Large Scale Central

Building Facades?

Where’s da pitchers, huh?..(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

I put one photo up of the 4 facades in a row. I can see it? How about now?

Picture shows, and the facades look good… (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

I can see those. Looks good.

for those interested in “advanced” facade-building two ideas:

(i did these things with scraps of carton packages, veneer and coffee stirrers - good enough for indoors.

and please excuse the rough execution, these i built over a decade ago)

  1. give depth to your flats, by using pictures inside.

these pics from a comic are one inch behind the frontwall:

this “room” is about one inch in depth too. it was my first lighted building. a rearlight car bulb and some alu foil did the trick:

  1. use forced perspective.

these station buildings are 1:29 in the front, and 1:45 in the back (with a real depth of 6.5 inch):

Todd

I think you need something behind the buildings … Hard not to see the latticework!

That is a good idea to add the photos inside Korm. It looks good.

I was thinking that Sean, even a board painted sky blue would look better.

In the works is another facade that is shaping up to be the best one yet.

For my airplane hanger building facades, I just painted the back of the window glazing black. It gives the impression that the room beyond is large and unlit.

David Maynard said:

For my airplane hanger building facades, I just painted the back of the window glazing black. It gives the impression that the room beyond is large and unlit.

I have been doing something similar for years. In my photo the red barn to the left has a plexi window and the wall behind that is painted. The yellow building to the right has 3 windows that have the same treatment.

It works.

The SVGRS modular RR has an immediate need for more buildings, so I’m going to build a bunch of flats to clamp onto the rear of the modules. I can do that, but I need a little help. I’d like to build some one and two story buildings in various widths to resemble stores like banks, offices, hardware stores, etc.

Widths are a problem for me, but the heights are. Are there any “typical” heights for one story and two story buildings? Measuring commercial kits won’t help because they are not (usually) 1:32. With my scale ruler(s) I can lay out the height easily if I know what it is. TIA.

it all depends on what kind of building it is.

a cabin should have storeys of about 9ft height each.

for, let’s say, a bank, i would make the 1st floor about 11 to 12 ft. high, the upper floors 9 or 10 ft.

a theatre could have a 1st floor of more than 14 ft height.

and shops and mansions… the cheaper they look, the lower each floor should be.

workshops and deposit buildings can have very different heights, depending on what is inside.

the only “general” rule that seems to exist, is that most buildings have a 1st or ground floor that is higher than the upper floors.

Dick,

Era has a lot to do with building (ceiling) heights and heights in general. Korm has given you some good basic advice already but a couple of other things to consider.

Foundation height; older buildings usually were built up foundations, some with daylight window space for the basement. these heights could be from two to four foot high before the main floor. Most more modern buildings, especially commercial buildings sit on concrete slabs so the foundation space is minimal, say 6-8 inches.

Modern residential and small commercial buildings have 8 foot ceilings with various heights of attic space, depending on need and/or style. Older residential structures usually ran with 9 foot ceilings while commercial buildings were commonly 10 to 12 foot ceilings.

Multi-story structures need to have a minimum of 2-3 foot of space above the ceiling for structural and mechanical requirements. Again, in more modern structures there is usually less space between floors. The building bean counters realize that every extra inch in height is dollars out of pocket.

These observations hold true for West Coast construction it may well be done differently elsewhere.

Rick

I don’t build to any scale but if I had to choose one I would say 1:20. I build my structures considering a 3"-3.5" tall man will be working there so the doors are usually 4" tall and windows and floors follow along.

The standard Bachmann guys are just over 3" tall and the LGB ones are under 3". I don’t have any 1:32 stuff so I don’t know how that would pan out but perhaps a tall man is 2.5"s ?

Keeping all that in mind you can look at any real building and compress it to fit your scale.

I think if you are off just a bit you will still be OK Dick since buildings do come in so many sizes but just keep in mind that having the right sized doors really helps with the illusion.

Fine looking flats Todd. Keep posting the areas growth (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

Thanks, guys. I forgot about basements, but I did find a place on the web with a calculator for how high a building should be. You enter the number of floors and it gives you an idea of how high it should be.

First floor about 12 - 14 feet, all others about 10 feet. Parapet about 3 feet. I’ll lay one out on paper to see how it looks. And then take my 1:32 people and hold them against a door!

Standard, modern, doors are 7 feet high. Older, especially Victorian era doors, can be taller.