Having converted all of my switches to snap switches, [don’t know if that is the term] a few years ago using .032 brass rod, I need to replace all the brass rod to steel wire. Is there a source where I can get the steel wire and should it be SS and is .032 the correct size.
I use spring steel, not stainless and I found mine at a hobby shop for R/C airplanes. They have many sizes …
I’ve never had one rust out, but since the wire isn’t expensive and my design has 3 bends it’s easy to make replacements…
John
Thanks John. I’ll check out the hobby shop in town.
I think what your looking for is called piano wire and it is very hard.
Difficult to bend but will last forever, works well for switch throws because
it has a built in “springeness” that brass or steel wire doesn’t have
Rick
Piano wire is available at your LHS. That’s the stuff you want.
Go to Lowes. In the screw/bolt section they have pull out drawers. They have a few labeled hobby. They should have the wire in there as well as other brass sheets etc…
If the “help” at Lowes can’t help you, try McMaster-Carr. They have lots of everything; I don’t know where they are located, but they have very quick delivery for me near Washington, DC.
Our local Hobby Lobby also has piano wire in multiple diameters. Just purchased some yesterday.
I used safety pins and cut and bent the ends. They do rust, but you get a box of 100 for $3.
I have two switches that are located way out in the hinterlands, too far to be operated by my pneumatic system. Can anyone point me to a thread about bending the wire once you got it? (All the times I’ve seen people’s designs when I didn’t need it!)
Jack
This is the way I 've done it:
This is an old design I’ve used for 40 years;
By moving the spring to the other small hole (see rust stain) the action can be either one way (as set now) or a ‘flop over’ by having the holes off set or lined up. The motor is moving the points compresses the spring and releasing them either has them return or continue…
To set up the flop over I drill in the stock tie and then I center the points and drill the 2nd hole in line.
You do not need to be exact with your bends as long as an arm can spring some …
John
I thought they’re more convoluted than that. I must’ve seen them in my HO days; maybe they’re different when smaller.
Should be doable - thanks.
Jack
Some folks add a loop where I make the 90(ish) degree bend. It doesn’t take much pressure to hold the points to the stock rail, any more makes it harder to throw and can derail pony truck wheels.
Free, the spring would describe an arc as it moves from side to side. The tie bar travels in a straight line. Therefor the spring gets compressed as it travels. Set with the holes opposite, momentum allows the points to flop over. Off set holes sends them back to where they started.
Keeping the points clean and easy to move is important.
John