Have another on me Roos!
Page 2 and thanks!
I had another 1:1 grade crossing that I had to tackle on the RR, this one at ground level so I took 3 PT 2x4’s about 4’ long and screwed them together to form a “U” . With this one I took a piece of track, laid it onto the horizontal 2x4 then attached the vertical ones so the edges of them would be level with the rail head so anything overhanging would clear. I don’t have a photo of this but I think you get the idea. The U shaped piece was then buried in gravel with concrete blocks to keep it level and now I can run my mower and garden cart filled with dirt right over it.
I still like the tunnel idea possible skunks and all.
Thanks for all the input. Unfortunately, the tunnel option wont work (Sorry, no skunk chasing!!) The railroad is at ground level with the road (well actually its about 1’ above the road) and then the ground slopes upward on the other side of the road. Plus, I’m in pretty rocky terrain and so if I dig too deep I better get some explosives.
I like the concrete idea as I was leaning toward that. However, as I think about it. The gate or drawbridge might be a better option. I do run my Bobcat down this road frequently and I do have some drainage issues that cause the road to washout after a heavy rain. I would fix the drainage problem before I ever laid concrete.
Plus, if I have any rock or other materials delivered, then the truck runs down this road. I don’t think a crossing would hold up over time, unless I really Over-engineered it. Hmmmmm…
I think your crossing would get beat up over time with trucks going over it.
If I were you I would build a near full size crossing gate with lights that can be lowered when trains are being run. A 8’ long lift out bridge might be the best bet. I have seen photos of long low girder bridges with footings evenly spaced used to cross water when ships are not a concern.
I think you have a exciting challenge here that could have a really unique solution.
Jake,
My suggestion would be to use two swing sections, one on each side of the road meeting in the middle, each about 4-5 feet long. The pivot point needs to be off the side of the track so the the track pivots away from the fixed section when the get is open. Simple clop leads could be used if you are doing track power. The meeting point in the center could be done with a slip joint similar to the alignment plate for the turntable referred to elsewhere on the forum.
Bob c.
Good idea Bob.
I may have overstated the traffic on that part of my road. I probably get 1 or 2 loads of material a year. I don’t usually drive that way when I’m leaving my house.
Didn’t somebody build one of those out of 2 big heavy angle irons set into the concrete? The wheels ran on the corner. Think that’s how I’d fail to do it.
Jake
This is what you need. It has had several truck loads of rock over it and car traffic everyday.
Man I was really hoping you were gonna go for the tunnel option …that would be cool!
(http://www.therobbinscompany.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/epb_warehouse2.jpg)
Rodney do you have a closer detailed pick of your crossing?
No I don’t have any other photos but I can tell you how we did it.
We used Maxmizer (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Maximizer-80-lb-Concrete-Mix-MAX80/203993808#.Ul6wehAY3zp) and added a 1 pound coffee can of portland cement to each bag to get the strength up to, guessing around 6500 to 7000 psi.
Dug a trench (after using a concrete saw to cut the asphalt) about 5" to 6" deep by about 18" wide. poured in about 2" concrete and added 2 pieces of 1/2" rebar. Filled it the rest the way up with crete and leveled it out. Floated in some 332 track till the railheads was a hair above the concrete. I used a 6’ aluminum level on the top of the railheads to make sure we didn’t have any dips in the track and made sure it was level side to side. The last thing I did was I used some muriatic acid to clean the railheads
This concrete mix sets in about 30 minutes so you got to work fast. Once the trench was dug, the pour took 2 of us about 45 minutes to get it done. I poured the crete and he mixed it with a small mixer.
Thanks Rodney. So I have some really good options.
Like I said I’m this project is a ways down the list but I have a good idea what to do.
Between Ralph’s lift bridge and Jon’s tunnel diggin’ machine – good stuff!
My vote is for Rodney’s remedy – I would add two features:
1 - Make the crossing “mound” tall enough to warrant painting it as if a speed bump.
2 - Install a 1:1 size RR cross buck for either side of the crossing “mound.”
Now you have a 1:1 appearing grade crossing – at least those who smile will know.
Keep the humor and the data. I love these threads.
Wendell
Hi Jake,
Why not mount the track onto PT or composite boards to go over the road in 6ft lengths. Simply set up the crossing when you’re running trains, and then put them aside when you’re not. If nothing else, its a good way to get started until you decide on a more permanent solution.
Not a bad idea. I havent expanded the railroad into that area yet. I promised the head land baron I would basically finish the current small layout before expanding. I need a few more buildings built and i can say its mostly done.
Jake,
I’d opt for the set in concrete method with the addition of inner guard rails, set close to flange width apart, probably need to grind off some rail foots. After the crete sets between and out side of the rails, go back and pour portland cement, I like a product called Cemet-all because of low shrinkage, any way pour this thin mix 2/3 of the way up the flangeway between the guard and main rails. To barely over flange depth needed. er… under the slightly over depth needed…
This should be easier to keep clean by limiting the size of pebbles that can be wedged inside. A nail in a stick cleaner.
John