Getting pretty close to done with this Railtruck. I wanted to experiment with Railpro and since they don’t yet have a high amp board for G-scale, I built this using a Hartland Mack power truck. I used a diecast newray cab and designed/3d printed frame, the front truck is O-scale that I widened, bed is coffee sticks and for the stake sides I used O scale corrugated siding. I thinking of adding a bull bar and I want to get rid of the horns. Anyone know what is best for filling holes in diecast?
Dan Gilchrist said:
Getting pretty close to done with this Railtruck. I wanted to experiment with Railpro and since they don’t yet have a high amp board for G-scale, I built this using a Hartland Mack power truck. I used a diecast newray cab and designed/3d printed frame, the front truck is O-scale that I widened, bed is coffee sticks and for the stake sides I used O scale corrugated siding. I thinking of adding a bull bar and I want to get rid of the horns. Anyone know what is best for filling holes in diecast?
How about “Bondo 907 Glazing and Spot Putty”? (Do you have any pictures???)
Sorry., Was having a bit of trouble putting up the pics.
That is a neat looking rail truck. The lights and horn sound are good. I would leave the horns on for looks plus you have the sound of a train horn and that has to come from somewhere. In the real world I think they would leave the horns on a converted truck like that.
If you remove them instead of filling the holes why not put yellow rotating gumball lights or spotlights?
Bruce Chandler said:
Dan Gilchrist said:
Getting pretty close to done with this Railtruck. I wanted to experiment with Railpro and since they don’t yet have a high amp board for G-scale, I built this using a Hartland Mack power truck. I used a diecast newray cab and designed/3d printed frame, the front truck is O-scale that I widened, bed is coffee sticks and for the stake sides I used O scale corrugated siding. I thinking of adding a bull bar and I want to get rid of the horns. Anyone know what is best for filling holes in diecast?
How about “Bondo 907 Glazing and Spot Putty”? (Do you have any pictures???)
Hmm, I Hadn’t looked at automotive putty as I figured I would need to buy a tub of it and all I need is a tiny bit. I see the Bondo 907 comes in a 4.5 oz tube. Maybe I’ll grab some of that. would it be necessary to prep the holes in some way? I was thinking of drilling from the back with a slightly larger bit bit to create a recess.
I would probably just remove the paint in the hole you’re filling. Beyond that, I don’t know if you need to do much else.
Todd Haskins said:
That is a neat looking rail truck. The lights and horn sound are good. I would leave the horns on for looks plus you have the sound of a train horn and that has to come from somewhere. In the real world I think they would leave the horns on a converted truck like that.
If you remove them instead of filling the holes why not put yellow rotating gumball lights or spotlights?
Thanks, I’m just experimenting with the Railpro system. I plan to use more appropriate sounds when they become available. May replace one horn with a train one. Good idea. Maybe I will add more lights. I am planning on lighting the running lights on top as well.
Cool truck. You could also use Squadron putty to fix the holes.
-Kevin.
That is just too freeking cool.
Usually the Bondo products suggest that you primer the metal before applying the Bondo. So you might want to put a dab of automotive primer in the holes after you remove the horns. But, how are you going to match the paint?
David Maynard said:
That is just too freeking cool.
Usually the Bondo products suggest that you primer the metal before applying the Bondo. So you might want to put a dab of automotive primer in the holes after you remove the horns. But, how are you going to match the paint?
Good question. I figured I’d get a close match then weathering? I need to fill the holes in the doors where I removed the mirrors as well.
Here are a couple of the 3d printed parts you can’t see. I designed them so I could fasten using the original screw holes under the cab. Also, the Power truck press fits.
Speaker Box
Power truck press fits? Then how does it swivel?
David Maynard said:
Power truck press fits? Then how does it swivel?
Doesn’t have to. The front truck swivels.
I based this on the idea of a rail-only version of the Alaskan “Tundra Truck” http://www.alaskarails.org/potw-archive/2000/JC-tundra.html
Does anyone know of anything like this? I did come across this “Bush Jigger” built in 1948 and still running today.
I got a kick out of them turning it around.
Ken Brunt said:
David Maynard said:
Power truck press fits? Then how does it swivel?
Doesn’t have to. The front truck swivels.
(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif)
That Tundra Truck is nothing more than a Hi-Railer used by the RR’s for track maintenance.
Ken Brunt said:
That Tundra Truck is nothing more than a Hi-Railer used by the RR’s for track maintenance.
I just re-read my post. I meant does anyone know of anything like what I built? Post 1950 rail only heavy duty truck.
Actually the Tundra truck delivers supplies to folks living “out there”
Dan, most modern hi railers are still road trucks with retractable rail wheels. So, no, I don’t know of anything quite like you built. But I still think that what you built is way cool.
Nice job!
Dan Gilchrist said:
I just re-read my post. I meant does anyone know of anything like what I built? Post 1950 rail only heavy duty truck.
Actually the Tundra truck delivers supplies to folks living “out there”
It’s your RailRoad, you can run anything you want. Neat idea!..(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
