Does anyone have any information on how to modify Aristocraft Heavyweight Psngr Cars from 1:29 TO 1:32? Anything appreciated. Thanks

Noel

I’ve been told that they are closer to 1:32 than to 1:29.

They do scale exactly to 1:29, but a short prototype of 72 foot.

Unlike many other models, they do not ride overly high.

You should take your 1:32 locos and check to see how they look together… you might be able to lower them a bit, which will have the effect of making them look a bit smaller, especially since they are not 80’ long.

After that, trying to make them shorter and narrower would be a BIG job, since the roof contour would be bad.

Greg

Noel, I have these. My guess is that when you see them running behind a good locomotive, like the Alco PA-PB I use sometimes, they’ll look great. You’re a lot more likely to be upset by how far apart the heavyweights are, how far apart the membranes between cars are. I’d think about modifying that distance before I thought about the 1:29 / 1:32 issue.

Just my opinion.

Noel, like Greg said, modifying the cars to a smaller scale would be extremely difficult. every dimension would have to be reduced, requiring a lot of cutting and gluing to scale down side panels, windows, doors, with, height and so forth. Best would be to see how they look in their chosen application, and then try to disguise the scale a bit by changing a detail or two.

One thing I have learnt in this hobby is that mainstream products are not finescale and there is a need to compromise and use a bit of imagination (fuzzy focus glasses) sometimes. I’d go with the above.

You might be able to lower the cars by sub’ing the trucks or modifying the bolsters. You could use some USAT membranes to close the gap between the cars without cutting the couplings. I did that and it looked quite effective. Even if you are a very good modeler cutting, shutting and channeling the bodies is just going to wreak their marketability (value) at a later date. If that is important to you. There are finescale 1:32 out there, at a cost. Might be worth the investment though if scale appearance is that important to you. Max.

One thing I have learnt in this hobby is that mainstream products are not finescale and there is a need to compromise and use a bit of imagination (fuzzy focus glasses) sometimes. I’d go with the above.

You might be able to lower the cars by sub’ing the trucks or modifying the bolsters. You could use some USAT membranes to close the gap between the cars without cutting the couplings. I did that and it looked quite effective. Even if you are a very good modeler cutting, shutting and channeling the bodies is just going to wreak their marketability (value) at a later date. If that is important to you. There are finescale 1:32 out there, at a cost. Might be worth the investment though if scale appearance is that important to you. Max.

Rayman4449 has an interesting take on body mounting Kadee couplers. This is probably the easiest modification that you could make.

He used the 881 adapter (it’s a small piece of plastic that fits nicely into an existing square recess in the car end).

Then he mounts a 789 coupler to it, which is a small draft gear unit.

It looks great BUT this will only work on broad curves.

The sharpness of your curves needs to be carefully considered.

I’d use/modify the Kadee flex bracket for anything NEAR 10’ diameter or less.

Greg

I cut the “talgos” as short as possible while retaining the ability to use the “tall” Kadees. This is about as close as you can get with this setup:

Noel, what are the curvature requirements, and why are you looking for 1:32?

Regards, Greg

Test

Thanks to all who had input into my question. I do 1:32 live steam 1950’s era CB&Q. Currently converting a Aster light mike to a heavy mike which is what the “Q” had. Heavyweights fit into my era very well. I will try some of the suggestions on making the Aristo heavyweights look a tad better behind my locos.

Thanks for being patient with my reply, however the computer was out for repair…going to a Mac Book soon.

Noel

David Russell said:

Test

820’s body mounted tight to the the end sill is possible with without any mods or add-ons using a 4.5 radius and it brings the diaphragm’s real close

Answering this even though it doesn’t relate to the original posters question.

(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

That picture is a bit dark… you can download Adobe CS2 for free nowadays and dodge and burn to bring out detail.

There’s something wrong in that jpg when I tried to download it. Looks like a damaged file header.

Greg

Noel,

I sold Mike Moore a couple of heavyweights which he was planning to convert (don’t think he ever did.) Try the question with a post on Aikenback or send him an email?

As you may recall, I’ve run a few plastic coaches through a table saw with some success, so it is possible to make the roof narrower or lower.

Dave,Greg,

I tried and my Photoshop had no problems ‘lightening the shadows’ and rotating 2 deg.