Large Scale Central

Airwire / USA Trains

So not even 5 minutes into preparing to perform the install I hit my first snag…
I was wondering why I had a loose switch in the bag that contained the GP38 board, it’s because it fell off the board and it’s the power switch…

That really stinks. Hopefully your dealer will replace it, but no joy this weekend.

I am trying to fix it, found all the contact pieces and made sure I still had continuity when in the On position.
It might work…

good luck saw that in the pic i ? it to myself. check and see what size fuse it has if it is a 20amp change to a lower amp auto stores have them.

I think I have the switch fixed.
Still not understanding how the battery power will be isolated from the track…

Vin have you opened the 38 up yet? when you will see two sets of wires coming from each motor block one set is pick up from the track for power and the other is the motor there no connection between them. the axle gear is plastic so the motor is isolated. the connector from the airwire is to motor only.

have fun

Vincent, I don’t think the Airwire is set up for dual power (it could probably be done tho). Each truck has two sets of wires with plugs. The plugs with 4 wires are the track power input…these will be left unplugged when the factory board is pulled out. The other plug is the output to the motor…the airwire has a plug on each end of the board to connect with these.

It was a bit touch and go but I got it!
Didn’t realize until I started plugging everything in that the 4-wire connectors from the motor block did not get connected.
Now it makes sense on how it stays isolated from track power.
Biggest stumbling block was connecting the battery correctly!
Somehow I overlooked that I had to change the battery connector out as the battery I purchased had a connector already installed…
When I changed the connector out using 1 of the 2 connector assemblies provided I didn’t notice that they were actually different.
The first one I connected and used actually reversed the polarity when connected to the battery lead from the AirWire board! While soldering the connector to the battery I matched up Black to black & red to red… but it was actually reversed when connected to the board.
Took about 20 minutes to figure out why I had sound but the motors wouldn’t work, and when I turned the motor power switch to the on position it would shut off the sound!

Once I soldered the correct wiring harness on everything worked as it should have.

Now before I reassemble everything I need to figure out how to program everything, but that is going to wait until tomorrow… its time to watch football!

sounds good only took you a afternoon even with a bad switch. what was wrong with the switch bad solder at the board or did the cover come off?

The cover came off, I guess in shipping.
Luckily the two little contact pieces that go inside the switch slider block did not get lost.
Put it back together, bent the little metal tabs over best I could, then used some goop to help secure the cover.
Now that is installed and screwed down it should be okay.

Here are some quick pics of the install.
Used some left over Piko building parts to elevate the battery above the truck mount screw:
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/139vinny/Trains/gp3_zpsaf5732c4.png)

Cut the hole in the chassis for the new Airwire board and mounted the P8 soundcard:

Mounted the AirWire drop in:
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/139vinny/Trains/gp4_zps799e0a9f.png)

Added the battery:

(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/139vinny/Trains/gp5_zps343fd5ea.png)

Did some testing!
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/139vinny/Trains/gp2_zpsa2b8d7f9.png)

Everything seems to work, just not sure if I connected the smoke units correctly or not… instructions were not really clear for me.
Guess I will find out soon enough!
Just need to neaten up the wires a bit and close it back up, add all the engine railings etc.

Vin did you add the P8 program jack in the fuel tank? Looks good.

Looks nice!

Good call on the MEC paint scheme btw…

We’ve been serioulsy considering one since going to Ro’s over the the summer. My junior engineer, however, is more of a B&M girl…maybe we need both. If only the AML GP60 would materialize (or fully vanish), I would be able to make some locomotive decisions again.

Vin here are my MEC both have older airwire dropins

photo P1244213_zps332baa15.jpg

Richard Beverly said:

Vin did you add the P8 program jack in the fuel tank? Looks good.

I ordered the P8 with the GP38 sounds already programmed into it, after I checked it out and made sure everything worked I decided not to add the program jack.
Plus… I don’t know if I would be able to program it on my own anyway!

Rockwall Canyon Jeff said:

Looks nice!

Good call on the MEC paint scheme btw…

We’ve been serioulsy considering one since going to Ro’s over the the summer. My junior engineer, however, is more of a B&M girl…maybe we need both. If only the AML GP60 would materialize (or fully vanish), I would be able to make some locomotive decisions again.

I am more of a B&M fan myself, but the colors of the MEC caught my attention and it was available in a GP38 which surprisingly I did not have any in my locomotive roster… so it made for a good excuse to get it!

Richard Beverly said:

Vin here are my MEC both have older airwire dropins

photo P1244213_zps332baa15.jpg

Nice!
The only things I have left to do is figure out the smoke unit through the remote & add Kadee couplers.

(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/139vinny/Trains/DSC03736_zps3e9b88d0.jpg)

Vin all i’m saying is it is easier to add now then later and there are a few of us with the programmer that would help you out at the most 15 min. to do and right now all you need to do is a 1/4 in. hole i think and some hot glue. Stock dropin is F2 for smoke but it will also sound the horn. Also some do not like the bell to come on every time you move, that can be turned off.

Now you a nice travel loc. to bring to Bobs

Does anyone know how old a engine can be to use the AirWire drop in boards?
I have a bunch of older USAT locomotives but most are 2005 or earlier, and one is a F3 that I bought a little over a year ago.
I am thinking the F3 would be the safest bet, but I would really like to convert a older GP30 that I have.
How can you tell when opening them up if they would take the new board or not?