Whenever you work on a model there is substantial risk to scratching the paint or damage. I live my life by O’Toole’s Law…O’Toole thought Murphy was an optimist! The best rule it to reduce damage to the greatest extent possible. Some of this just easy, like using foam rubber – you can never have enough foam rubber. I don’t use slings when I model; I just position the model using various pieces of foam rubber placed to position the model properly. The second tool is masking tape. If you don’t want it scratched, put masking tape over it. It’s great for anything that sticks out, like cylinders, air pumps.

When I need to work on the side of a model I use a wood support with foam rubber wedges to hold it firmly on its side.

Last, is a boiler support. If you remove a boiler, don’t lay it down! Take a wood base drill a hole in the center and put an upright pipe, bolt, or large wood dowel securely in the hole. Put a bit of foam rubber around the base to protect the boiler front edge.

I hope these tips are helpful.

Jim,

Something need to be done with your pictures, none of them are showing here. “Welcome Aboard!” if I haven’t said it.

Nice tips Jim and Welcome aboard

He’s not uploaded the jpegs to his freight shed. His photo on his cinder block construction was displaying, but is now gone.

Jim,
Here’s Bruce Chandler’s article on posting photos. If you’re using Windows, it should help.
Ralph

http://www.largescalecentral.com/articles/view.php?id=96

Thanks Ralph,

With Bob’s assistance I got the photos posted.
This is a most helpful article.

Jim

Good ideas Jim. Thanks for posting.

Jim
Is that a Accucraft C-21 you have started to paint?? What modifications have you done to it?? Its looks good and thanks for the tips.

Rodney

Rodney, Yes, it’s an Accucraft C-21 that I’ve been working on for 18 months (about done). It was an effort to produce an accurate reproduction of D&RGW 361. I milled out the frame to the original shape, installed journal pedesals and a fully functional leaf spring and equalization system, with simulated Stephenson valve gear. The front truck has a flanger installed based on the D&RGW design. The firebox was redone, with stay bolts, the bottom edge of the mud ring was changed from slanted to straight across, and the ash pan was rebuilt to match the original. Motor supports were relocated into the fire box. The cross heads, main rods and all connecting rods were all milled down to the proper dimensions and have proper nut and bolts detail. The brake rigging will be complete with brake hangers and all connecting rods. With a bit of luck the engine will be in a magazine this summer, if there is interest I’ll post some of the modeling techniques.

Jim, if you don’t mind, the modeling techniques would be much appreciated. Photos of the work you did on the loco and pics of the loco would also be well favored. At least by me.

Dave,

Thanks for asking! I have a bit of a dilemma. I am currently writing a magazine article about the super detailing of the C-21, complete with modeling tips. If all goes as planned, once the article is in print the magazine will put the article on line and I can post the link. If the article doesn’t run, I’ll post away on LSC.

You can check out modeling info by others now at http://www.finescalerr.com/

I’ll check out the link and look forward to the article Jim.