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    • March 28, 2020 4:52 PM EDT
    • Don't unplug the tender just store it complete, that's how the small scale guys do it to protect their delicate plugs.

    • March 28, 2020 2:22 PM EDT
    • David Maynard said:

      Maybe you should make a tag and stick it to the bottom of the tender to remind you next time to plug in the tender.

      Put the tag on the top.

    • March 28, 2020 11:53 AM EDT
    • David Maynard said:

      Maybe you should make a tag and stick it to the bottom of the tender to remind you next time to plug in the tender.

      Naw, that would be too easy.

    • March 28, 2020 8:01 AM EDT
    • Maybe you should make a tag and stick it to the bottom of the tender to remind you next time to plug in the tender.

    • March 27, 2020 7:22 PM EDT
    • Here she is

    • March 27, 2020 4:46 PM EDT
    • I got it working! 

      I read that thread you gave the link for Pete a couple times before I saw that the tender needed to be plugged in in order for the loco to run.  I had forgotten that.  The thing runs great!  And looks a ton better with the paint make over.  I also replaced the stack with a spare straight one I had.  Like it a lot better.  I will post a video shortly.

       

       

    • March 27, 2020 1:51 PM EDT
    • What I need to figure out is how to get the motor out and what motor I could replace it with.  Perhaps a Bachmann 10 wheeler?

      Last time we had a thread like this, we suggested buying a whole new loco on eBay for the chassis ?

       

    • March 27, 2020 10:02 AM EDT
    • Pete Thornton said:

      That's the loco that was made in China under many trade names: Buddy-L for a start, Heritage was another, and Keystone also. Concensus was that it was a sorta copy of a B;mann ten-wheeler.

       

      Here's an old 2013 thread with some info:

      https://forums.mylargescale.com/29-beginner-s-forum/25772-buddy-l-2-6-2-repair.html

       

      You are correct Pete.  And I do remember that the general consensus was that it was a copy of the Bachmann 10 wheeler.  What I need to figure out is how to get the motor out and what motor I could replace it with.  Perhaps a Bachmann 10 wheeler?

    • March 26, 2020 7:33 PM EDT
    • Maybe it would help if we knew the manufacturer of that locomotive.

    • March 26, 2020 10:30 AM EDT
    • With all the time on our hands these days I've been going through oiling, lubing and running all of my locos.  I'd completely forgotten about this Heritage Express 2-6-2 which I did a makeover on many years ago.  I lubed and oiled it as it had not been run in probably 10 years or longer.   I ran it for about 30 minutes.  It ran great! Unlike my other locos that tend to slow down when the go into a curve and speed up on the straight away, this thing is a solid speed the whole way around my track.

      Fired it up the next day and nothing!  The headlight comes on but the engine does not run.  There is no whining  noise.  Looking at the gears they appear to be all intact.  It seems like the motor as froze up!

      Has anyone had experience taking this unit apart and replacing the motor?  If so, what motor should I replace it with?

      Thanks for all your help and suggestions by the way.

    • March 28, 2020 2:42 PM EDT
    • Looks like 4 of them, 2 per side, fwd of #1 drive axle and fwd of #3 drive axle.

    • March 28, 2020 2:36 PM EDT
    • Looks like the mount for a brake shoe. Or a dummy plug for brake shoe_delete. Look for slots on side of motor block on both sides of each driver on both sides of block for open ports.

      I'd have to think on this. None of my 2018D's have that, I don't think....but....I do have a couple of spare blocks...I'll czech.

    • March 28, 2020 2:25 PM EDT
    • Ohmigod! That is the thermonuclear detonator, put it back in right away!

    • March 28, 2020 1:37 PM EDT
    • I was lubing and oiling my LGB 2028D 2-6-0 Mogul and this tiny piece fell off when I put the bottom back on and turned it over.  Does anyone know where this goes?

       

    • March 26, 2020 10:22 AM EDT
    • I finally received the replacement gears both from Bachmann and NWSL.  

      Bachmann:

      Bachmann gears

      NWSL:

      NWSL

    • March 16, 2020 12:52 PM EDT
    • Ah, yes. So, the question is, how many of you work with gearing and optimization thereof?

       

      I did....BBT stuff....seen it, done it.

       

      Raoul Martin, founder of NWSL.....maybe he did it too, eh?

      If he says a smaller (slightly) gear, that's what I use. Especially with his experience.

       

      Of course, news folks have far more knowledge than any of us.

      Oh, and Bachmann has it right?

      Nominal final ratio for steam? Diesel? Anyone?

      1:30, 1:15, of course, varied slightly one way or the other for driver diameters and tooth count.

      Have any idea what happens if you put diesel gearing in a steam engine?

      AH! a 63SMPH K-27!

       

      But I digress.

      Unless I had all the gearing for both plastic and brass gutted engines to compare, I don't think I would arbitrarily drop a late production brass axle gear into an early box.

      I have been doing the NWSL specified gear in 4-4-0's and 2-6-0's for years...and years. I think I trust original NWSL to get the gearing correct far more than the PRC.

    • March 16, 2020 1:54 AM EDT
    • Fred, no idea why you want to play forum cop, people are trying to get this clear, what is the harm?

       

      Anyway, TOC has been paged.....

       

      Greg

    • March 15, 2020 12:28 PM EDT
    • Raoul (founder) said the 25 tooth is too tight a mesh, hence the 24 tooth.

      The 25 tooth gear that we fitted wasn't an arbitrary decision - Kevin and I (and others) counted the teeth on our broken gears before ordering.  My 2-6-0 is running very smoothly with the 25 tooth gear. 

      I would be interested to hear how many teeth are on the new type that you have on order from Bachmann.  However, as Fred points out, Dave is The Man and if he's happy with the 24 tooth gears, then I'm sure you will be too.