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    • March 26, 2020 10:30 AM EDT
    • With all the time on our hands these days I've been going through oiling, lubing and running all of my locos.  I'd completely forgotten about this Heritage Express 2-6-2 which I did a makeover on many years ago.  I lubed and oiled it as it had not been run in probably 10 years or longer.   I ran it for about 30 minutes.  It ran great! Unlike my other locos that tend to slow down when the go into a curve and speed up on the straight away, this thing is a solid speed the whole way around my track.

      Fired it up the next day and nothing!  The headlight comes on but the engine does not run.  There is no whining  noise.  Looking at the gears they appear to be all intact.  It seems like the motor as froze up!

      Has anyone had experience taking this unit apart and replacing the motor?  If so, what motor should I replace it with?

      Thanks for all your help and suggestions by the way.

    • March 26, 2020 10:22 AM EDT
    • I finally received the replacement gears both from Bachmann and NWSL.  

      Bachmann:

      Bachmann gears

      NWSL:

      NWSL

    • March 16, 2020 12:52 PM EDT
    • Ah, yes. So, the question is, how many of you work with gearing and optimization thereof?

       

      I did....BBT stuff....seen it, done it.

       

      Raoul Martin, founder of NWSL.....maybe he did it too, eh?

      If he says a smaller (slightly) gear, that's what I use. Especially with his experience.

       

      Of course, news folks have far more knowledge than any of us.

      Oh, and Bachmann has it right?

      Nominal final ratio for steam? Diesel? Anyone?

      1:30, 1:15, of course, varied slightly one way or the other for driver diameters and tooth count.

      Have any idea what happens if you put diesel gearing in a steam engine?

      AH! a 63SMPH K-27!

       

      But I digress.

      Unless I had all the gearing for both plastic and brass gutted engines to compare, I don't think I would arbitrarily drop a late production brass axle gear into an early box.

      I have been doing the NWSL specified gear in 4-4-0's and 2-6-0's for years...and years. I think I trust original NWSL to get the gearing correct far more than the PRC.

    • March 16, 2020 1:54 AM EDT
    • Fred, no idea why you want to play forum cop, people are trying to get this clear, what is the harm?

       

      Anyway, TOC has been paged.....

       

      Greg

    • March 15, 2020 12:28 PM EDT
    • Raoul (founder) said the 25 tooth is too tight a mesh, hence the 24 tooth.

      The 25 tooth gear that we fitted wasn't an arbitrary decision - Kevin and I (and others) counted the teeth on our broken gears before ordering.  My 2-6-0 is running very smoothly with the 25 tooth gear. 

      I would be interested to hear how many teeth are on the new type that you have on order from Bachmann.  However, as Fred points out, Dave is The Man and if he's happy with the 24 tooth gears, then I'm sure you will be too.

       

    • March 14, 2020 5:13 PM EDT
    • To continue this subject, at this point is needless, as Dave Goodson is going to do the repairs/replacement of the axle/gears.

          Dave is sure to be very able to do the job, and when done, "Might" if asked nicely, give a description of what/where/ and type of gear axle is involved in this story....unless provoked by well meaning "Know-It-Alls'" like me and others.!!

           So...give it a rest, and we all may actually learn something.

        Fred Mills

    • March 14, 2020 5:03 PM EDT
    • The parts I ordered from Bachmann are linked in my post earlier in this thread.

      The parts TOC stated I needed from NWSL are 2223-6.  Here is what he said:

      2223-6 is the 24 tooth axle gear for the 4-4-0 and 2-6-0. Arguments abound on this, as all but early units use the 2226-6 of 25 teeth.

      Raoul (founder) said the 25 tooth is too tight a mesh, hence the 24 tooth.

    • March 14, 2020 4:50 PM EDT
    • timmyd DeHan said:

      To be on the safe side I also ordered 3 of the axle and gears from NWSL.  TOC recommended them.  Pete, are saying that these will not work?

      Timmy, the old axles, which I assume you have as you have split gears (and which look like the photo I posted of the gearbox,) are knurled (small ridges or grooves on the surface) and will accept the NWSL 25T gear  -I have done that once. Just make sure you order the right gear - the one NWSL claims is correct has too many teeth. (We've been using the "2226-6  | Fn3 Bachmann 2-8-0 axle gear 25T".) Read the Bachmann or similar forum thread for enlightenment. (P.S. I do not know iof the NWSL gear labelled dfor the 2-6-0 will fit. We use the 25T 2-8-0 gear.)

      The new axles you bought from Bachmann are different, which is probably why they gave you a whole axle, not just a gear. These new ones are mounted on a flat part of the axle to stop them spinning ("D" shaped.) Either solution will work - however, if Stan is correct (and I would query why the new ones are different if they were all produced at the same time,) the new style axles are old type plastic and will split. Whether they will continue to make the axle rotate when split is not known!

       

    • March 14, 2020 1:24 PM EDT
    • Perhaps I can provide a little clarity on the Bachmann Sprectrum 2-6-0s.

       

      The older ones had plastic gears.  The current ones have metal gears.  The current ones are completely redesigned and are a much more rugged locomotives.  The parts for the older models were made when the older models were manufactured and the parts for the current models were made when they were manufactured.  So if you get parts for the new locomotive they will have metal gears while parts for the older ones will have the older plastic gears.

       

      Hope that helps

       

      Stan

      https://youtu.be/qkm3GWYS3qs

       

    • March 14, 2020 12:36 PM EDT
    • Good move, Timmy. Contacting Dave Goodson was a good way to solve your gear problems.  He probably knows more about Bachmann equipment, than Bachmann itself....!!!

         It's good to see that Dave is still available for those that choose not to try repairing their own equipment, although the learning experience is very worthwhile.

        (I gather that your name is "Timmy", or Tim)

        Fred mills

    • March 14, 2020 12:19 PM EDT
    • Max Winter said:

      Greg, my understanding is the new batch of 2-6-0/2-4-0 has an all metal gear box, see here - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BACHMANN-SPECTRUM-G-EUREKA-PALISADES-2-6-0-TENDER-81487-DCC-SND-READY-NEW/312731750249?hash=item48d043cf69:g:S4EAAOSwLF1X21A2. Looks like Bachmann might learn from there past mistakes. Or is the cut and paste job that Al has used lying.

       

      The strange bit about metal gears I mention is that Bachmann decided to use a plastic gear on a "D" shaped mount for the 2-6-0/4-4-0 rather than the brass gear mounted on an axle as had been done with the Connie replacements. Or at least the one Bachmann supplied direct to me about 8 years ago. Oh, and while I'm here - did you notice the schematic you posted for the 2-6-0 is for the little "mining" Mogul not the 2-6-0 the OP has - the clue is that there is no centre axle mounted valve gear shown.

       

      On a more general note perhaps some people here could take time to read my posts more carefully, I get a bit fed up sometimes with being dissed or totally ignored - they are mostly based on experience and try to offer "best practice" advice. Just because I'm one of those pesky Limeys does not mean I am totally ignorant of product mostly aimed at the US market. They have their fans over here too. OK, rant over back to the plot.

      Who are you referring to?  If you are referring to me I am a complete dummy with this stuff.  I read your post however, much of it is greek to me...  As I stated, I contacted Bachmann and they told me the part number I needed.  I ordered 3.  TOC (Dave Goodson) suggested I contact NWSL and order the parts from them.  I did that as well and ordered 3.  I've asked TOC to do the installation.  He's agreed.

      I also asked Bachmann (Ruth) why the replacement gears are plastic and not brass and she stated, "cost".  She did state that the replacement gear is more robust and I should not have any problems with it.  TOC mentioned that the NWSL gear is machined Delrin, not cast plastic and has never had a NWSL one go bad.

    • March 14, 2020 4:17 AM EDT
    • Greg, my understanding is the new batch of 2-6-0/2-4-0 has an all metal gear box, see here - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BACHMANN-SPECTRUM-G-EUREKA-PALISADES-2-6-0-TENDER-81487-DCC-SND-READY-NEW/312731750249?hash=item48d043cf69:g:S4EAAOSwLF1X21A2. Looks like Bachmann might learn from there past mistakes. Or is the cut and paste job that Al has used lying.

       

      The strange bit about metal gears I mention is that Bachmann decided to use a plastic gear on a "D" shaped mount for the 2-6-0/4-4-0 rather than the brass gear mounted on an axle as had been done with the Connie replacements. Or at least the one Bachmann supplied direct to me about 8 years ago. Oh, and while I'm here - did you notice the schematic you posted for the 2-6-0 is for the little "mining" Mogul not the 2-6-0 the OP has - the clue is that there is no centre axle mounted valve gear shown.

       

      On a more general note perhaps some people here could take time to read my posts more carefully, I get a bit fed up sometimes with being dissed or totally ignored - they are mostly based on experience and try to offer "best practice" advice. Just because I'm one of those pesky Limeys does not mean I am totally ignorant of product mostly aimed at the US market. They have their fans over here too. OK, rant over back to the plot.

    • March 13, 2020 4:13 PM EDT
    • I'm wondering if you have the new or old style. The tipoff is if the motor is horizontal or vertical. The early ones were vertical, and the later ones are like Pete's picture. Exploded drawings for both types are on the Bachmann site.

       

    • March 13, 2020 3:51 PM EDT
    • To be on the safe side I also ordered 3 of the axle and gears from NWSL.  TOC recommended them.  Pete, are saying that these will not work?

    • March 13, 2020 2:51 PM EDT
    • So Max: I have not seen the 2-6-0 with a brass gear as you state below, where did you see this or get this information? I think you may be confusing the gen 6 "big hauler" 4-6-0... Can you provide a reference?

      Max Winter said:

      Same here. My faithful 2-6-0's drive gear finally bit the dust a while back. Got a replacement fitted on an axle from Bachmann. Note the Bachmann supplied item, still plastic, is now on a "D" shaped mount on the axle rather than the splined one on the original. Strangely the new batch 2-6-0/2-4-0's have a brass gear factory fitted as did the original Bachmann replacement supplied  gear for failed 2-8-0 "Connies" (not to be confused with the fine C-19 2-8-0 they make). You could also try https://nwsl.com/ for a straight fit replacement, gearwheel only, if you have no luck at Bachmann. Get a spare for each loco while you are at it, you never know if it might fail again. I have.

       

      Replacing the axle/gear can be a bit fiddly as the dummy valve gear is mounted on the drive axle too and you have remember to get everything back in the right order. Just work methodically and take a few pictures as you disassemble, It will all go back together fine in the end. Pay particular attention to the "quartering" of the wheelsets and motions too when reassembling. Note - If you had not yet spotted it, the screws holding wheels on the axles are under the small decorative removable wheel "hubcaps". Replace those horrible suppressor capacitors mounted on the end of the motor while you have got everything out, they are another weak point. 

       

    • March 13, 2020 2:42 PM EDT
    • My fault, the picture I posted was of a 4-6-0, not the 2-6-0..

       

      All 2-6-0's have gearbox on middle axle as Pete Said.

       

      Sorry, I was responding to Max talking about metal gears, was trying to show all metal gears in a Bachmann gearbox, not meaning to cause confusion about this 2-6-0.

       

      Greg

    • March 13, 2020 2:10 PM EDT
    • Fred Mills. said:

      I at one time had one of those 2-6-0, Spectrum Moguls, and I suggest, as in my first posting, that the geared axle is the REAR one, as shown in the picture.  The rear axle does not have the extra valve motion on it, and is less complicated to replace.

          It would be far better to get the "BRASS" geared axle as a replacement, as then you would probably never have to replace it again.

           Fred Mills

      Yes, Greg's pic of the brass gears shows the rear axle, with the chuff cam on the middle, as the valve gear is all going forward from the center wheels.

       

      However, I would be very careful with the brass axle (not that it is available as far as I know.) The gear may be different from the usual type (size, etc.) Those new ones that Timmy just purchased are different from the older ones, in that the "D" shaped axle holds the gear, and the NWSL replacement will not fit, as it isn't knurled to hold the gear. Time will tell if these replacements are better plastic than the originals, which crack as they shrink due to old age (we think.)

      In this photo of the old-style gearbox (with the original gear) you can see lots of idler shafts, which don't show on the photo of the brass gear - and the latter looks larger?

       

       

      P.S. I don't see any inside valve gear on Greg's photo. Does the 'brass gear' version not have working valve rods?

    • March 12, 2020 8:20 PM EDT
    • John Caughey said:

      Pete are you sure about the middle axle, or did they change location, because Greg's pic shows the gear on the lead axle.... Maybe they needed more room.

      Thanks for the correction Fred. At least I could tell it wasn't the blind one.

    • March 12, 2020 7:29 PM EDT
    • I believe the older 2-6-0 is the middle driver as Pete has described,

      https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/G816X-IS002-2_CHASSIS.pdf

       

      and the newer ones are the rear driver as Fred has described.

       

      but the "sound ready" version on the site also shows middle driver

      https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/LS2-6-0_SOUNDREADY_Chassis.pdf

       

      Now I am confused.

       

      Greg

       

       

       

    • March 14, 2020 1:35 PM EDT
    • I purchased one of Accucraft’s beautiful brass headlamps. The problem is I can’t get into it to add a bulb and wiring. On the bottom it has two screws that appear to hold the base on but after several attempts including lacquer thinner and heat, they won’t budge. Any ideas on how to get into this thing?

      Doc