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  • Topic: New Here & Starting A Small Indoor Layout

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    • August 19, 2019 5:17 PM EDT
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      New Here & Starting A Small Indoor Layout

      Hello Everyone! First I apologize for any spelling errors, I cant see. Lol. Broke my glasses 2 days ago, and I can't see anything close up.


      I'm about to start building my indoor layout, hope to start this week but I need some help. I have all track and digital stuff bought. I'm going to be using 2" foam insulation board glued down with liquid nails for projects. Now the questions.
      What's the best way to fasten the track down, I'm using Piko track, would nailing work on foam.


      What should I use for ballast?


      I'm converting all switches to DCC and would like to do a bus line for that along with extra power points for the rails. What's a good bus?


      In the picture, the blue lines will indicate an area of track that will be pulled out to allow for a door to open then close...


      Any and all help would be appreciated.


      Thanks,
      Steve

      20190818_004028.jpg (155.73 Kb)
      This post was edited by Steve at August 19, 2019 6:52 PM EDT
    • August 19, 2019 5:58 PM EDT
      • Denver, Colorado
         
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      Hiya, Steve, and wellcome!

       

      Here's your picture. If you want to call me (email me and I'll call you or give you my number) and I can walk you through how to post pictures here. I'd love to see your progress, and, like we say, no pictures and it didn't happen:

       

       

      ____________________________________

    • August 19, 2019 6:40 PM EDT
      • Waverly, Alabama
         
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      Welcome aboard the looney train, Steve.  Well, not everyone here is looney, just me, Rooster  and a few others.  All joking aside, there are a lot of great modelers here all willing to help.  One big question everyone will want to know is what is the size of your layout space?  Also, are you building for roundy, round or operations or both?  I'm sure others will chime in with more questions.  Look forward to seeing your layout come to life and as John has pointed out, around here pictures are king and no one will believe any progress has been made without them 

      ____________________________________

       

    • August 19, 2019 9:49 PM EDT
      • Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
         
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      Nails don't work well on foam. I use a latex caulk/adhesive, or Locktite Powergrab to glue down my HO track on foam. It should work just as well on gauge 1 track.

       

      Outdoors I use crushed limestone for ballast, I would think indoors you could also use a crushed stone product.

       

      I would think 14 gauge or 12 gauge stranded wire, like lamp cord, would work just fine indoors.

       

      I am sure there are other opinions soon to be posted. Consider them all (except Rooster's) and chose what will work the best for you.

      ____________________________________

      Shannon car Shops
      Home of the infamous leg lamp

      I.A.R.R.R. Member #12

      and King Butt Modeler

    • August 19, 2019 10:19 PM EDT
      • Smoggy L.A., Left Coast
         
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      Loctite Powergrab is my go to adhesive if you can find any railclamps it's best if you clamp down the switches and do not glue or screw the switches down. If you ever have to remove or replace on your can simply unscrew the clamps and lift it out. Same for ballast, Don't adhere it down on switches. Are you planning on DCC or rc/battery or simple DC track power?

      Also is this a stand alone layout in a room or will you be able to walk around the sides, asking about reach issues I see.

      This post was edited by Vic Smith at August 19, 2019 10:22 PM EDT
      ____________________________________
      Have fun with your trains
    • August 19, 2019 11:40 PM EDT
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      John Passaro said:

      Hiya, Steve, and wellcome!

       

      Here's your picture. If you want to call me (email me and I'll call you or give you my number) and I can walk you through how to post pictures here. I'd love to see your progress, and, like we say, no pictures and it didn't happen:

       

       

       

      Thanks for adding the pic.  I usually do videos, but will take some pictures as well.  Hoping to start this Wednesday, but still a lot of unanswered questions. Lol

       

    • August 19, 2019 11:47 PM EDT
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      Dan Hilyer said:

      Welcome aboard the looney train, Steve.  Well, not everyone here is looney, just me, Rooster  and a few others.  All joking aside, there are a lot of great modelers here all willing to help.  One big question everyone will want to know is what is the size of your layout space?  Also, are you building for roundy, round or operations or both?  I'm sure others will chime in with more questions.  Look forward to seeing your layout come to life and as John has pointed out, around here pictures are king and no one will believe any progress has been made without them 

       

      Well, let's see, hmmmm...   the layout will be basically a 8x12 with a small section in the middle cut out for me.  It's basically taking up the whole room, so the layout is hard to reach on the outsides near the walls.  I'll probably have to use a step stool to lay track.  Since it's small, I tend to probably just run trains and hope the boredom won't set in.  I do have two points at the top, where I'm hoping to add more track into another room...  hopefully soon, because I don't have enough space for all my equipment. Lol 

      This post was edited by Steve at August 22, 2019 9:04 PM EDT
    • August 19, 2019 11:49 PM EDT
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      David Maynard said:

      Nails don't work well on foam. I use a latex caulk/adhesive, or Locktite Powergrab to glue down my HO track on foam. It should work just as well on gauge 1 track.

       

      Outdoors I use crushed limestone for ballast, I would think indoors you could also use a crushed stone product.

       

      I would think 14 gauge or 12 gauge stranded wire, like lamp cord, would work just fine indoors.

       

      I am sure there are other opinions soon to be posted. Consider them all (except Rooster's) and chose what will work the best for you.

       

      Any idea on the size of the crushed stone?  And thanks for the suggestions, I'll have to see what I can find for the adhesive.

    • August 19, 2019 11:55 PM EDT
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      Vic Smith said:

      Loctite Powergrab is my go to adhesive if you can find any railclamps it's best if you clamp down the switches and do not glue or screw the switches down. If you ever have to remove or replace on your can simply unscrew the clamps and lift it out. Same for ballast, Don't adhere it down on switches. Are you planning on DCC or rc/battery or simple DC track power?

      Also is this a stand alone layout in a room or will you be able to walk around the sides, asking about reach issues I see.

       

      Hi Vic.  I'll have to get some Piko rail lamps then, never thought about having problems since the switch mechanism is actually bought separately and screwed on to the switch.  The layout will be DCC, using Piko's DCC system, and you guessed right, there will be a reach issue.  The layout takes up basically the whole room, with no access to 3 of the sides or at least good access.

      Thanks again..

      Steve

       

      This post was edited by Steve at August 19, 2019 11:59 PM EDT
    • August 20, 2019 12:20 AM EDT
      • Shut Up Rooster
         
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      It appears you are using R1 (4 foot diameter) switches except for the outer mainline.

       

      I think you can use R3 switches for the 2 crossovers between the outer and inner mains, that would allow much larger locos to navigate into the outer loop.

       

      Glue track down, no nails, use a few books or weights to hold it down while gluing.

       

      Greg

       

       

      ____________________________________

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    • August 20, 2019 1:06 AM EDT
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      Greg Elmassian said:

      It appears you are using R1 (4 foot diameter) switches except for the outer mainline.

       

      I think you can use R3 switches for the 2 crossovers between the outer and inner mains, that would allow much larger locos to navigate into the outer loop.

       

      Glue track down, no nails, use a few books or weights to hold it down while gluing.

       

      Greg

       

      Hi,

      Using R3 would mean inner loop would have to be r1 curves if it would even fit..  I'll have to try it out and see.  I did originally try r3 but the difference between tracks was to big..

       

      Steve

       

    • August 20, 2019 2:43 AM EDT
      • Shut Up Rooster
         
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      just the switches for the 2 crossovers between the inner and outer loop... you might have to use a more normal switch like a #6... not the switches that match a curve exactly.

       

      Greg

      ____________________________________

      Be sure­ to visit ­my site, l­ots of tec­hnical tip­s and modi­fications,­ and you c­an search ­for topics­ and key w­ords.


      ­Click HERE for Greg­'s web sit­e
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    • August 20, 2019 6:28 AM EDT
      • Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
         
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      The crushed stone I use is 1/4 inch down to dust. Indoors you won't need the dust component of the stone, so you could use a cleaner variety of crushed stone.

      ____________________________________

      Shannon car Shops
      Home of the infamous leg lamp

      I.A.R.R.R. Member #12

      and King Butt Modeler

    • August 20, 2019 7:26 AM EDT
      • Milwaukee, Wi
         
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      Welcome to the micro-Railroad club! I’ve got a small outdoor one I put down this summer and the folks here have been of great help to me. 

    • August 20, 2019 9:15 AM EDT
      • Easton , Massachusetts
         
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      Start off small .. do the outer loop and get a train running first....You might rethink your track plan once you see how it looks not on paper.. 

      Welcome aboard the crazy train....

      This post was edited by Sean McGillicuddy at August 20, 2019 12:15 PM EDT
      ____________________________________

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    • August 20, 2019 10:30 AM EDT
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      Bill Sakalaucks said:

      Welcome to the micro-Railroad club! I’ve got a small outdoor one I put down this summer and the folks here have been of great help to me. 

      Thanks.  I'd really like to hit the outdoors but my knowledge isn't all that great. Lol

    • August 20, 2019 10:32 AM EDT
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      Sean McGillicuddy said:

      Start off small .. do the outer loop and get a train running first....You might rethink your track plan once you see how it looks not on paper.. 

      Welcome aboard the crazy train....

      As much as I spent on track.  Lol  . I Better not change my mind.  I will admit though i think I have too much track for the space I have.  But we'll see where I'm at this Saturday.

    • August 20, 2019 10:33 AM EDT
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      Anyone have suggestion on type of paint to paint the foam board?

    • August 20, 2019 11:38 AM EDT
      • Shut Up Rooster
         
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      typical household acrylic latex should not attack the foam.

       

      On the crossovers, you have plenty of room to use longer switches, since you have some straight track adjacent.

       

      The track to track spacing using the Piko R7 switches for your crossovers may work...  you might have to trim them a bit. I have crossovers between my 2 mains with Aristo #6 and the track to track spacing is about 9.5"

       

       

       

      ____________________________________

      Be sure­ to visit ­my site, l­ots of tec­hnical tip­s and modi­fications,­ and you c­an search ­for topics­ and key w­ords.


      ­Click HERE for Greg­'s web sit­e
      PLEASE NOT­E: Please do NOT use private messaging, i­f you have­ a questio­n, feel fr­ee to emai­l me priva­tely, u­se regular­ email onl­y: greg@el­massian.co­m

    • August 20, 2019 12:02 PM EDT
      • San Mateo, California
         
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      Hi Steve, and welcome.

      What type and how big locos and cars are you planning to run on your layout?

      Given the relatively tight curves and turnouts previously described, it looks like you will be limited to smaller items with short lengths and wheel base like, for example, a narrow gauge logging railroad.

      -Ted

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