I love the sound of a can of worms being opened. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)
1906 - The 3D print world is metric (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)
11220 and 906/830
Thanks, guys. Since I don’t have my printer yet, I’ll probably hold off on trying to develop additional adapters until I can print them here. I’ll still do a run of the GP9/906 one, though, since I know that works. I’ll be happy to make up the other ones in a month or so, though.
Which will you buy Eric? Very tempted myself, but every time I consider it, what (I think) I want is $4k.
Greg
I’ve ordered the Prusa i3 MK2S kit. It’s backordered 7 weeks, due to overwhelming popularity. I haven’t yet found a bad review.
Eric Reuter said:
I’ve ordered the Prusa i3 MK2S kit. It’s backordered 7 weeks, due to overwhelming popularity. I haven’t yet found a bad review.
Eric - I purchased the kit and built it up a few months ago - money well spent - it is a fine machine and does the job as advertised. Recommended.
dave
OK, so the last couple of times I accidentally posted replies to the for sale thread instead of this one. So this is what we’ve got so far. I took Eric’s original GP9 STL file (12mm high) and dropped it to 10mm for the NW2 and 8.5mm for the GP38-2.
The GP38 one bridges the rectangular well left when the stock mount 
It’s quite sturdy as is but I’m thinking of enlarging just a bit to match the well. Also, I believe the F3 and GP30 both have this style.
The F3 front might work with this, but the rear is a different story. The 906/11220 won’t fit in the rear position (unless the coupler sticks way out the back). Here’s how I converted the F3:
http://largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/26712/usat-f3-build-remote-couplers-and-lighting
The GP30 does appear to be identical to the GP38.
Jim Agnew said:
1906 vs. 906 differences using my plastic calipers
Dang it! I found I liked the look of the #1 couplers better and decided to go with the 1906. I wasn’t thinking about the height difference! Oh well, Guess I’m standardizing on #1 couplers @ Kadee “G” gauge height! It’s my railroad right?
Made the GP38 (and GP30 perhaps?) adapter a bit larger to sit on the aforementioned rectangular well.
Dan Gilchrist said:
Jim Agnew said:
1906 vs. 906 differences using my plastic calipers
Dang it! I found I liked the look of the #1 couplers better and decided to go with the 1906. I wasn’t thinking about the height difference! Oh well, Guess I’m standardizing on #1 couplers @ Kadee “G” gauge height! It’s my railroad right?
Or just make a shim out of .095 plastic.
Sure would like the front of the F3 since all my configurations run ABBB…BBA, so the train connects to the front coupler always.
Eric / Dave, have you guys ordered the multimedia upgrade for the printer? It’s $250 I believe…
Greg
I did my F3 with a piece of 1/8" aluminum, but when my printer gets here, I’d like to redo it. I’d also like to make a new plow without the huge void in it for the hook & loop coupler. I’ll get on it when the printer gets here next month.
I didn’t order the multimedia upgrade. I’ve never had a 3D printer, so I’m trying to ease into it.
Any hope for the S 4?
Steve Featherkile said:
Any hope for the S 4?
Steve, It’s quite possible one of the 3 sizes we have now will fit. How tall is the stock standoff?
Dan Gilchrist said:
Steve Featherkile said:
Any hope for the S 4?
Steve, It’s quite possible one of the 3 sizes we have now will fit. How tall is the stock standoff?
From the very bottom, the surface where your example sits on the table, to the top of the plateau is a shade over 25/32 (19.84mm, call it 20mm.) My micrometer only measures in inches, sorry. I use the large coupler.
This is the one from my GP38.
You would think it would match the NW2.
Steve Featherkile said:
Dan Gilchrist said:
Steve Featherkile said:
Any hope for the S 4?
Steve, It’s quite possible one of the 3 sizes we have now will fit. How tall is the stock standoff?
From the very bottom, the surface where your example sits on the table, to the top of the plateau is a shade over 25/32 (19.84mm, call it 20mm.) My micrometer only measures in inches, sorry. I use the large coupler.
This is the one from my GP38.
This one looks close enough for gummint work. Thanks. I have a friend who has the file, I’ll ask him to print a GP 38 to see how that works.