Somehow the nozzle “Z” got messed up and I need to dial it in again.
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Not having any clue what I’m , I am (for Fred) talking about either but I can tell ya’ Aqua Net hairspray is the dong! Never used it as an adhesive for 3D printing only to hold down chalk weathering . However with hairspray you can always wash it off and start with a clean pallet!
Why does this picture keep haunting me.and that required a bit more hold than aquanet.
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It is a magnificent comb.
Last night I was able to print out a major part of the frame. It took all night to do it but it looks good. Now I have to do another and attach them.
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