Well I have been surfing dead threads on power tools for large scale modeling. I have several tools available to me that I can work with and am wondering what people like and are using to do their work. I have an older 10" crapsman table saw, I have an old rock saw that could be turned into a small table saw, I have a small crapsman bandsaw. I have a ryobi chopsaw. I have a shopsmith Mark V with lathe centers and bandsaw and table saw attachemnts, small and medium router, and belt/disc sander.

With these available to me I would like to start thinking small work. I see people liking bandsaws for strip wood work. I was thinking of turning the rock saw into a mini table saw but a now questioning it.

So basically I guess I am just wondering what people have and what they are using to accomplish various tasks.

Devon,

Here’s my list of power tools.

Mini table saw, full saw table saw, full size and mini band saw, full size and mini drill press, dremel. I would say that I used the tables saws the most, next used would be the drill press. Having a mini table saw is probably the most used tool in the workshop, and the one I miss the most.

On the wish list; lathe, and milling machine, belt sander.

10" radial arm saw, 10" table saw (w/2hp motor), those 2 get the most use, joiner, drill press, 12" band saw, chop saw, 3x5 layout table, a Chopper III for small styrene cutting, I have thought about a mini tilt arbor table saw, but it cost more then my present table saw. And 2 Dremels, , the cordless version get’s the most use, the plug in one has the flex shaft, which is very handy. And I have my eyes on a belt/disc sander that my Dad has, that may disappear from his shed one day. If you plan on making your own turnouts from scratch, a grinding wheel does the job fast for points and frogs.

Thanks guys,

Ken,

You mentioned the Chopper III I am looking at the tools Northwest Short line puts out and boy they would be handy. I think for our scale work having multiple redundant tools might be nice. I have a whole sett hat could basically be set up for small work.

One thought I have been having is shaping small wood trim. Anyone have the dremel router station?

I’m pretty sure I got mine from MicroMark, since I get a catalogue from them all the time. Has a very sharp razor blade, have to watch the fingers…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

A few of those mentioned are a bit outside the “small tools” category, at least in my opinion. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)But as the saying goes: cutting/working with a larger machine on smaller stuff is a lot easier than the other way around.

For wood I use a 10" tablesaw - thin kerv blade and zero clearance insert for stripwood — as well as a small bandsaw (also for stripwood e.g ties). Complementing that a chop saw — that sure makes quick work of building benchwork in the smaller scales. Next is a circular saw that does multi duty from cutting wood, Trex roadbed to cutting stone and concrete slab. And then there is the tile saw, sees quite a bit of work when cutting cooler is on the menu.

That’s as far as the wood and stone stuff goes.

To get max versatility I tend to build jigs and fixtures as required.

The NWSL tools are well worth the price. I have the chopper II, and the riveter/press and they are both high quality. Micro mark makes a knock off brand and I don’t think the quality is the same. I have the micro Mark sander a knock off of the NWSL sander and the quality is no where near the same.

I have a Proxxon mini table saw. I would like to have a larger table saw to make my big wood into smaller wood that the Proxxon could handle better, but I make due, since I do not have the space for a larger table saw.

I have a drill press, and I have a grinding stone that I chuck into it for grinding switch points and such. I also have a home made die to put into it for pressing rivet effects into sheet metal.

I have the original Chopper, and it gets a LOT of use on stripwood.

I have Dremel with a flex shaft. I use the fiber wheels in it. Them Dremel wafers tend to fragment on me too easily. And that brings me to the safety goggles I wear.

I have a scroll saw, that doesn’t get much use.

I have a small random orbital pad sander that sees some use.

A variable speed, reversible drill that gets some use.

And the circular saw that makes long wood into short wood for the Proxxon.

And off the subject, I have the usual assortment of small hand tools that a modeler collects over his lifetime, and cannot work without.

David Maynard said:

I have Dremel with a flex shaft. I use the fiber wheels in it. Them Dremel wafers tend to fragment on me too easily. And that brings me to the safety goggles I wear.

Have you tried the metal cut-off disks? I used to break tons of the other disks until I switched to the metal cut off disks, and haven’t broken one yet. I think these are the ones that I have.

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=545

My favorite large tool is my 14 inch delta band saw. I use it a lot…making shingle, cutting curved roof beams for cars, even cutting brass and aluminum. I also have a 10 inch table saw for strip wood also for milling clapboards into plywood for buildings and special trim pieces. I have a 7x20 lathe which has a good pilemof wood and metal chips under it. A full size drill press and a mini CNC mill round out the “big” stuff. It is all small potatoes compared to the WW&F museum shop though.

For smaller tools, I have a micro mark table saw and a preac super mini table!saw form really fine strip work. The micro mark saw is new to me…I am not really sure what I think of it yet…good but not great easier to deal with mid size strips like trestle posts not so good at the real little stuff like fence pickets or window mullions. I have an old mini drill press which is great for dealing with those less than 1/8 inch drills and the really little ones. I also recently got a pin nailer which is a cool thing for buildings and trestles

I have been building up my shop for years andyears for boat building, home building, model boats and railways. Metal work and wood work. I had good industrial arts classes in high school but never worked in the trades…just for fun or to save money.

Eric Schade said: The micro mark saw is new to me…I am not really sure what I think of it yet…good but not great easier to deal with mid size strips like trestle posts not so good at the real little stuff like fence pickets or window mullions.

I also have the Mirco-Mark saw (not sure which model I have or you have) but the big issue I have is the fence set up. The saw that I have only has a 1/2 length fence, so it’s very hard to maintain accurate cuts. I’ve thought about trying to build a better table for it, and fence setup but haven’t ever had the chance.

Not to brag, but my business has the need of tools, tools makes me money, so I buy tools and lots of them.

Even some for playing RR with. when cutting strip wood, I use a 10" table saw, with a 8" thin kerf blade with a

zero clearance blade incert. I gave a table saw clinic for our club a couple months back. Many were amazed at what I cut

on a table saw safely and how easy it is.

they were blown away when I showed them how I used to cut strip wood for my HO modeling.

I cut 1/32" x 3/32" strips.

The biggest mistake people make is the wrong push sticks, I will draw up some push sticks and post shortly.

Dennis

David Maynard said:

I have a Proxxon mini table saw. I would like to have a larger table saw to make my big wood into smaller wood that the Proxxon could handle better, but I make due, since I do not have the space for a larger table saw.

I have a drill press, and I have a grinding stone that I chuck into it for grinding switch points and such. I also have a home made die to put into it for pressing rivet effects into sheet metal.

What size blades does the proxxon use? I am thinking my rock saw would work well as a mini table saw. It will take the 5" range blades.

As for the drill press as a rivet indenter I like that idea. What do you use for the die. Seems like a rounded punch or even a reworked old drill bit may work. That is a good idea.

Dennis Rayon said:

Not to brag, but my business has the need of tools, tools makes me money, so I buy tools and lots of them.

Even some for playing RR with. when cutting strip wood, I use a 10" table saw, with a 8" thin kerf blade with a

zero clearance blade incert. I gave a table saw clinic for our club a couple months back. Many were amazed at what I cut

on a table saw safely and how easy it is.

they were blown away when I showed them how I used to cut strip wood for my HO modeling.

I cut 1/32" x 3/32" strips.

The biggest mistake people make is the wrong push sticks, I will draw up some push sticks and post shortly.

Dennis

You and others mention what I believe to be the best safety feature when doing small work on a 10" saw (or any saw); that’s the zero clearance plate. I also like using feather boards on the infeed side of my saw both on the horizontal surface as well as on my fence. When I have made small strip wood on it I like to use big pieces of wood and keep my hands away from the blade.

So no one is using the Dremel router table?

Also with the ShopSmith Mark V as a lathe I am wondering if it would be possible to turn soft metals such as brass? IF so what type of a cutter could be used? I really would love to have both a mini metal lathe and a mini milling machine but those are just something I can not justify.

I don’t call a Shopsmith a small tool, but I use it as a table saw with a zero clearance insert to cut strip wood. I use a think kerf blade, and don’t mind that I throw away as much saw dust as I keep as lumber. I also use it as a circular sander and a horizontal drill. Haven’t used it as a lathe as I don’t know much about using a lathe. I’m not sure it’s good for turning any but the softest metal.

Other power tools are dremel drills, and a dremel drillpress, and dremel table saw.

Devon and Dick,

I would not recommend using a Shopsmith for turning metal for a couple of reasons. First of the Shopsmith does not have a proper tooling post to properly mount and control a metal turning bit. Second, metal turning is done at a much slower speed than wood and I am not sure the Shopsmith can be turned down in speed sufficiently and maintain enough horsepower to accomplish this. Another thing to consider is the method for mounting wood to a lathe is totally incompatible with mounting metals. Attempting to secure metal in a wood type mount could be lethal to the operator is the metal were to slip it’s mount while turning. The Shopsmith is a great tool for wood working. Not so much for metal working. With the proper blades, the table saw and band saw functions might be acceptable for cutting softer metals (aluminum and soft brass alloys) but I wouldn’t attempt any others.

Bob,

That’s pretty much my summation on cutting metal with a Shopsmith or any other wood lathe. I will have to pass on metal turning until I can get the real deal.

And yeah some of these tools are beyond the “small tool” range. But great suggestions none the less.

not the best photo but for metal cutting on a lathe, you can see the part is held securely in a chuck (and often supported at the other end as well). the cutting tool is held securely on an X/Y table and manipulated by turning cranks.

When using a wood turning lathe the cutting tools are hand held with a rigid (adjustable) support. Wood has a tendency to grab the tool…even more so when working metal. Turning metal, the forces can easily be high enough to break tool steel cutters and would break your wrist or send the work flying in dangerous directions if you were holding the end of a chisel.

wood and plastic can be worked in a metal lathe easily.

that being said some metal work can be done on a wood lathe if the work can be held securely and the metal is easily worked and care is taken. often a file is used rather than a chisel. the work possible is more limited and the progress slower and less precise.

My most useful tool is my disk/belt sander. Had a Delta (6" disk) that died recently and replaced it with the 8" disk Porter Cable for an additional $70. Well worth the difference.

I also use my Central Machinery (Harbour Freight) drill press a lot, but the bearings are near shot and the motor torque is way down (open windings?).

I do have a ShopMaster 3-in-1 with Bridge Mill/Drill/Lathe. This has manual, 3 axis power feed, and CNC (Mach 3 software) and a DRO, but I find the unit unreliable (I think the “Forward” power switch for the mill is going to go out next as it sometimes doesn’t engage the motor but “Reverse” works fine) so haven’t invested beacoup bucks in tooling.

You also have to be very careful so as not to let the machine eat itself up when using the power feeds and CNC and I’ve added my own table limit switches after the first time it snapped a spline shaft for the lathe through “over-travel.” (Of course, one would not intentionally let it “over-travel” but when the scale is marked for 5.5" in either direction and it is so far off that it the shaft snaps at 4.5", you have to question Chinese quality.) I had to obtain another from a competitor (ordered three from Smithy and one fit the diameter…, again Chinese quality) and sized it on the mill portion. Luckily, sometime you can use one portion of the machine to make something to fix the other portion. This had been sitting unused rusting in a barn in KY and I restored it.

(http://www.largescaleonline.com/eimages/lsolpics/Team_Member_Pics/toddalin/Parts/TriPower_024.jpg)

I have these made on a Fadal/Haas, but here you can see where I programmed my machine to the outline of one.

I would love to have a nice stationary saw of some type, but space is limited.