Korm. Try this. Import the makehuman model into Blender, pose it with the arms down on the sides and then print it standing up. See if that helps.
Martin,
and off i go, to learn another program - blender. thanks for the tip.
David,
yes. did they have zombies during the secession war?
I just made a set of windows for a Pola station. It had been outdoors for years, and the frames were brittle/broken/lost. They are snug by design and I like the looks of the new windows.
Korm Kormsen said:
David,
yes. did they have zombies during the secession war?
I don’t know Korm.
for the moment i am trying my luck with files, i found in the net.
the animals look nicer, than the figures. (must be, because they are bigger masses to print)
but cleaning away the support material produces lots of amputations.
next station: learning, how to use aceton for glueing ABS-figures.
they say: bigger is better…
seems, that the DaVinci printers are designed by machos. the bigger the model to print, the better is the result.
this was a pioneer wagon in 1:64, that i found in the net.
i scaled it to 1:32, cut it up in various parts, (hoping to make it more printer-friendly) an then printed the different parts.
total printing time: about 21 hours.
How’s the quality and will it go together easily?
holding the pieces together, it looks, as if they will be a perfekt fit.
quality? - removing the supportmaterial, some degrating needed, two or three little imperfections to repair - nothing, that should be visible after painting.
i am content.
at the moment i am printing the last parts of a gatling gun. seems to be satisfactory too. (pics to morrow or so)
I’d like to see that Gatling gun, Korm.
the first part i had to begin twice. (the ?? chassis/structure in german Lafette) the supportmaterial did not stay in place.
so i did the second try with a brim.
the barrels i did with a brim at first and only try.
the wheels i did both in one run.
only trouble i had was with the magazines. printed five in one run, without brim. got four and a nice tumbleweed.
printed everything on “slow”, thick shells and with 0.2 layers (the best my printer is able to)
the supports were of medium density.
if you want to give it a try, free download is here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1366436
(containes as well the original, which i cut up)
other, than i mentioned on the download site, i think now, at 350% you get something more like 1:22, than 1:32.
Hi everyone.
One thing not mentioned so far in this tread is PRINT RESOLUTION. The better the PRINT RESOLUTION, the better the print. If the 3D printer making your prints is not making the layers in ten thousands of an inch (0.0001’’), your printed object will show the layers. Resolution is also measured in microns or tenths of a millimeter. Just like your favorite sports car with a high horsepower output engine, you want a high resolution in your 3D prints.
I have owned an SLA type printer for a year now. This one has a resolution of .0012’’.
I am dialing in my second & newest ( filament type ) printer with a resolution of .0001’’. I am planning on using it to produce even more large scale replacement parts that the resin castings I have offered so far.
There are no ’ lines or grooves ’ to fill or sand on my projects.
High resolution also determines the performance of a 3D scanner. Expect to pay bigger bucks for the scanner than the printer. Retail market scanners are only good for scanning snow balls.
If you have the time but little money, best to learn to draw in 3D to create a super great .STL file that can print what you want by a 3D printing service or someone with a ‘professional’ quality printer.
One must also watch when changing the scale of an existing .stl file. One example I can use is a typical shovel. It has a handle measuring 1.5 to 2 inches in diameter. Shrink this down to 1:24 or 1:29 scale and it now measures about 0.05 inches which is not easily printable unless you have a very high resolution printer.
The 3D printing service you hire can tell you the limits of their equipment and can advise you on how thin to make members or walls of the object. They will also list the build size of the printer ( maximum length, width & height ) as the object being created must fit within these limits. A printer capable of printing the deck or body of a G scale 89’ railcar is extremely rare.
I draw using AutoCad 3D Inventor Lite. Other drawing programs are available by free download. What is important in the software is that it can change the scale of the object, export a PDF and most importantly create a .STL file.
AutoCad was easy for me but then I have past drafting schooling and experience. Practice, pratice and more pratice will make creating 3D models a breeze.
Gilbert Lacroix
thanks, Gilbert.
you confirm, what i was already fearing.
could you tell me, in which price-range are printers, that are doing 0.0012"?
another question: do you have any experience with picture capturing for “scanning”?
Korm
3D Systems’ Projet 1200 does prints at 0.0012’’ resolution for $4,900.00 USD. This does not include the dedicated laptop, any software or accessories.
For the other printer described in my previous post, again, you are looking at $5k for the set up. This amount of money can buy you lots of rolling stock which explains why I say to get a 3D printing service to do you fabrication.
I don’t have experience with picture scanning. Affordable scanning technology or services are a couple years away. Mastering a filament type printer like the one I just acquired uses up a lot of my time lately.
Gilbert
thanks for the informations.
my main problem with using printing services would be postage prices.
everything i get from the US costs me 120 to 150% thanks to transport.
the other problem are my wishes. i don’t want just any things, but i thought, the 3D tecnic would help me to copy some of my old swoppets collection.
(some are over 60 years old, and tend to get brittle)
if i can’t scan them, or alterations i am sculpting, the best printing in the world does not help me.
i am afraid, that for figures i have to try the other road: molding and pouring in resin.
just found something in the net, that i find very interesting!
it is for free download at: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1520654
when i have my printer installed in its new location, this will be the first print on my “to do” list.
Here’s a copy of my Piko station windows.
Korm, but the ones I saw were painted safety yellow.
Dick, the window pic is not visible - for me. just the black “X”.
David, i would not like to have something safety-yellow on my mid 1800s layout. save injun’s war paint!
Korm, that re-railer is about 100 years newer then your layout then. I have seen them, they are made from welded plate steel, and must weigh quite a lot.
oh…
are you trying to tell me, that rerailers of this type are not just a model-rr thing, but exist in 1:1 too?