Ive standardized on Accucraft couplers and have come up with a method to easily upgrade my Bachmann FN3 rolling stock to the Accucraft coupler. A special Thank You goes out to John Bouck who offered me the couplers he removes from AMS cars as well as supplying a bunch of Kadee draft gear for me to experiment with. Here’s my technique… I start with Accucraft couplers that came from Accucraft cars being changed out to Kadee couplers. What I get is just the coupler and springs, but no draft gear. This is what they look like when I get them…

It just so happens that an Accucraft coupler fits perfectly into a Kadee #911 Draft gear box…

With a little modification, the Accucraft Coupler / Kadee #911 Draft Gear can be made to fit into the stock draft gear included on the Bachmann cars. Since I wanted to retain the capability to return my cars to stock condition, I decided to modify a Kadee #910 draft gear box which is identical to the Bachmann item…

First, I saw off a portion of the #911 draft gear box…

This will allow the cover on the #910 box to close. The #910 also has to be modified as well by sawing away a portion of the bottom and cover…

Here is a before & after shot…

Once the two draft gear boxes are modified, the coupler can be inserted in the #911 and the #911 mounted in the #910. Note that in this photo I have the coupler mistakenly upside down in the #911.

Close up the #910 and you are ready to swap the assembly out with the Bachmann coupler and draft gear (again note my Accucraft coupler is upside down in the #911 box)…

The assemblies screw holes line up 100% with those on the Bachmann cars, so installation is easy. Here is one mounted on a Bachmann flat car…

They line up and couple (manually) with the stock Bachmann couplers and most AMS cars too…

Nice work Jon!
…:)…

Thanks. This was done (and posted I think) a long time when I first started using Accucraft couplers. It was written up for Al Pomeroy.

Jon Radder said:
It was written up for Al Pomeroy.

Well then, I won't pay attention to it ;) But it is a nice write up ;)

Jon,

Interesting alternative to what I have been doing. Thanks for posting.

Thanks Al. It helped that JB included a bunch of those draft gear boxes in the first load of couplers I got from him. If I were buying stock couplers from Accucraft I’d probably not abandon the draft gear they come with, but this sure did work out nicely for me.

Hey Al -

I’ve been playing around with a few couplers using the technique you mentioned in your thread Updates and upgrades to the Bachman C-19

Al Pomeroy said:
Jon,

… as to getting the couplers so you only need to open one, i start by filing away the parting line flash from the front of the knuckle. then work around the back side and remove the cast in fillet in the knuckle. also remove the flash in the same area on the body. the idea is to get this very smooth. the last step is to file what i will call the closer part of the knuckle.I try to concentrate on the end and work on a trial basis
with another coupler until it works good. you do not want to remove too much as the coupler will not close and lock (guess you know how i found out) This may be a good thing to do in front of the TV. and start with a spare pair of couplers. will try to post some instructional photos by the end of the w/e.

So far so good. I have yet to mount a set and see if they work as expected but I think I’ve got the idea.

Do you have any suggestions on repair of couplers that have pin drop problems other than application of graphite?

I’ve got a few Accucraft couplers that suffer from the ‘pin drop problem’. Tried graphite, not much better. So I too will be watching for Al’s reply.

I may not have described the problem correctly. The problem is an open coupler won’t close without lifting the pin while closing.

Being impatient I decided to take one apart. Since it didn’t really work anyway I had little to loose. Close inspection didn’t find any real problems. I filed off some mold flash and put it back together . Fitting the spring is a real challenge. Once back together it didn’t work any better. The pin still hangs up the knuckle when open preventing it from closing.

By accident I decided to push the second retaining pin (the brass one seen only from the bottom just behind the pivot pin) a little deeper into the body. What do you know; as soon as I did that it started to work properly. Now I need to find a second one with the problem and try just pushing in that retaining pin without taking the coupler apart. If it works again it is a simple and quick fix.

Now I need to think about making lift bars for my home built cars & 1:24 conversions.

Jon Radder said:
Thanks Al. It helped that JB included a bunch of those draft gear boxes in the first load of couplers I got from him. If I were buying stock couplers from Accucraft I'd probably not abandon the draft gear they come with, but this sure did work out nicely for me.

Jon, I have a lot more knuckles, but very few draft gear boxes. Lemme know if you need more.

Jon,

if you are talking about the small brass pin that retains the knuckle you have found the problem, just do not push it in to much or the knucle will lock up. when making cut levers remember that the chain (whatever you connect with) needs to be pulling the lift pin slightly backwards toward the car. i have not been able to figure out why this is nessasary but sufice to say that every time i set up vertical it does not work.

Thanks Al - Yes the brass pin was what I am trying to describe