A few years ago I need to make a large number of windows for a project. I needed to make them, since none of the commercial windows available were the proper size for my project. Even if they were available, 21 windows would have been expensive to acquire. Anytime I need to make the same part many times, I prefer to make and use a jig. As I discussed my dilemma on a site, another member, Ron Hill, showed me a picture of a jig that someone else had made. The jig would assemble the window sashes, but then I would still have to assemble the sashes into a window. I decided that I didn’t want a jig that was going to only do part of the job. So I designed a jig that would build the whole window at one time.

So now, when I need a set of windows, I throw together a jig to make them. Its quick and easy, and I can make as many windows as I need. I save my jigs in a bin, so if another project comes up that needs the same size winodw as one I have already made, I dont have to build a new jig.

So, to demonstrate the making and use of the jig, I took a project from my future projects list. The house is a typical mine house, around Pittsburgh this style home is common, and there are neighborhoods where dozens of these homes line the street

It didn’t happen without pictures Maynard?

I printed out the picture to half scale, and measured the windows. The windows scale out to 1 1/4 inch wide and 2 1/2 inch high. So I cut a block of scarp wood to 1 inch by 2 1/4 inches. The window jams are made from 1/8th inch wood, so the windows will come out to the proper size.

I made sure the block of wood was square. Any errors in the jig will be reproduced in all of the windows. I then measured and drew a line about 1/32nd of an inch above center. I want the sashes to overlap, but I don’t want them overlapping perfectly.

Rooster, what didn’t happen?

I then measured down the side of the block and glued scrap wood to the jig. My jambs are usually 3/8th of an inch deep. I make them that size, because the walls of my buildings usually work out to around that thickness. All dimensions can be adjusted as needed for your project. Anyway, with 1/16th reveal, and 2, 1/16th sashes, I needed 3/16th of the jambs above the jig block. 3/8th minus 3/16ths means my stop blocks were mounted 3/16ths below the face of the jig block.

David Maynard said:

Rooster, what didn’t happen?

Timing ! Sorry …

Then on the face of the jig block, I glued on some scraps of 1/16th inch think wood. One near the top, and one above the line I had drawn.

If I was going to add mullions to the sashes, I would have glued on a sheet of 1/16th inch thick wood, so I could added mullion alignment blocks. But these windows don’t have mullions.

This is a jig that I built for the train station. Those windows had mullions.

Then I cut the window parts out of 1/8th x 3/8th and 1/8th x 1/16th wood. I cut enough parts to make as many windows as I need, plus at least one extra. I always do an extra one or two in case I make a mistake.

Once I I have measured the size of each part, I set up my chopper and just cut as many as I need.

Once the glue has dried on the jig, I rub the jig with paraffin wax. This will prevent the window from sticking to the jig as I am gluing it up. Then I glue and clamp on the jambs, side first, and the top and bottom, making sure they line up properly. I only put glue on the jambs where the jamb pieces touch each other, I am not trying to glue the window to the jig.

Then I glue in the lower sash parts, again being careful to only apply glue where the sash meets the jamb, or where the sash parts touch each other. First I do the top and bottom of the sash, then the sides.

Then I glue in the upper sash. Again being careful to only apply glue to the parts where the touch other window parts. This time the top of the sash is first, followed by the sides and then the bottom, making sure to glue the bottom of the upper sash to the top of the lower sash.

Once the glue has had time to set up, I remove the clamps and carefully remove the window from the jig.

And here is the new window with others I have made.

I have used this jig design to make batches of windows. Gluing together the window doesn’t take long at all, its letting the glue dry that takes the time.

I have the sashes overlap the way I do, so that I can glue in the window glazing, without having the bottom edge of the upper glazing visible. Once the window is mounted, trimmed out with a frame and a sill, painted and glazed, they don’t look too bad.

Ok Rooster, say it, go on, say it.

Holy smokes, David…when I asked a couple of weeks ago if we could get a detailed picture demo of how you do those fantastic windows, I never thought I’d see it this quickly.

Your explanation seems crystal clear, although I’ll probably run into something. I can’t wait to have a little time to try this out. I think between this for wood style windows and the 1/2" welded chicken wire for industrial type windows, I may be in business, won’t have to steal windows from kits any more, like I did for my challenge build!

Thanks for taking the time to do this. I’ll let you know how I make out.

…by the way…how thick of wood would that wood chopper chop? (I thought that was pretty good, myself, so no woodchuck jokes allowed!!!)

John, I am a simple person, so I look for simple solutions. I am sure you wont have any problems. Since its just left over wood bits the jigs are made from, they can be adjusted, or tossed and a new one made, if you bugger it up. I had to adjust the one for my gas station, because the sashes didn’t line up properly on the first try. I don’t usually post pictures of my mistakes, so Yunz don’t know about the mistake I made on the gas station window jig.

John, I cut the 1/8 inch thick wood on my miniature table saw. The chopper does fine on the 1/16th inch wood. To make sure i get a straight cut, I notch the wood, then flip it over and cut through it. A razor blade does have some angle to its edge, and I found if I cut straight through I get an angle cut sometimes. But if I cut partway, flip the wood, and cut the rest of the way through, the cut isn’t angled.

I have cut 1/8th thick wood on the chopper, using the notch and flip method. But I don’t like pushing that hard on the chopper. I want my tools to last. It will do it, I just don’t feel comfortable doing it with woods harder then balsa or soft pine. My windows are made with ceder or hardwood (maple) and it takes a bit of force to press a razor blade through those woods.

Dave,

Great explanation on your method of window production, I will be printing this thread out and keeping it in a notebook.

John,

It may seem like overkill, but I use my standard 10" Craftsman chop saw for all my cross cutting, unless it is real short, then I use a standard hobby miter box and razor saw. The only addition I make is to add a planed piece of wood to the vertical fence on the chop saw and cut through it after installation on the fence. That way the only open area is where the blade cut through and it minimizes any tear out on the cut. I also use a plywood blade for my hobby cutting. It produces a very fine cut, perfect for what we do. I also have a couple of fixtures for doing repetitive cutting, makes all the pieces exactly the same length.

I rip cut all may material on my 10" table saw with a zero clearance insert. This also allows cutting very small size wood. I have cut as small as 1/32 x 1/32. Yes, there is more saw dust on the floor than in the part, but considering all I use is scrap lumber from other projects or material I can acquire from work the amount of waste is not all too important.

Bob C.

Very nice. Too good to keep to a thread - how about converting it to an article?