Forums » Problem Solving

List of newest posts

    • July 4, 2020 10:27 PM EDT
    • Bachmann Switch Stand

    • July 4, 2020 10:22 AM EDT
    • This February I installed two Piko switch machines, controlled by the Crest Switch Machine receiver. All worked well until after our spring rains; Switch machines responded only intermittently or failed to throw the points completely, so I reverted to manual control. After opening one of the offending machines, I found extensive corrosion in the mechanism that prevented the switch drive motor from completing full travel. Now keep in mind - these machines were installed on an elevated layout with excellent drainage and were only outdoors for a little more than 4 months. Any suggestions for a reliable outdoor switch machine?

    • July 4, 2020 10:05 PM EDT
    • I've changed a lot of mine to Accucraft, but I can't remember if I needed to add an additional draft gear box. I know I had to do that on some cars - I have it documented on here somewhere.

      I need to repair one myself as I had the exact problem on a frameless tank today.  When I  get it open I'll let you know if if needs additional parts to convert to Accucraft.

       

    • July 4, 2020 9:57 PM EDT
    • Guys, 

      Thank you for the input. It is unfortunate that I landed some of the "bad batch", but it is what it is. 

      I have some Accucraft couplers on hand but didn't think they would fit. I will have to give them a try. 

      Kadee's have made their way on a few pieces of my rolling stock, they hold up great, just wish they'd open like a standard coupler. I am glad that there is a direct conversion.

      Hope you have a great Fourth!

      Matt 

       

    • July 3, 2020 9:42 PM EDT
    • Matt Z said:

      Hello, 

       

      I was hoping I could get some insight on what couplers are being used to replace the straight shank couplers on the Bachmann spectrum cars. For whatever reason I have not had much luck with a few of my cars and the couplers have sheared right where the shank meets the base of the coupler. I am not sure if this is a common problem, but it seems like a different brand may prove more optimal. 

      Thanks,

      Matt

      Matt, the Spectrum coupler Box will accept a Kadee 830 without modification to the car or coupler.

    • July 3, 2020 5:29 PM EDT
    • The shearing coupler, and other detail part failures, are a known issue with one batch of white metal on Spectrum cars. Bachman will replace bad parts if they still have stock.

       

      That being said, I will second Pete's response.  The Accucraft Fn3 couplers will fit in the Bachmann draft gear as a direct replacement with some additional parts and modifications. See This Tread for details.  They will play nice with Spectrum couplers if you manually close the Bachmann coupler and let the Accucraft close over it.  I run a mixture of both.

       

      EDITED TO CORRECT FIT STATEMENT

    • July 3, 2020 5:10 PM EDT
    • I replaced my few with Accucraft 1:20 couplers as that's what the rest of my stock had on them.  You might want to think about the advantages of standardizing all your couplers.

       

    • July 3, 2020 1:47 PM EDT
    • Hello, 

       

      I was hoping I could get some insight on what couplers are being used to replace the straight shank couplers on the Bachmann spectrum cars. For whatever reason I have not had much luck with a few of my cars and the couplers have sheared right where the shank meets the base of the coupler. I am not sure if this is a common problem, but it seems like a different brand may prove more optimal. 

      Thanks,

      Matt

    • June 26, 2020 7:10 PM EDT
    • John Lenheiser said:

      I just repainted an LGB 4075 Drovers Caboose and will re-letter to my RR the FT. Worth & South-Western. I used the X2 for the first time, I usually use an airbrush 90% of the time. The paint went on perfect, I first sprayed a light coat from a distance of about 12" in fact I sprayed all my coats at about that distance, closer can cause runs real fast. I let the light coat dry about 2 mins., then sprayed another light coat and let it dry for about another 2 mins., then in another 2-3 mins. it got the last coat, a little wetter then the other two, the paint flowed out like glass and I was done. The paint covered well and was pretty dry to touch in an hour or so, but I will probably let it dry for three days, just because that's what I normally do on final coats. There's no need for more coats, you are just putting on paint that is not need and you will cover up the detail in the plastic and your model becomes a blob of paint and you loose the look of the model. Do note here, I spray outside with no wind and the temp was around 88 degrees, I spray in sunlight so the sides I'm painting I can see how the paint is going on, in other words I hold the car in one hand and the paint can in the other. I can now rotate the model as needed and see how the paint is covering the car, thus I get a very uniform paint job and any dry spots will be seen in the sunlight. Don't forget the rotate the model in your hand, you need to be able to see where the paint is going, that is in the cracks, around window openings, and all areas where things stick out and need to be painted on all sides. I will say one thing here, yes I have a paint booth and I find it the worst place to paint models of this size, you can get very little rotation of the model and with a model of G scale size you really need it. I'm using the spray cans more and more on my G scale stuff, I find in easier and faster then a air brush, as long as I can get the colors I need in spray cans. I will post some pics when I get the car fully done, probably in a week or so. By putting on the coats pretty much one after another you will find the paint when somewhat still wet will re-flow it's self and then you may see some dry spots disappear in a min. or so they can become glossy, just don't keep adding coats to correct a dry spot, see if it will flow out and remember the paint shrinks as it dry, causing a different look. 

      trainman

       

       

      Yep ...that is what I was saying

    • June 26, 2020 11:20 AM EDT
    • I just repainted an LGB 4075 Drovers Caboose and will re-letter to my RR the FT. Worth & South-Western. I used the X2 for the first time, I usually use an airbrush 90% of the time. The paint went on perfect, I first sprayed a light coat from a distance of about 12" in fact I sprayed all my coats at about that distance, closer can cause runs real fast. I let the light coat dry about 2 mins., then sprayed another light coat and let it dry for about another 2 mins., then in another 2-3 mins. it got the last coat, a little wetter then the other two, the paint flowed out like glass and I was done. The paint covered well and was pretty dry to touch in an hour or so, but I will probably let it dry for three days, just because that's what I normally do on final coats. There's no need for more coats, you are just putting on paint that is not need and you will cover up the detail in the plastic and your model becomes a blob of paint and you loose the look of the model. Do note here, I spray outside with no wind and the temp was around 88 degrees, I spray in sunlight so the sides I'm painting I can see how the paint is going on, in other words I hold the car in one hand and the paint can in the other. I can now rotate the model as needed and see how the paint is covering the car, thus I get a very uniform paint job and any dry spots will be seen in the sunlight. Don't forget the rotate the model in your hand, you need to be able to see where the paint is going, that is in the cracks, around window openings, and all areas where things stick out and need to be painted on all sides. I will say one thing here, yes I have a paint booth and I find it the worst place to paint models of this size, you can get very little rotation of the model and with a model of G scale size you really need it. I'm using the spray cans more and more on my G scale stuff, I find in easier and faster then a air brush, as long as I can get the colors I need in spray cans. I will post some pics when I get the car fully done, probably in a week or so. By putting on the coats pretty much one after another you will find the paint when somewhat still wet will re-flow it's self and then you may see some dry spots disappear in a min. or so they can become glossy, just don't keep adding coats to correct a dry spot, see if it will flow out and remember the paint shrinks as it dry, causing a different look. 

      trainman

    • June 26, 2020 9:44 AM EDT
    • I does sound like a lot of work, especially since I don't have to go through all of that effort with Krylon paints. I use the Krylon paints till all of the usable paint in the can is exhausted. Sometimes I will open up an empty Krylon can to put the last bit into a glass paint bottle for use later, but often times there isn't enough left in the can to make it worth the effort.

       

      Around here there is a discount store called Ollie's. I picked up a few cans of Krylon there for a couple of bucks each. One of the cans was taller then normal, and labeled to have 33% more paint in it for the same price.

    • June 25, 2020 11:09 PM EDT
    • I use a lot of Rustoleum paint in my Antique car restoration Work. Their etch primer sprays excellent and so far, has not reacted to any base/clear coat paint we’ve used. I used to have problems getting full use of a can but started doing the following with all cans, primers and colors. I heat a bowl of water up hot, not warm. While it’s heating shake the car for no less than two minutes. Once the ball is moving very freely and noisy, I put it in the hot water. I leave it in the water for a while wanting the metal can to feel hot when I put my hand on it. I then shake it again for over a minute again, then return it to the water. Leave it for a minute or so, shake it for 30 seconds then spray it in very light coats trying to keep a wet edge. I have found since doing this, I have emptied every single can without one clogging or failure to spray issue. I know it sounds like a lot of work but it’s worked so far. Part of the issue is the propellants they have to use now and how the can pressurizes as your spraying. The hot water seems to help this. I have been having the same problem with brake and carburetor cleaner cans that stop spraying with the can half full. When I complained to my auto parts guy and took two $6 cans back he took one and rapped it on the edge of his counter, denting in the side. It then continued spraying. He told me it’s a propellant issue vs. the amount of pressure they’re allowed to put in a can for shipping purposes. Denting the can in decreases the internal dimensions. This is his theory but they both sprayed after doing it.

      When it comes to spraying my RC model planes I only use Klasskote two part epoxy paints. It’s a small business that caters to the modeling industry even though their main business is industrial paints. He has many stock colors and does custom blending. All are basically flats if I remember rigGT but he has clear top coats in different finishes. I apply all of them with an airbrush. I’m sure many of his paints could be used in our hobby.

    • June 20, 2020 6:44 PM EDT
    • So Today I went to my LHS to get a can of metallic green paint for a non RR project. after bringing it home I noticed that Tester's is now part of Rustoleum. degrading one of the  last bastion of model paint. it would stil clear the nozzle when flipped over but that probably will not last long.

       

      Al P.

    • June 13, 2020 12:06 PM EDT
    • very neat

       

    • June 13, 2020 4:44 AM EDT
    • There you go Rooster.

      This is a bash of an LGB Stainz into an Australian type sugar cane tank engine.

      It is not finished (its been relegated to the back burner while the layout is being worked on) but this part is painted in acrylic car touchup paint. 

      The blemishes are to simulate rusting metal under the paint (these locos lived a very tough life with no love given to them from the crews)

      The inside of the cabin and the smoke stack were done in el Cheapo ($3.50) enamel rattle cans.

      The smoke stack is made from a probiotic drink container (brand is known as Yakult here) a piece of plastic hose fitting and the original Stainz mounting.

      From my experience I will never use Rustoleum ever again they were a sheer waste of my money.

      I do not post pictures on here very often as I find it such a laborious time consuming process.

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

    • June 12, 2020 8:11 PM EDT
    • John Lenheiser said:
      Rooster said:
      GAP said:

      I have purchase 2 spray pack cans of Rust-Oleum 2X paint to use on a bash that I am doing.

      I sprayed the first coat and then waited for 24 hours before spraying the second coat but when I did the paint crinkled and looked like it had been put in paint stripper.

      I washed what I was spraying with mineral turpentine and then with soap and water which I let dry thoroughly (all day sitting in the sun) then sprayed it the next morning.

      The can mentions either respraying within 1 hour or waiting for 48 hours before applying a clear coat but nothing about just re coating.

      Has anybody else come across this problem or am I doing something wrong?

       

       Just wanted to complement you on a very nicely done model, too bad you had a paint mess up, it happens to all of us, myself several times. I use spray rattle cans paint on most of my G scale modeling. I usually paint as I said in a previous post all my painting is done at one time, first a light cover coat and then a wet coat and no need for another coat in a day or so, remember you will in most cases be either have to put on a clear coat for decaling and then a dull coat for final to get your model to a nice finished look. So when it comes to paint the coat I want to be the best is the final dullcoat, it can and does cover up many imperfection on your model. Once again, great job, did that start out as a LGB combine. 

       

      trainman

       

      My first try with Rust-Oleum  2X ...the texture is there because I left the dust on (as I usually do) . She was christened and put too sea a year ago..http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/29063/cvrr-electric-motor-car-15?page=1

      The stuff don't like heavy coats even if you think you are putting it on lightly. Scale coat rattle can was the same.

       

       

      You have pictures of GAPS model as I have not seen them myself  ?

    • June 12, 2020 6:08 AM EDT
    • Rooster said:
      GAP said:

      I have purchase 2 spray pack cans of Rust-Oleum 2X paint to use on a bash that I am doing.

      I sprayed the first coat and then waited for 24 hours before spraying the second coat but when I did the paint crinkled and looked like it had been put in paint stripper.

      I washed what I was spraying with mineral turpentine and then with soap and water which I let dry thoroughly (all day sitting in the sun) then sprayed it the next morning.

      The can mentions either respraying within 1 hour or waiting for 48 hours before applying a clear coat but nothing about just re coating.

      Has anybody else come across this problem or am I doing something wrong?

       

       Just wanted to complement you on a very nicely done model, too bad you had a paint mess up, it happens to all of us, myself several times. I use spray rattle cans paint on most of my G scale modeling. I usually paint as I said in a previous post all my painting is done at one time, first a light cover coat and then a wet coat and no need for another coat in a day or so, remember you will in most cases be either have to put on a clear coat for decaling and then a dull coat for final to get your model to a nice finished look. So when it comes to paint the coat I want to be the best is the final dullcoat, it can and does cover up many imperfection on your model. Once again, great job, did that start out as a LGB combine. 

       

      trainman

       

      My first try with Rust-Oleum  2X ...the texture is there because I left the dust on (as I usually do) . She was christened and put too sea a year ago..http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/29063/cvrr-electric-motor-car-15?page=1

      The stuff don't like heavy coats even if you think you are putting it on lightly. Scale coat rattle can was the same.

       

    • June 11, 2020 7:17 PM EDT
    • Back to the original posters question even after re-reading twice as recommended.

    • June 11, 2020 7:15 PM EDT
    • GAP said:

      I have purchase 2 spray pack cans of Rust-Oleum 2X paint to use on a bash that I am doing.

      I sprayed the first coat and then waited for 24 hours before spraying the second coat but when I did the paint crinkled and looked like it had been put in paint stripper.

      I washed what I was spraying with mineral turpentine and then with soap and water which I let dry thoroughly (all day sitting in the sun) then sprayed it the next morning.

      The can mentions either respraying within 1 hour or waiting for 48 hours before applying a clear coat but nothing about just re coating.

      Has anybody else come across this problem or am I doing something wrong?

       

       

       

      My first try with Rust-Oleum  2X ...the texture is there because I left the dust on (as I usually do) . She was christened and put too sea a year ago..http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/29063/cvrr-electric-motor-car-15?page=1

      The stuff don't like heavy coats even if you think you are putting it on lightly. Scale coat rattle can was the same.

    • June 11, 2020 5:02 PM EDT
    • Rooster said:
      John Lenheiser said:

       I'm a retired body shop mgr. for a large DFW auto dealer and after 35 at one dealership I have a good idea on painting. Remember, paint is an art and you learn from experience, if I cab answer any question, I would be glad to help with your painting needs. 

      trainman

      Yes,  Paint is an art ....can you explain why scale coat (rattle cans)  cure in the cold but not the heat?  I learned from experience on that one!

      I've never used Scale Coat in a spray can, only used it in an airbrush, don't know about your experiences with cold weather and drying times, I only paint in warn weather conditions and low humidity.

      trainman