This is all good information. However I believe in Richards case the problem is within the “Primer” manufacturer that he chose to use …however this is ONLY my opinion from past experiences.
" Rooster " said:
This is all good information. However I believe in Richards case the problem is within the “Primer” manufacturer that he chose to use …however this is ONLY my opinion from past experiences.
I agree
David Maynard said:
… As for “plastic” paints, I have had limited success with them. I just use the regular Krylon primer…
Is it the alcohol that might make certain plastics brittle?? I’ve never used it before…was also thinking of brake fluid…thoughts?
Again, I appreciate all the help and suggestions. My first task will be to remove the primer I did on the one car that wants to peel. As I mentioned in a previous post the other car is solid and the primer does not come off. So it is something about that one car. I’ll keep you posted…I’ll also go with Krylon since our local Ace carries an abundance of it.
Richard
I know it’s pricier than Krylon, and a much smaller can, But I use Testor’s model paint on all my train projects, and have yet to have anything peel, it’s designed specifically for hard plastics.
Funny …If you tried for this effect you wouldn’t be able to do it !
Sean said:
Funny …If you tried for this effect you wouldn’t be able to do it !
Oh, ain’t that the truth!
Mike Wlez said:
I know it’s pricier than Krylon, and a much smaller can, But I use Testor’s model paint on all my train projects, and have yet to have anything peel, it’s designed specifically for hard plastics.
Yes. But since I am a cheep bast person, I have used Krylon for decades. If I properly clean my work, the paint sticks just fine.
Nice truss bridge.
Maybe not for y’all, but for me out here in farm burg, acquisition of Testors paint is an issue.The closest actual hobby shops are at least 2 hours away and with my health the current mess it is I can’t drive for 2 hours to get there. There is mail order and I do use Squadron and Walthers. But in the main I’ll see what they have in spray paints that might do what I want well enough here in our little 3 mile wide burg at Walmart, Snapp’s Hardware, and the couple of auto parts places.
Took the plunge and tried an old product I had in the cabinet called “Goodbye Splatters”. It took all of about 20 seconds to soften the Rustoleum Primer…I worked quickly with a stiff nylon brush and then ran it under hot water. A toothpick was helpful in the corners and in the crevices. Product didn’t seem to harm the plastic but again, I worked very fast. When the paint was removed I scrubbed the model clean with dish soap…Hopefully all of this will allow for a repaint using Krylon instead of Rustoleum with better results.
As far as “Goodbye Splatters” I can’t find any reference when I Google it. Perhaps its the early rendition of Goo Gone or something…well whatever, it seemed to do the trick.
Richard
“Goodbye Splatters” is something I have never heard of. Sure hoping this time is successful for you after all the hassle.
“Goodbye Splatters” - wasn’t that an old movie about a boy and his dog? A real tear jerker.
Lou Luczu said:
“Goodbye Splatters” - wasn’t that an old movie about a boy and his dog? A real tear jerker.
I think it was about a boy and his squirrel, the pet got loose one day and ran across the road
I think I’ve just figured out what to name the opossum that is now visiting us on a regular basis…loved the tunnel and waterfall…Splatters works…although I plan to live catch it and set it free about 10 miles from our home.
Paint removal:
Somewhere along the line I have read that paint can be removed from plastic safely by using sodium bi carb in a modelling airbrush sandblatser (made specifically) for this job
Think Badger sell them (and sodium bi carb is cheaper than the usual materials.)
Wear a dust mask - as the bi carb can be harmful if you take beta blockers! - (so I am told by various medical leaflets !)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)
