Uh oh. Reflective tape that isn’t as expensive as Scothlite. That just may move a someday project to the current project list.
When it rains, make trains. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
I just had to replace the reflective tape on my 48’ trailer, I think a 100’ roll was around $80.00. too bad red and white don’t work for railroads, I have some leftover, I could do all my rolling stock at scale sizes. I may get a roll and do my UP loco to current looks.
Pete, I have photos of CP units and Canpotex potash cars sporting red and white stripes. You just need to add some foreign power and cars to your fleet. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Sweet …
Shane Stewart said:
(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)
Show off (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
I know……… (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-embarassed.gif)(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-embarassed.gif)
That looks good!
David Marconi,FOGCH said:
Shane Stewart said:
(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)
Show off (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Thanks Guys. Four more days until I can paint the markings, and then I’ll show off some more. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)
Shane
Shane is that front door operative
Hi David,
No, the doors and windows do not function on any of my models. It’s not a detail I’m interested in. Even my new SD75I project already has the door holes plugged.
How have you been removing markings from your aluminum cars? I tried alcohol, and it didn’t do much, though I couldn’t really soak the cars as they are too big. 1500 grit sand paper gets it done, but it leaves a dull smudge that I don’t really like.
Shane
Shane I have tried a few different solutions with mixed results, all leave a smudge or leave bits of the markings.
The cars so far have been Aristo so not really any markings on the aluminum body just on the plastic pieces. Since my private road cars are painted blue and gray I haven’t needed to worry about scuffs.The latest car I painted the entire car with Krylon metallic Brilliant Aluminum since I was keeping it as a SCL car and there was a mix of aluminum and plastic surfaces that needed to be the same color.
Note I have found no color the matches bare aluminum.
That said when I polished aluminum stream liners in my HO days I used a tip from other builders and used dry SOS or Brillo scouring pads on the whole car to buff them out to an even sheen. Try this on a hidden area of one of your bodies to see the results. I believe the dry soap in the pad lubricates as you buff, but you have to be able to do the full piece of aluminum if you do this. I would be tempted to also try rubbing compound or jewelers rouge for the same effect, though whether to do so with 0000 steel wool or rags and buffing pad on a dremel would have to be tested.
Hope this helps. Maybe our resident jeweler has a better answer.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
edited to include the solutions I use.
91% alcohol
Purple bottle Super clean
Brake Fluid… this usually the best
Chameleon model paint stripper(No longer available)
Acetone… this almost as good as the brake fluid
and Mineral spirits
Started on the markings and detail today. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)
New experimental number boards. I placed black electrical tape over .01 styrene and cut them out with the Silhouette Cameo.
On Friday, the battery and Revo control for this unit are supposed to arrive. I was hoping to get it into service before the summer ends. Today, I went to mount Kadee’s, and there was 1/8" difference between the ends. After closer inspection, I discovered that the “new” SD40-2 I purchased from a dealer three years ago is equipped with two different motor blocks. The front matches my SD70 blocks, and the rear has smaller wheels, so I’m guessing it’s an SD40-2 block. Now I have to shell out a couple hundred for a new set of motor blocks. I figure if I’m going to change one, I may as well do both at the same time as I no longer know what I’m dealing with. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-frown.gif)(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-frown.gif)(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-frown.gif)
Not very happy today.
Shane
Incredible detail as usual Shane. I enjoy seeing your work (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Shane, the extra expense and aggravation of the motor block problem really sucks and sounds like it was frustrating, but the quality of your construction, the care for detail, not to mention the very convincing painting, is second to none.
Did the batteries and receiver arrive? I’d love to see a video of this baby running down the track (if you’re not under three feet of snow by now up there is Canada!).