Large Scale Central

Hale & Norcross

Oh no, we need Intelligent Plans? Dang that kicks me out!

To top it off I went completely stupid, staining my stainless! Some daze I just sit at the top of the steps and ponder my warm track … different shades of brown ties reflect the environment conveyed in wood and rocks and exquisite (said Pooh modestly) rails of splotchy red rust and oranges too.

Cooled off some today; 107 F, in the shade, the arthritis in check and plenty of peanuts for the p-nut god to toss to the amazed critters. Yes I am feeling much better. Why do you ask?(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif) Oh … the arthritis is in non opiod check, it’s cool.

I love your building, go big! I wonder if they remember mountain #1 has a man cave!

Treat your family right for being so understanding.

I’d play trains with you any day.

John

Cliff Jennings said: So I’m really looking forward to the stage when I can peel the paper off and dry-fit the core pieces.

Me too that’s a big SOB!

Hey Rooster, roger that! I need to get a weight on the modules, just for grins…

Hey OJ, dittos back, thanks. Wish I could fly out there and see you run your trains, but oh well.

I hope tomorrow night to finish up the checking, then on to pattern making.

Thanks guys for participating with me on this! You both, and everyone else.

I’m about done with the patterns, here’s a composite shot of the sheets.

About 87 sq ft. This is for the core structure: walls, bases & roofs. Weight of these items (without sheathing, details, etc.) after cutting is about 57 lbs.

Cheers,

Cliff

OMG!!!

Are we there yet?

When was the last time you saw the family?(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

Wow.

John

Not quite there yet John, haha! I’ve cut 4.5 sheets in the last 3 hours, and am finally getting things set right. So, maybe 45min/sheet… let’s see, maybe I’ll finish cutting Monday?

And roger that, I’m mixing time with the fam, so this isn’t a full time gig. But it’s sure nice having the long weekend for this!!

On the process side, I discovered a few improvements today.

  • The RDWorks software can default to Inches (vs MM) for DXF import. I was getting tired of up-scaling in Acad, and having to repeat that with any subsequent pattern alterations (I’ll always think in Imperial, too old to change).
  • I was having trouble cutting to the max dimensions of the cutter, which I really need to do. The bed is slightly smaller than the cut range; and its peripheral frame pushes up the sheet stock if you want the max. So… Aha! Take scraps of acrylic and put those on the bed; and lay the cutting stock on them. That way it clears the frame, and stays flat.
  • BUT, whether I do or don’t use spacers, little chips of stock (especially with all these tabs) tend to make trouble, slightly lifting up the stock, making the laser not focus well for cutting, and the part not bring cut all the way through. SO, I’ll now clear the deck with each sheet (including support material, have a shop brush handy, and use that to be sure the supports are clear.
  • After figuring out the best position of a max-size sheet, I made some marks (on masking tape) on the frame to help repeat that position.
  • Overlapping pattern linework will make the laser repeat that overlapping, wasting time. So in the pattern, I’ve been forcing parts to have coincident edges, and then combine those edges into single lines where possible. This is done in Autocad; and the new (as of 2012?) “Overkill” command does exactly this in about a second.

Cutting sheet #6 now. I have to keep this laptop plugged into the cutter, so having a little work table and proper lighting here makes the process pleasant enough. I’ve been force to alternate between prepping / loading, and doing various things around the shop during the cutting. I should be printing some 3D parts now, but I’d rather post here. And play Minesweeper. :wink:

BTW, to get to this point of 2D pattern-making, I needed to do a few things in the 3D model.

  • Check for interferences between each and every part / element, and make corrections (that took some time…)
  • Final checks with the prototype models, to see if I could live with these results (I found a couple big screw-ups there, which I’ve fixed)

Here’s been my process after that:

  • Set up drawing views in the 3D program (in Solidworks, they’re called “drawings”)
  • Export (from SW) the linework files in DXF or DWG
  • Nest and optimize the 2D linework for my max sheet size (I use Autocad for this)
  • Reduce redundant linework using the Autocad Overkill command
  • Export, on a per-sheet basis, to DXF
  • From RDWorks, per sheet, import the DXF file
  • Load the cutter, and run the file

Others’ processes will vary, but that’s been mine so far.

And BTW OJ, THX for the OMG, it MMD!

==_>Cliffy

I’m done with the lasering, woo hoo! At least for this core structure. Here’s the pile:

Tomorrow, I’ll make like Norman Vincent and peel all day. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

Nice looking pile of plastic Cliffy.

Chris

My question is, would you have done all this if you only had a scroll saw, LOL LOL , now that is a big fat NO, that is a real wow factor in the plastic pieces. now you get to experience the normal lasering process that so many people has no idea what is encountered. All the layout time, now all the assembly, lasering is actually the small amount of time. Assembly will be fun to watch, thanks for sharing

Dennis

Hey Dennis, I agree, no way on the scroll saw! I tried that foam model, and that was tough enough; but no precision and messy. And I agree, all that design & layout time, but the cutting was easy. I only spent about 5 minutes loading per sheet, and did other things during the actual cutting. I appreciate your viewing and comments!

Thanks Chris, it sure was a big pile. Almost too big to get a handle on. So the first thing I did this morning was to organize it into manageable smaller piles, representing core (on the left) and roof (on the right) structures for the four modules.

Then I began dry-fitting module #4, the ore bin. And the wall tabs would not fit into the base! After quite some time sanding and grinding, I got them together, worrying if all other fits would face the same mistake. On the other hand, I’d slightly increased the gap distance from my first laser building model, and that one went together fine. I was very puzzled.

However, all the rest of #4’s parts went together great; and so did #3’s. So it was an issue apparently with just the base panel of #4. Maybe I’d gotten the laser focus off on that sheet.

Here’s those 2 modules dry-fitted.

I’ve explained the blue thing before, but probably should again here. I got this material at half price from the local plastics vendor, after asking “What do you need to get rid of, in 3/16 inch thickness?” Answer: “Well, I have four sheets of this blue that no one wants…” Done deal! But what I didn’t consider then was light blocking; and in my test building project I had to spray the interior black. The paint didn’t seem to adhere well though. So this time, I pre-sanded the acrylic, and will shoot the interior with plastic primer and then black. Window glazing will go in with the windows, after the sheathing is done.

Long story short: next time I’ll pay full price for opaque black acrylic. More expensive than clear, but the sanding & painting steps are done away with. I might even consider using 1/4" through-colored material, and engrave the boards directly (vs. the .03 adhered sheathing). But THAT would be really expensive, especially with the shipping. But for now, I’m using what I’ve committed to for this project.

Tomorrow I hope to fit up the big modules. There may be additional slottage issues, who knows. But once I get through that I’ll put the modules on the layout for grins.

===>Cliffy

On plastic, go to an automotive store and get a can of bulldog, it will bond the paint to any plastics

Dennis

Thanks for the tip Dennis, will do.

Couldn’t you leave the paper backing on one side instead of painting? Even notching for the tabs seems faster…

John

I agree, and that was my plan; and to also just paint the papered interior. But things got sticky with removing paper for the exposed areas to be painted, under eaves, around bases, etc. The paper was torn in quite a few places and sometimes stained with recent cat pee… so I made the last minute decision to peel, sand and paint. Again, next time I’ll start with opaque black acrylic!

Well, I didn’t quite make my goal today, but I did finish dry-fitting the 2nd largest module, and got most of the paper off for the largest one.

But I’ll pick it up on the weekend.

Thanks for viewing,

===>Cliffy

Cliff if you have a problem removing the paper, get a jug of Goop off , let the Goop off soak for 15 minutes and the paper peels right off.

Dennis

Thanks Dennis, I’ll try that on the next model.

I’ve been getting pricing on the exterior materials (sheathing, shingles, decking). I’d put in a lot of effort to nest the parts well, but cringed after the quote I got. So I’m making serious optimizing measures where I can, and trying to tighten the belt where possible. Some notes, FWIW:

  • It’s not been easy to find UV-resistant acrylic in through-colored opaque sheets (especially in anything over 1/8" thickness)
  • When you find the right color, you may not necessarily find the right thickness
  • Acrylic colors are usually translucent, not opaque
  • You have to work with the vendors on sheet size they’re able to provide (and you can afford to have shipped) (which may affect your pattern layouts)
  • It can be an iterative process (patterns, calculations, quotations)

I’m getting closer to ordering, but I’m not there yet. Quotes are coming in as high as I feared; but the frugal side of me wants to keep nesting and designing and finding efficiencies. But I gotta pinch it off at some point, order stuff, and cut it.

Onward and upward!

Cliff

Don’t worry Cliffy, if it costs to much another member of your household will “pinch it off” for you. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

Ain’t that the truth Brutha! Sort of a self-regulating system.

I was tempted to go back to white styrene sheet for the wall sheathing, laser-engraved and painted like before. But I’d like to use the colored material at least once, to have a comparison for the future. Even though it will cost quite a bit more.