Large Scale Central

Batteries 101

Devon,

I bought this Berlyn Work Goose #6 from Jonathan Bliese (owner of EMW-RC Trains in Chino, CA), about 2 1/2 years ago… It uses a 14.8 volt, 1400mah lithium battery, has a Airwire decoder (split) and Phoenix sound. EVERYTHING is located in the bed of the vehicle, made to look like cargo. Jonathan did all the work.

The battery is in the crate. The sound is under the “tarp” along with one of the split portions of the Airwire decoder. The other “half” of the AW decoder is under the bed of the Goose. The charger port is in the “tool box” under the bed, at the rear of the driver’s door. The actual size of the bed is about 3 1/2 inches wide by about 5 inches long.

If this is going to be a simple critter, why do you even need a ESC, and a Rx? Why not save room for the batteries by just installing a on/off switch and a toggle switch to control forward/reverse? If it’s creeping along, I wouldn’t think it would be too hard to switch directions, or shut off?

Devon, I’d recommend you buy a meter and measure the current your locos are using, that will help you decide on battery capacity.

They are useful for many things, and you can buy one from Harbor Freight for about $5 that will do the job for volts, amps, ohms.

Greg

Craig Townsend said:
If this is going to be a simple critter, why do you even need a ESC, and a Rx? Why not save room for the batteries by just installing a on/off switch and a toggle switch to control forward/reverse? If it’s creeping along, I wouldn’t think it would be too hard to switch directions, or shut off?

DPDT Center Off 3 position switch does it all.

I’ll will try to address each of the above in this one post. BTW thanks guys for keeping me honest. My mind tends to wander beyond the rational so people second guessing me helps ground me to reality.

Craig, why R/C-ESC because I can (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)… No, seriously I started off with the thought of a simple on/off switch and one speed one direction operation. Then I considered Del’s critter control at around $35 bucks where I could set the speed and adjust it and what not. Then I started up a conversation with Tony and all heck broke loose (actually I solicited him so its my own fault). For an extra 30+/- bucks I can have his smallest RX-ESC. Because I am already needing a controller/Tx to run my other equipment I am not figuring this into the cost since one will run them all. This still doesn’t answer why; for $70 I will have full operational control over the locomotive which will make it infinitely more fun to play with even if it is only on a micro layout. Should I choose I can 'operate ’ not to mention it would be something youngsters or others would find fun t play with. So that’s the logic there.

Greg, I have a pretty decent multimeter already. I am not sure how you measure amps with it, never tried that, only use it for voltage. Do you just hook it up in line with the positive or negative lead? Also would I have to power it at the 7.4v to get a correct reading or is amp draw independent of voltage?

Gary, that is inspirational. I know with creativity and a little ingenuity I can do this. I have to just use every inch of space. There is alot of volume available really just have to figure out how to utilize it.

Devon:

Not that I’m recommending this, but have you considered LiPo batteries? They have much higher energy density than Li-ion for example and are often available in a somewhat flexible package.

Many will, and rightfully so, point out their volatility (read extreme fire danger) especially when used indoors. They are becoming a relative standard for RC cars and planes.

Even though I have an indoor layout I am seriously considering at least using this in one tiny application. I am still evaluating the risks as there are more than a few.

Mark,

I had not considered any other type at this point other than Li Ion. Not that I am opposed to alternatives, thats just what seemed like the best bang for the buck. I will look a them. With fire hazard being and issue is being stuffed in a little loco with poor ventilation a good idea?

Devon, I think LiPo batteries are not good for use because of the temp range, 40-80°F, and other reasons. I don’t know how the fly-boys get away with using them.

http://www.all-battery.com/lipo_safety.aspx

http://www.all-battery.com/li-polyerbatterypacks.aspx

Devon, you do indeed put the meter in series in the circuit, and there should be an “amps” selector… your meter may only read a few amps or so. Your meter should indicate what the max amps are. Typically there is a different “positive” socket for the positive probe.

Regards, Greg

Whilst Large Scalers have kept away from Li-Po’s for powering trains, using Li-Po’s for battery R/C in the smaller scales is actually quite common. Mainly because they have to.

There is a society dedicated to dead rails in all scales which has just been opened.

For those interested you can read about it here: http://www.deadrailsociety.com/

There is also lots of discussions on battery R/C in smaller scales here: http://freerails.com/view_forum.php?id=45

Steve,

I think the boys at all-battery.com have propagated some miss information with regard to Li-Po battery storage suggestions.

Lithium cells can be stored at temperatures up to 60C/140F per multiple battery OEM’s. Its not necessarily a good thing but reality.

I’ll offer All Battery should have suggested that prolonged storage (six months plus) should be at or below 26C/80F, again per multiple battery OEM’s.

In any event temperature specifications are generally NO different for Li-Ion or Li-Po cells… As they are essentially comprised of like electrochemistry.

Michael

Well one thing about this critter is it will be an indoor train for my micro. So storage temp isn’t a concern. If by some chance I build a piece of my eventual layout as 32mm it wouldn’t be the mainstay and the little loco would only come out for special occasions. It won’t be an all weather runner.

What kind of run time might I get using two 7.2vt Nimh packs to run a LGB 2018d mogul with its onboard lighting circuit(smoke generator is disconnected)? I plan to put my Keithco Locolinc radio gear in to control the locomotive. Trying to work with what I already have on hand. Only thing I know I need to purchase is a charger that can recharge both packs at the same time so I dont have to remove them from the tender. Mike

Mike,

The specific batteries in play rated capacity and condition/age will dictate the potential and or run time realized. The actual battery capacity together with knowing your engines electrical needs is prerequisite to calculating run time. I’d suggest a Mogul with lighting will likely consume less than 1.5 Amps. Best case is to utilize a DVM capable of reading current/amperage to determine the actual needs while the engine is working.

Michael

I’m not a huge tech guy but I use a lot of batteries for many things. Here are a few things I have learned. Using LiIon in series or parallel isn’t a great idea. NiCad and NiMh are nice but are huge and heavy and you have to take care of them or they geek out. If you’re going to use batteries buy all the same type so you can use the same chargers and save money.

With that, I use LiPo in my RC cars. They give the option for high drain which my 50mph (real speed) RC truck needs. The draw back is they DO NOT have voltage protection. When they get low the RC truck has electronics that shut them down. The truck failed to do that once. Once. It went poof. Actually it was really cool to watch but cost me an ass load of money to fix and replace. Most of the air guys like lipo because of the lightweight and the fact that they don’t “drop off” in voltage like NiCad and NiMH batteries do. You get a constant run voltage until the onboard protection circuitry kicks in.

I use LiIon in my trains. They are smaller compared to NiMH or NiCad and have (or should) built in circuitry to shut them down at low or high voltage. I like them because I don’t have to pay attention to them. They don’t need a service charge. They can be run 1/2 way down and recharged without problem. They have a long life and are safe. Lots of people will tell you they are dangerous and by all means believe them. But, here is my story.

I install LiIon in my locos. I charge them on “smart” (dumb) chargers that show a red light when they are low and green when charged. I will leave the charger plugged into the loco for days unattended. I leave the batteries in my locos in my barn year round. Temps from -28 to 100 so far with no failure. (i have had failure but the packs were faulty from the manafacturer) The key is the the proper charger for the batteries.

I carry LiIon batteries at work at the fire dept daily. My flashlight, helmet light and camera and the thermal imager all use LiIon batteries. I punish them. They see extreme temps, massive amounts of moisture and get dropped, stomped and abused on a daily basis. None have failed. NONE.

With that, Tony’s ESC is awesome and small. I personally use airwire and went with the convertr in my bachmann davenport. It works well too. Starting over for the price point and operation, I’d buy Tony’s. Most locos in reality draw less than an amp. My Bachamnn K27 will run for 6+ hours on a 5500Mah battery with sound running and 14 AMS (heavy) cars in tow. My shay has a 14.8v LiIon 2200v battery and it runs longer than I want to stay outside most days. I did an install with (1) 14.8v 6000Mah battery running 2 aristo PA’s with airwire and sound in each. The locos will run an entire day, 8 hours, without shutting down.

I hope this info helps.

T

Hi Terry -

I agree with everything you said except “Using LiIon in series or parallel isn’t a great idea.”

Not to argue, but my experience has been quite different. In my Porter, the only way I could fit the batteries in was to use two 7.4V packs; one in each tank. The packs are wired in series to produce 14.8V at the ESC and Charge port. I charge them as a 14.8V 4S pack. So far, in 4 years of light operation I’ve had zero problems.

Both of my Batt-R/C-Sound trail cars have plug-in provisions for two packs in parallel for increased amperage/run times. I rarely use them that way except when running plow service with a big or multiple locos. So far I’ve not had an issue with this set up either.

Have you had a different experience?

Li-Po batteries work fine for trains… The risk and or behavior of said batteries as compared to Li-Ion is nearly identical with a PCB and or fuse in play with a Li-Po battery. Li-Po and Li-Ion cells are both comprised of essentially the same electrochemistry, Li-Po cells are without benefit of a metallic enclosure and attributes thereof… A PCB/PCM is NOT the wholly grail as many would suggest, but does provide additional protection many find favor with, preventing uninformed users from realizing derogatory results.

Generally speaking Li-Ion battery packs are provided with a PCB/PCM, that said it’s not inclusive, it’s optional. Generally speaking Li-Po battery packs are not fitted with PCB’s, yet they are available equipped with same or one can purchase a PCB and incorporate it into the battery pack same situ realized of Li-Ion batteries. In today’s world most Li-Po’s are equipped with cell balancing pigtails/features which can also be used together with PCB’s, and audible or visual voltage alarms (said alarms are the correct method to determine or anticipate when to stop running and recharge) .

The obvious difference of Li-Po and Li-Ion is form factor and whether or not the battery assembler incorporates or not a safety feature commonly described as a PCB and or PCM into their battery offerings.

Either type of Lithium technology is capable of bursting, being punctured, and thermal runaway, shorting or similar with equal results with like chemicals in play.

Mitigating failure modes is paramount; PCB/PCM’s limit current draw, over/under voltage conditions and short circuit protection. Peculiar to Li-Ion cells are metallic cylindrical enclosures and anti-explosion mechanical vents and or a PTC (mechanical thermal protection/positive temperature coefficient). These devices work similar to TMPRV or pop-offs atypical of water heaters/boilers and the like. In theory and or application the vents open at pre-determined pressure/temperature specifications, venting in a non-volatile mode.

Li-Po’s are typically encased in a flexible foil polymer pouch, without benefit of mechanical vents. The pliable polymer can and will rupture under the same circumstances realized of venting of Li-Ion cells.

Li-Po’s are widely used in cell phones, laptops, tablets, media players and many other applications we utilize on a daily basis.

The problems with fire or explosion are generally associated with improper user interaction, BUT poor quality materials and quality control are suspect in many failure modes (remember the several hundred thousand Sony Li-Ion cells catching fire in laptops debacle of years back).

I use Li-Po’s almost exclusively in my model trains without benefit of PCB/PCM’s. I utilize the correct charger and charge algorithms (most common reason for failure modes of Li-Ion and Li-Poly batteries). The charger prevents over charging, and or over discharge in the case of cell balancing (I use cell balancing chargers). A properly sized fuse offers short circuit protection. Over discharge/voltage depression considerations while on the rails is nary a problem if you don’t ignore same (common sense-ESV-audible/visual alarms).

FWIW: utilizing a battery equipped with a PCB or its CID (circuit interrupt device) to determine when the battery is discharged or ready to be recharged is detrimental to any lithium batteries extended life cycle. The two most prevalent factors that harm Lithium cells are heat and DOD (depth of discharge). Burning your batteries down to the PCM’s 2.5V per cell interrupt specification is a bad thing in the scheme of things if you expect to get the anticipated 300-500 cycles out of your batteries.

A battery with a PCB/PCM provides a layer of protection from inappropriate user interaction and or internal faults. KNOWN problem areas realized of user interaction: utilizing the CORRECT; charger, charge algorithm and current limiting device(s).

In years past many of the low budget Lithium chargers were NO more than minimally intelligent power supplies, relying wholly on the inherent attributes of a battery with a PCB/PCM to mitigate over-charging/voltage conditions.

Evolution and hysteria abounds from user interaction of Lithium cell/battery use, early on many realized problems from improper care and feeding of their lithium batteries which resulted in various failure modes. IMO for the most part were beyond the ignorance once prolific of Lithium battery care and use.

Lastly in my experience, realizing rated mAh specifications without benefit of voltage degradation twenty minutes into the 60 minute discharge interval is highly unlikely. In a perfect world a Li-Ion 2600mAh cell is supposed to provide 2.6A @ 3.6V per cell for sixty minutes, in my electronic loads realm it’s a fantasy…

Series-parallel batteries, i.e., two series wired batteries coupled in parallel to realize increased mAh capacity are commonplace, the problem with same is a SINGLE cell failure renders the battery nearly useless delegating an expensive battery to the recycle bin (there is NO question this will happen, just a matter of when).

Michael

@Daktah John, I didn’t have luck putting two 7.4v LiIon batteries together in series (I think?) I needed space so I tried to use the smaller packs to get 14.8 volts. They wouldn’t work. The PCB (again, I think) would shut down after about 30 seconds of use. Also I wasn’t sure about using one charging port for both batteries. Again I use the chargers from tenergy that work with the battery PCB.

Michael the above information is great and I don’t disagree with a single bit of it, but it’s too much for me. I don’t want to wire in protection circuits. I don’t want to pay attention to my trains battery life. Most days i set the trains to action then do yard work, go to the store, drink adult beverages, wander in the house for awhile etc etc etc. I also have my kids run them and people over who no zero about batteries, they just want to run the train. For me LiPos aren’t good for that. In my RC truck they are because they don’t drop off like NiCads and I can suck 6 amps outta them in 20 minutes unlike LiIons and I pay constant attention to the truck, because well, when you are racing cars down the street it’s kinda important…

So, truth be told I am lazy, I abuse my battery packs and I like the easy way. :slight_smile:

T

The batteries I plan to use are a pair of 6 cell, 7.2vt, 5000MaH batteries. These are also what my RC10 car uses. I know a single battery direct to the motor in a Hartland 4-4-0 will yield over 6 hours of running non stop. So my hope is a pair, even with the extra draw of the RC gear will give a decent run duration. The engine will be wired thru a switch to take power from the batteries or track. Only putting the battery option in so I have the ablity to run at friends places that do not have track power. My little railway does just fine on track power still. Mike

Devon, to give you a battery run time idea, I power a Lionel Thomas pulling Annie and Clarabell with a 9v alkaline battery. Thomas will typically run for about 2 hours.

LiIons have more power in a smaller package due to battery chemistry.

T