While waiting on some Mason Bogie parts I have decided on using the left over parts to build a small side tank industrial tank engine. Took the two cab sections and mated them together and glued the two pieces of leftover roofs together. Found the side tanks from a LGB 2017 engine that came off of Rosy, cut off the tab and started filling in some of the holes. Found that the width of the two coupled with a 3/4" PVC coupling was the same width as the cab. Added the wood bunker from the original Lionel 0-6-0 to the back and shortened a left over frame from a previous butcher job after modifying it to match the motor housing of a newer 2017 block. Still working on a water filler saddle for the side tanks and but did come across a smoke box front of a 2010 which I added to a plastic hole plug and fits nicely into the 1" coupling, Added the fire box left over from the sacrificed Spreewald (Mason Bogie drive) and it starting to com together. Today I added rivet detail to the 2 side tanks and gave a light coat of primer. Rivets are actually 1/2 round 2 mm plastic beads glued to the side of the tanks, time consuming but not near as bad as individual holes for each rivet. Still have to find a motor for the motor block as I bought it without but it was new and unused and in great shape and has all the looks of American valving. Think I’ll call this engine “old Joe” will post more as the build moves along.

I resemble that “Old Joe” remark! (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

BTW, it looks Great Bill. (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

Cool project! Small is beautiful!

Nice work, Bill! I’ll predict she’ll be one of your faves.

Thanks everyone, and Joe it was the other Joe not Joe you, LOL

Moving along, decided I would try the rust look using rock salt, didn’t quite go like the youtube but good enough. Used an oil base rattle can and think it would have probably worked better using acrylic air brush paint. The problem I had with the oil base was it stuck down the salt too well and wound out having to soak it in water for about 1/2 day and still had to scrape some of it off but it gave the result I was looking for so live and learn, using individual rivets, although a pain to install worked out well , had bought some self stick ones thinking I could bypass the gluing step but that didn’t work out either. Found that the beads wouldn’t come off the shipping paper and left gooey mess around them and found it very hard to position correctly. Got a little paint on the cab and trying to get it to look like old faded wood, and still have a ways to go. Will up date when I get something else done, Bill

Rivets and weathering look great, Bill. Thanks for letting us know what you are learning as you go.

[edited to fix a typo]

Jim, when you did the rust on your truck did you use an airbrush? Had terrible problem with salt too well adhered using a rattle can, of course yellow is semi transparent so I had to use quite a bit to cover.Bill

Yes, used an airbrush and tru-color paints. Worked like a charm…

Thanks, I’ll try that next time, but I will say the way I did it sure left a lot of junk at the rust sites.

still piddling with Old Joe, been cold here in central Florida east coast and being as my work area is on an open porch I haven gotten a lot done, but things that I have done are time consuming taking planning and thought. Finally figured out how to secure the lead weight in the engine and at the same time secure the boiler to the frame and that was using a furniture fitting that screws into wood an provides machine screw threads in the middle. Put it in the hole that the factory smoke stack went thru and will be held in place with a 1/4 X 20 SS bolt. Then at the same time I secured the cab with 2/56 screws on either side of the side cab openings after building up the area with styrene, in the picture that are a bright silver but will be changing them out for black hex head ones. Found some old steps from a LGB European coach and added them to the cab under the doors openings. The wood bunker is clipped on to the back of the cab and is secured from underneath with screws just like the factory one was so the cab will hold the rear of the boiler and the SS screw will hold the front. Little inside work, I painted on the wood load to give it more of a real appearance and it came out pretty good also dabbed some on the cab to give it a faded wood look. Think I’m going to try some cloth on the cab roof to give it a canvas look. Still have the side tanks to secure and a front bolster with coupler and coupler in the rear, more to come, Bill

Got a little more done, working on the smoke stack, I wanted something that was whimsical and cute, so like a lot on my engines I use the smoke stack for a handle, with this in mind I decided on using a brass tube, needing a finishing touch for the stack I found a 3/8" flare nut that was almost the same size that I could tap to the 1/8" pipe thread and screw on the top. Once I got it shaped by chucking it up in a drill and attacking the grinder with it I had something that looked ok but was too big so I decided on cutting it down to size by again chucking it up in the drill and then attacking a hacksaw blade the I secured in a vice. After re taping the messed up threads I got it secured on, shortened the threads so it didn’t stick out the top and then counter sunk the center to give it a tapered look. Little coat of silver paint and now just waiting to weather it, happy with the out come, I know it’s not scale but think it is just the right touch to bring Old Joe to life

Little more done today, got the cribbing for the wood box finished, painted and installed, but most the time was spent on figuring type, location and mounting of the front coupler. Luckily I found in my collection of Kadee couplers a centerset short gear box # 835 couple which enabled me to mount it to a wood beam and both secured to a small flat protruding plate that is on 2010 engines, there were some angled supports molded in underneath which I had to remove but a sharp chisel made short work of them. The wood beam is actually PVC board that I had ripped sometime ago to make supports for my water tower. The wantabe cow catcher is one left over from a Bachmann Big hauler tender that has excellent forgiveness in the crash department and is great for bending without breakage and gives the build the appearance of a working yard engine. I then secured every thing with 2/56 screws and nuts which can be seen in the picture as silvery dots but will get covered with grimy paint soon. Still trying to find a suitable material to make my canvas roof with, suggestion are welcome. Will post when further achievements are made, Bill

Adding details to engine, got air piping along with the air compressor attached to the starboard side water tank + a bell attached to the vertical front of the engine cab and on the port side a air tank, tied the air piping and the air tank together with a pine made from metal wire covered vinyl, also added some hand rails on top of the water tanks for workers that came off and old aristo 0-4-0. Ran across a couple of head lights that I could incorporate into the engine but initially I was not going to put any headlights because it was thought engine only worked during the day, still thinking about that. Also started weathering the engine but a lot left to do, more to come, Bill

Well, even if the locomotive only works during the day, regulations require a headlight (except in certain situations), as a warning device. Unless of course the locomotive doesn’t operate in in United States, then it would be subject to regulations where it operates.

Thanks David, I knew that but for some reason that just didn’t register with my brain, front or both?

Bill,

I have been using Muslin cloth forever for car and loco roofs,

JoAnns Fabrics about a buck a yard last time I got some.

Good texture and a yard goes a long, long way.

Bill Barnwell said:

Thanks David, I knew that but for some reason that just didn’t register with my brain, front or both?

Many steam locomotive only had a front headlight. But where the locomotive usually runs in both directions, they will have a headlight on both ends.