Large Scale Central

Wye not?

I managed to get some work done on the inner loop roadbed over the three-day weekend. I decided to make a wye track on the east side of the gazebo. Of course, that also necessitated a couple of stepping stone pathways to have access to the switches. I decided to use plastic edging material to create the right-of-ways directly on existing grade and then come back and fill-in between the plastic strips with decomposed granite sub-roadbed.

Here is where the wye branches off the inner loop on the south side of the gazebo. The inner loop will continue west on past the walkway about a hundred feet before turning back at the far end of the layout.

Here are a pair of #10 switches where the reverse loop and wye will diverge from the inner loop.

Here is the view take just beyond the previous shot looking east on the north side of the gazebo. The inner loop will continue out across the moss bed and meet up with the existing portion of the roadbed at the far eastern edge of the layout. The roadbed curving off to the right around the gazebo will be the reversing loop and one leg of the wye.

Here is a different view of the same junction shown in the previous shot, but looking to the west.

Here is the moss bed that the inner loop will need to cross.

Here is a detail close-up that shows how the plastic roadbed and stepping stones are placed on grade. There is about a three inch thick layer of paver base under the stepping stones in this area. Everything else except where the roadbed will go gets a thick layer of shredded cypress mulch.

That’s about all I got done this weekend. All I need now is a couple more yards of decomposed granite and this section will be ready for track.

The saga continues,

Bob

dang Bob! those are sweet looking switches… I think you may have mentioned the manufacturer before, but would you please mention it again?

Greg

Lotta work, looks nice…

Andy Clarke said:

Lotta work, looks nice…

I agree except it looks VERY nice

Greg,

Most of the switches in the photos including the two #10s are from SwitchCrafters http://switchcrafters.com/.

All rail is code 215 aluminum. Unfortunately, Bruce at SwitchCrafters no longer makes switches due to health issues, but at last check he was still selling ties and rail.

Bob

Did I mention if you need “big” switches, Axel at Train-Li has gotten #10’s, although they seem to be brass or nickel plated.

It’s too bad about SwitchCrafters, they made great stuff.

Greg

Bruce made great stuff… to NMRA standards. Unfortunately, none of the major manufacturers of rolling stock made their stuff to NMRA standards. We found that Bruce’s guard rails were always too tight to allow the rolling stock through without being relaid, without the gap being widened. This is in no way a criticism of Bruce. He did it right. In this case, he was the only one in the marching band who was in step. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

Steve, were the flangeways actually too tight for the width of the flange, or it did not work because the back to back of the wheelsets was out of spec? (did anyone try setting the back to back to spec and try then?)

I’d guess the latter, since almost all “G” comes with a narrow back to back. I found that the NMRA standards for flangeway width are pretty generous, and provided your back to back was within spec., I have never had an issue with any rolling stock, LGB or nasty Aristo steamer flanges.

Greg

Pretty sure it was back to back. I’m just reporting what Chuck Inlow found. I build my own, and check my btb before putting new rolling stock in use.