In moving last year I sold my table saw, getting close to finishing the new house with a large workshop, but now looking for a new table saw.

Looking at the Hybrids, this way I can get the best of both worlds between a cabinet grade and Contractor grade saw.

The one I am serious about is the Porter Cable PCB270TC, it is stocked at Lowes. Cost is $600.

It does have a couple of problems, but then everything you buy today has some issues.

1. The rip fence is not completely square, it is not machined, but does align well, using a sacrificial fence will fix that.

2. The gear for lifting the blade is plastic and some report this will break if you do not keep the saw dust cleaned out of the gears.

3. The vacuum port is small, wish it was the standard 4" port but will work fine.

4. Only 4 support tabs for the saw blade cover, this will allow some sag of the plate on thin material.

I like the layout of the table and large surface area of the cutting table, but like most saws at this price range the table wing is stamped steel.

My goal is to build a large table around the saw to handle 4’x8’ sheets safely and also a work surface for projects. If you ever watch “The New Yankee Workshop” then you know the table design.

Anyone have other recommendations on possible saws? Been looking online in Craigslist also and have seen some good saws listed.

Update: there is a Zero Clearance Insert that fixes the problem, HT-1 with very good reviews.

Dennis,

Take a look at the Delta model 36-980 10 inch contractors saw. A few more dollars rhan

the one you mentioned, but a good saw.

I bought mine in 2008 and it has been very good, only one minor problem with

an electrical switch.

When I bought mine they were also available at Lowe’s.

Delta makes an upgrade fence that is worth the extra money but is not as

expensive as the Bessmeyer.

Good luck on your hunt.

Rick

Think of looking at Grizzly Tools. More expensive But you get high quality fence, strong base. Most of all it ISO 9000 certified. NO discussion on a American built!

In my world ISO 9000 is a joke. I does nothing for quality, but says you can document the a$$ off of the piece of junk you built. ISO 9000 is nothing more than a paper pusher’s heaven.

FWIW Bob C.

I’m not totally impressed with Grizzly tools. I say that from personal experience with a Bench Grinder and something else that bit the dust that I cannot remember at the moment.

As for the saws available at Home Depot and Lowes, they’re decent saws for the money. Ridgid and DeWalt both appear to be good saws. I recently purchased the DeWalt portable jobsite table saw. I purchased the stand for it also. I am very pleased with it. It’s actually esier to operate than my Craftsman ten inch cabinet table saw in my shop. As for the Craftsman saw, if I had to do it over, the buying part that is, I would probably not go with the Craftsman again. But at the time my budget was what it was, so I make the best of it.

Dennis,

I had a Craftsman and now own a Rigid. For my money the Rigid is twice the saw the Craftsman was (sold the Craftsman). I can easily hold 1/32 inch with mine, and with a bit of diddling, can get better than that. The fence that came with mine does not have a gear micro adjustment, but gentle taps of the hand work for me. Right out of the box, the saw was within .010 dead on with the rip fence. Close enough for any work I am going to do, either on the home or the rail road.

I use a hollow ground planer blade for cutting my fine scale wood for the hobby, and an 80 tooth carbide for everything else. For cross cutting, i use a hollow ground plywood blade in by chop saw for hobby stuff and an 80 tooth carbide for the rest.

My tuppence worth.

Bob C.

Dennis,

I would stay away from the Porter Cable saw personally.The Deltas I looked at when buying mine 8 years ago were not much better. Dewalt makes quality products, proven in the field.

I purchased a Craftsman when all was said and done. No problems so far, Stock fence locks down tight and perpendicular to the blade, every time. I don’t contract anymore, but the saw does get regular use. If I were running a business and using it, I might think of a different saw.

So with all these different points of view which will you choose ?

And sometimes remember the saw is only as good as the human using it

If your going to build it into a work table and not have it portable, then a good used cabinet saw of 10-20 years old would probably serve you better then one of the much poorer made new “hybrid” saws.

Watch “Criegslist” listings, and put up a “Want to buy” posting. Also stop by the local “Specility Wood Store” in town and let them know that you are looking. They may even have a board to post “wanted” things by the local woodworkers. Watch the “Yard sales” in the paper, big stuff like saws get listed.

Post a “Wanted” listing in the local “Penny Saver” “Thrifty Nickel” or what ever it is in your area.

A 10-15 yr old Delta Unisaw, will still be a better saw then one of those new things… And the price will be about the same…

Thanks for all the input.

I know about the older table saws being better, but it could be a problem also. If you are not familiar with how to really check out an old saw, it might be so worn out and cause you more problems or money.

I have seen several old table saws on Craigslist but some do look like major neglect, some look good also. Recommendation is the used saw should not be more than 50% of the new price of the saw.

I am 99% certain I will buy a new saw, even if they are not as robust as a 10-20 year old saw.

The one at the top of my list right now is the Rigid Model R4512, about $500 and has favorable reviews. The Porter Cable saw PCT270 was my favorite, but the plastic gears breaking is a turn off. Found a used PCT270 on Craigslist for $200 but passing on this.

A SawStop may be a good choice, an upgrade I am considering. As I am aging, I find I loose focus at times in the shop while working around sharp spinning things.

The tool I find myself using more often is a bandsaw for small detail work. They will do most tasks, except make rips and crosscuts in a 4x8 sheet goods.

David: Would love to have a SawStop, but way over my budget. Actually seen one demo’d for the first time about 10 or so years ago.

I am jealous

A SawStop is cheaper than loosing a thumb or a prosthetic hand. hi-hi They are a bit salty. The ‘over-arm blade guards’ available for most table saws may be a second best choice.

I used to have a table-top table saw by Craftsman I used on the jobsite that was a good compromise of price and construction. My biggest complaint with Craftsman is they contract with various manufacturers for their power tools and discontinue service & support after a few years. Tracking down the manufacturer doesn’t help since the tools were a special run just for Sears. Makita brand tools seem to work well and have long production runs.

Let us know what you buy.

Regarding the SawStop, I was trained to use a table saw back in the days when one was expected to keep his fingers out of the shiny, spinning blade.

1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10 So far, so good.

David Hill said:

A SawStop is cheaper than loosing a thumb or a prosthetic hand. hi-hi They are a bit salty. The ‘over-arm blade guards’ available for most table saws may be a second best choice.

I used to have a table-top table saw by Craftsman I used on the jobsite that was a good compromise of price and construction. My biggest complaint with Craftsman is they contract with various manufacturers for their power tools and discontinue service & support after a few years. Tracking down the manufacturer doesn’t help since the tools were a special run just for Sears. Makita brand tools seem to work well and have long production runs.

Let us know what you buy.

How about that. once upon a time you could depend on Craftsman to have any part needed to service a tool. They were like Ma Bell. Telephone not working? One call to Ma Bell and your problem was solved. I miss those days of ORDER.

Very nice “unboxing” review of the Rigid saw. My Craftsman is getting close to 15 years old. Still works like a champ. I don’t know what I would do with an accurate saw!

I bought a Ryobi, direct drive portable table saw to carry to the jobsites. It lasted one day. Well actually it never did last all day.

Throat plates are often adjustable for flush fit. If not clean the tabs under the throat-plate, and the bottom of the plate. Add a dab of hot melt glue to the tabs, let st up a bit and press the throat flush into the opening. Use a straight edge to insure a flush fit.

I have a 1953 Shopsmith 5 in 1 and use it almost every session in my wood shop. FWIW

Jon Radder said:

My Craftsman is getting close to 15 years old. Still works like a champ. I don’t know what I would do with an accurate saw!

Mine’s closer to 35 years old and on it’s 3rd motor, Came with a 1hp and when that quit installed a 2hp. Just replaced that motor in the spring with another 2hp.

A good blade helps too. I started using “Irwin” 10" carbide tipped blades. They have a thinner kerf and this one’s lasted quite a few years. I’ve also replaced the throat plate with a piece of Masonite, then ran the blade up through it, so smaller pieces can be cut.

And I like that funnel attachment under the saw. That’ll come in handy to keep the sawdust collected in one spot, say into a trash can or a cardboard box.

I did finally buy a used Rigid R4512 table saw.

It is setup and running in my new workshop.

Nice saw after going through the alignment process a couple of times.

BOOMER: did you do the penny test yet?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJGaRwLGnHw

Boomer,

That appears to be VERY close to the same saw I have. I don’t know if mine will pass Dennis’ penny test, but I am sure you will be pleased with the saw. I have cut 1/32 is thick material very repeatably with mine. I did purchase the RIGID zero clearance inserts, which help greatly cutting very small material. I use mine for all kinds of work. I don’t own one of those fancy little hobby saws, so there you have it.

Enjoy your saw Boomer!