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    • December 23, 2019 1:39 PM EST
    • Last time I heard about $25 a gear, but maybe you have to buy 2 or 3 to make it worth his while.

       

      I'm thinking $40 for a spare parts engine would make a lot of sense if the loco is as popular as you indicate.

       

      Greg

    • December 23, 2019 12:45 PM EST
    • That's definitely an idea Dan, if I am unable to find a gear. 

      Pete, Appreciate the info. Do you have a number for Jiro? Second question here but do you remember the cost of having that gear made?

      I'll check out the other link and the loco. on Ebay. 

      I just wonder if the gear on this engine is the same as Bachmann's because I have a new Bachmann gear somewhere but I dont think they look the same. I could be wrong though. I'll search for it and compare the two.

      Really appreciate your help. 

      Let you know.

      Ken

    • December 23, 2019 7:31 AM EST
    • Just push it with the LGB powered tender!!

    • December 22, 2019 2:48 AM EST
    • [url=https://postimg.cc/18F6MmQS][img]https://i.postimg.cc/g2SDzjtx/20191216-210319.jpg[/img][/url]

      [url=https://postimg.cc/qgBs0H8c][img]https://i.postimg.cc/J7ZPN10F/20191216-185915.jpg[/img][/url]

      [url=https://postimg.cc/PLzDsSJF][img]https://i.postimg.cc/jjB4f9bK/20191216-210453.jpg[/img][/url]

      Hey there,

      We are on a search for a gear setup or a parts engine with good gears for our new addition. This Keystone locomotive is in need of the main gear that comes off the worm gear and 1 axle gear which is still good but slightly worn and slips just a little. We have had Keystone locomotives in our program for years and years with no problems as long as you don't pull too many cars which I'm assuming this engine may have done. If anybody's got a spare drive or locomotive with a good drive, please let us know or if anyone has the correct gears that would be great too. The engine is in new shape and we get a lot of requests from kids to run these locomotives the most, so we'd really like to get it going. It may take a while but I think eventually we'll find something to fix it with. Any ideas would be appreciated.

      Thank you!

      Ken

    • December 8, 2019 8:49 AM EST
    • Not a problem, I wound up mounting a # 835 to a cross beam and securing to the flat tab that is just below the boiler, not using the factory stack but I have a part of a loop coupler in the slot to prevent it from warping and the screw that holds it altogether coms from underneath and threads into a furniture fitting that is screwed into the lead weight. Old Joe now has a coupler, thanks, Bill

    • December 8, 2019 7:58 AM EST
    • The front coupler on that stainz engine is not screwed into place, it is inserted into the body (which locks the steam chest to the bottom frame) and is held in place by the smoke stack which goes through a hole in the rear of the loop coupler bracket.  Also the smoke stack holds the weight in place.  In the 2010 diagram the LGB loop coup[ler is part 55 and the spare part by LGB at trainli is 

      LGB 20100-E055

      If this part is removed from the engine then the 'front' of the engine is not locked together and when you tighten the smoke stack nut it will warp the plastic on the bottom of the engine.  This is why I stated above that this part needs to be modified to take the Kadee coupler.

       

    • December 8, 2019 6:21 AM EST
    • You can also email Sam the coupler man at KaDee. There should be a link on the KaDee site. If there is a kit or coupler that is made for that application, he would know.

    • December 7, 2019 5:38 PM EST
    • When you go to their site, and pick couplers by scale, you can select the "G" scale which they call 1:22.5, or the #1 scale which they call 1:32.

       

      Most people in 1:29 use the "G" scale couplers.

       

      Once you select a scale, then all the couplers shown on the page are the same "size"

       

      (start on the Kadee site itself is my recommendation)

       

      Greg

    • December 7, 2019 10:46 AM EST
    • Thanks much have to reeducate myself from being in the shadows for too long, Bill

    • December 7, 2019 10:07 AM EST
    • Yes Bill, the 779 coupler is a 'G' scale coupler, not the #1 (1:32). I am using them on the Bachmann 45 Ton Spectrum and they work great.

    • December 7, 2019 9:40 AM EST
    • How about, not familiar with their newer couplers because all I have used is their #830 and #831 but I see they now make a 779 that will bolt to a flat vertical surface, so ? is #779 the same style as the 830 meaning still G scale and not their 1/32 

    • December 7, 2019 7:24 AM EST
    • The LGB front coupler serves 3 purposes.  Locks the engine together, has a hole for the smoke stack and of course it is used to couple.

      You could try to mount a kadee to a modified LGB loop for this engine by cutting off the loop in order to use the piece that goes inside the engine to lock it together.

      .

    • December 6, 2019 6:30 PM EST
    • Anyone know does Kadee make a G scale coupler that fits in place of the factory loop couple on the front of a LGB 2010 or 2020 engine? 

    • December 2, 2019 2:31 PM EST
    • Sounds like that was the best course for you. I think both Dan and I assumed the center one of the 3 screws, but if it was not that obvious then having someone else do it was most likely the best.

       

      Greg

    • December 2, 2019 2:03 PM EST
    • Dan Pierce said:

      he 2 yellow circled screws will allow you to remove the motor block.  Then remove the 2 screws on top of the motor block and take out the motor. 

      Observe the ends of the motor shaft for small metal balls, these are thrust bearings for the old motor blocks that did not have them. 

      Newer motors do not need these small balls and remove them or they can cause problems.

       

      There are 6 screws circled.  However, unfortunately this is pretty much greek to me.  I took it to the local train shop, Eastside Trains in Kirkland, WA to have them put a new motor in. 

    • November 30, 2019 7:55 AM EST
    • he 2 yellow circled screws will allow you to remove the motor block.  Then remove the 2 screws on top of the motor block and take out the motor. 

      Observe the ends of the motor shaft for small metal balls, these are thrust bearings for the old motor blocks that did not have them. 

      Newer motors do not need these small balls and remove them or they can cause problems.

    • November 29, 2019 9:48 PM EST
    • Sorry, I thought you meant the 2 center screws...

       

      Dan will know for sure.... paging Dan...

       

       

    • November 29, 2019 1:37 PM EST
    • 2 screws?  There's 6 screws there.  The brushes stayed in place.

    • November 29, 2019 1:06 PM EST
    • I think you can put the bottom cover back on and just remove those 2 screws...  did you catch the springs and brushes as you pulled the wheels out?

       

      Greg