I guess it depends how long the curve is and how long the train is.
Makes perfect sense to me too. Greg
David Maynard said:
My locomotives are most apt to slip when the locomotive is on the straight track, but he trailing cars are still in the preceding curve. The curve creates more drag on the cars, but the locomotive cant get the added traction of the flanges pressing against the rail in a curve.
David Maynard said:
My locomotives are most apt to slip when the locomotive is on the straight track, but he trailing cars are still in the preceding curve. The curve creates more drag on the cars, but the locomotive cant get the added traction of the flanges pressing against the rail in a curve.
This is exactly when my engine typically slips trying to pull the cars up the track. It was slipping typically once it finished going around the second curve on the grade. There are several factors in play however at this point.
- What you mention above with the engine on the straight section and the rail cars on curves.
- The grade getting steeper at the end. Sadly this is the way it got installed. I attempted to even out the grade but still ended up with closer to 4 at the top of the hill and closer to 3 for the rest of it.
hey the cool thing with diesels is they are designed to be mu’d…
greg
A video of a Rock Island train with two USAT GP38s (without traction tires) pulling it up my double loop (before the upper yard layout was built). The loops include some straighter sections. The tracks are stainless steel.
Note at time 3:50 (3 minutes, 50 seconds into the video), the greatest amount wheel slip of the locos can be heard just after the locos exit the curve onto a fairly straight section of track where the train is almost stalled.
https://youtu.be/y2ssfzme8xY?t=208
Again, the train’s second run at time 10:24 shows the greatest wheel slip at the same location on the loop:
https://youtu.be/y2ssfzme8xY?t=624
(Tried both Joe Zullo’s and Eric Reuter’s instructions to embed videos and still can’t get them to work!)
-Ted
Works fine, following the instructions in the sticky… BUT when you edit the post, the video disappears…
And there seems to be a way to fix this, but it’s tricky… so just make a new post, embed the video and save… don’t do ANYTHING else.
Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
Works fine, following the instructions in the sticky… BUT when you edit the post, the video disappears…
And there seems to be a way to fix this, but it’s tricky… so just make a new post, embed the video and save… don’t do ANYTHING else.
Greg
The video code does not disappear when I edit my post and add text. Be advised that the embed code must contain the https:// in the YouTube url (not just http://).
It just did to me, so I took the easy route that always works!
I just tried to edit my post above and no code in it, completely blank. So, as I said, this is not consistent between browsers or operating systems, or something. So as always I recommend a procedure that always works… I’ve used computers since 1975 and I am not hallucinating, so for me, the youtube code disappears when editing a post. I did a bunch of testing before I posted.
Latest firefox, windows 10
Isn’t this fun?
I see Sean’s attempt to post my video did not show up in my Firefox browser, whereas Joe’s did.
The link URLs I provided, when clicked on, start the video at a specific time of interest.
Furthermore, I find embedding videos to be unworkable on this Web site and will not attempt to do so in the future until remedied without having to jump through hoops.
-Ted
I was able to clean the track and greatly improve my traction results. I did the following.
- Clean the track Rustoleum Wax and Tar Remover applying it to a dry swiffer cloth and cleaning the track. I let it sit for at least 10 minutes.
- Clean track with lighter fluid, applying it to a dry swiffer and cleaning the track.
- Clean the track with wet swiffers.
- Clean all stock car wheels using #1 then #2 allowing it to sit with #1 for a bit.
- Clean all the engine wheels with just lighter fluid.
Replace dry swiffer as it soils.
Track felt noticeably less slimy and trains ran much better, especially on inclines.
In the future I will apply the Amorall with a paint brush to minimize spray on the track. I will then do the same cleaning as in steps 1 through 3 above before running any trains.
I think that your wheels got the armorall on them.
I’ve had no traction problems and the wet swiffer has always removed the armorall for me.
I believe your step #4 was the crucial one. You got it on the wheels, and it redeposited it on the rails.
Been doing this for 10 years and 3.4% grade, so I would indeed notice loss in traction too if I was not cleaning it off.
I’m just saying all of this for 2 reasons:
First, you seem to be going to a lot more work than is necessary.
Second spraying it on, not only is way easier, but will apply it better and use less, the paintbrush will not get the nooks and crannies around the “spikes” that are also critical. On second thought, I do probably waste a bit spraying since I get the ballast too… so nix the use less advantage, so it’s really better and easier application.
Anyway, it’s clean now and you have your traction back, and you won’t have to do it again for 6 months or so.
Greg
You may very well be correct Greg. I definitely should have cleaned the track before running anything on it.
I may still go with the spray method for Amorall but will definitely clean the tracks using my steps. It will likely take multiple passes with a swifter anyways to get the rails clean so that the swifter doesn’t show dirt. I only plan to clean the tracks after applying Amorall as the rest of the time its has not really seemed needed.
Yeah, I got you Nicolas. Next Armorall application, I will test traction before and after and see if mine is affected. I do it every 6 months. So far the wet swiffer (pre moistened) SEEMS adequate, I have also been using the “original formula” Armorall brand, in the 1/2 gallon refill.
Greg
This (Amazon Link) is what I started with and then bought a refill locally that had similar label. I assume this is what you mean by original formula?
That’s right…that’s the best Armorall brand I have found… at one time they made some variations and they had weird characteristics. I think people complained and they went “back” to the “original” formula, which is actually NOT the original formula, which was more watery and had no UV blocker ha ha!
Sort of like original Coke…
Greg
I wish I had made a video of what the train was like climbing the grade before I cleaned it successfully. I will at some point soon make a video of it climbing to have a reference as to what is expected behavior for my engine.
Applied Amor All to all my tracks over a week ago, and proceeded to follow the same cleaning procedure. I was able to run trains fine a week ago, but then an impromptu run today had them slipping like crazy. The only thing I can think of that is different from the last time I did this is that it hasn’t rained.
Today I
- Lighter fluid on swifter scrub
- Tar and Wax Removal on swifter scrub
- Garden hose washing
- Drying with swifter.
There were few differences from the last time I did this.
- It has not rained at all.
- I cleaned the tracks immediately after spraying on the armor all vs waiting for it to dry.
- The wet swifter pads had dried out. I wet them with water but perhaps fresh ones would have been better.
I really wish I could find a process for applying the Amor All that wouldn’t mess with the rails.
Next up I am going to try drywall screen and another scrubbing. Washing with just the hose didn’t resolve the issue. Trains still slip.