I am at the stage where I want to install something to allow trains to pass from one loop to the other and vice versa.
First option would be a diamond Crossing which would involve the purchase of 4 sets of turnouts and a crossing.
Second option would be to use a double slip which in the purchasing stakes is a far cheaper option plus there is the requirement for less space.
The majority of my locos are short wheelbase with the exception of an LGB 0-6-0 diesel, a Bachman “Connie” and a Bachmann 3 truck shay.
I know that the Shay and the diesel will squeeze around the LGB R1 curves of some of my points but I am not sure about the “Connie” although it does have flangeless wheels for the inner 2 drivers.
Has anybody used a double slip and if so what success did you have?
What is the radius of the LGB double slip I have seen quoted as R2?
Wiring polarity etc. is not an issue as I run Battery R/C locos.
I am just exploring options at the moment and the LGB one seem reasonably priced but the TrainLi one would require a second mortgage.
Does anybody else make double slips?

I must add that I am in Australia and postage/freight is an expensive consideration.

I did the 90 degree crossover and 4 of LGB’s R3 switches over 15 years ago and it still works for me. Makes my minimum curves on the 2 loops at 8 foot diameter, however one straight through loop is 10 foot diameter on a large loop using 2 of the LGB 18000 switches.

First option would be a diamond Crossing which would involve the purchase of 4 sets of turnouts and a crossing.
Second option would be to use a double slip which in the purchasing stakes is a far cheaper option plus there is the requirement for less space.

The first option allows two trains to operate without hitting each other. A double slip would provide a single point of contact where they could meet.

Pete Thornton said:

First option would be a diamond Crossing which would involve the purchase of 4 sets of turnouts and a crossing.
Second option would be to use a double slip which in the purchasing stakes is a far cheaper option plus there is the requirement for less space.

The first option allows two trains to operate without hitting each other. A double slip would provide a single point of contact where they could meet.

That scenario has just dawned on me after I gave the it a bit more thought.

I was only thinking of the cost and space saving and not how the thing operated, will have to look at the situation more closely.

I want to install something to allow trains to pass from one loop to the other and vice versa.

Let me suggest that you could do something prototypical, and just install a “trailing” crossing using a pair of switches/turnouts. The real railroads preferred to have the switches/turnouts entered from the frog end, instead of the point blade end (a “facing” switch.) Safer that way.

With a single link between loops, you would have to do what the prototype does - stop trains on both loops, back one over the crossover, and then start off again.

Double slips usually are more for yard use but it depends on your space.

LGB lists its double switch as R2.

If you need a wider double switch (if you go that direction) though a bit more expensive is Thiel tracks of Germany. Completely compatible with LGB track.

They have three listed ranging from 120, 200 and 300 cm radius. That comes out to about 4, 6.5, and 10 ft radius. Basically the first is R3, the second is a bit short of R5 as LGB lists its track.

A few years back I devised a single, simple manual control for all the points of a double slip switch. This considerably simplifies life with one of these trackwork monstrosities.

In May of 2016 I wrote it all up for our club newsletter, which you can download from our archives at:

http://www.backyardrailroaders.com/images/pdf/byrr_may16.pdf

And since you asked, a Connie can indeed ‘slip’ through an LGB double slip switch. I’m not sure of the diameter of the switch - I’ve heard it’s five feet. It’s not a pretty sight, but she’ll go.

I hope you double-slip guys enjoy my article. Cheers!

John Le Forestier said:

A few years back I devised a single, simple manual control for all the points of a double slip switch. This considerably simplifies life with one of these trackwork monstrosities.

In May of 2016 I wrote it all up for our club newsletter, which you can download from our archives at:

http://www.backyardrailroaders.com/images/pdf/byrr_may16.pdf

And since you asked, a Connie can indeed ‘slip’ through an LGB double slip switch. I’m not sure of the diameter of the switch - I’ve heard it’s five feet. It’s not a pretty sight, but she’ll go.

I hope you double-slip guys enjoy my article. Cheers!

Connie will actually go through LGB R1 points.

I connected two curve exits together directly and it got through there going forward, going backward was just not possible because the loco footplate and the tender front just caught and bound causing a derailment.

Putting a straight of 400mm in length between the point exits solved the problem.

While it worked Connie did not look all that good going through.

As pointed out on posts both here and another forum if I use a double slip I am creating a single point where the risk of collisions becomes far greater.

John Le Forestier said:

A few years back I devised a single, simple manual control for all the points of a double slip switch. This considerably simplifies life with one of these trackwork monstrosities.

In May of 2016 I wrote it all up for our club newsletter, which you can download from our archives at:

http://www.backyardrailroaders.com/images/pdf/byrr_may16.pdf

And since you asked, a Connie can indeed ‘slip’ through an LGB double slip switch. I’m not sure of the diameter of the switch - I’ve heard it’s five feet. It’s not a pretty sight, but she’ll go.

I hope you double-slip guys enjoy my article. Cheers!

Hi John! I am very interested in simple manual operation for an LGB 12260 double slip switch. I tried your link but couldn’t get it to work. Would appreciate any help. Thanks, David

Hi David - By coincidence I just found out this week that the old club website is down and done. It was supposed to be good for 15 years. Anyway our webmaster died a couple of months back and that’s that. I don’t even try to post pics on LSC any more - it was too complicated. I have a PDF of that newsletter on my hard drive. If you PM me with your email addy I’ll send you the newsletter in question. Cheers!

John Le Forestier said:

I don’t even try to post pics on LSC any more - it was too complicated.