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    • July 26, 2020 4:22 PM EDT
    •  

      Somebody get the track gang down there and clear the weeds we've got unobtanium to move!

      Looks good BD

    • July 26, 2020 4:05 PM EDT
    • Dang, that looks GOOD!

      Now, I'm guessing we don't get to see it in person for awhile.

       

       

    • July 26, 2020 3:20 PM EDT
    • Draaaaaaging this thread back from the dead.  Did a bit more work on the colliery. Now there's a covered conveyor from the mine to the top rear of the colliery.

       

       

    • July 26, 2020 3:24 PM EDT
    • This morning I messed with my pressure washer for almost 3 hours (mainly rebuilding the carburetor) before it was straightened out. Turned out that I needed a new spark plug, that's all. 

       

      Thereafter, I used the machine on the mountains, backdrops, retaining wall, stepping stones, roadbed & yard slab, anything in the area of this project that needed a cleaning. The pressure washer is also the only thing I know of to clean real rocks from the haze of concrete or mortar. It was really hot today, but this was the perfect job for that, nice and wet!

       

         

       

      The white puffs are spray foam plugs for the building sockets, which will be knifed flush with the mortar.  

       

      Thanks for watching, 

      ===:>Cliffy

    • July 25, 2020 4:34 PM EDT
    • Back to the mountain project, I finished the mortar cleanup today, and also removed the PVC tubes and trimmed the flex conduit. 

       

      I was really relieved that the PVC tube removal went easily, and here's how. I used a sawzall type tool to split the pvc pipe along one side, with a long blade inserted down into it. With a pair of channel-lock pliers, they twisted out fairly easily.  Then it was a matter of cleaning up the mortar ridges around the hole.

       

      I shop vac'd the whole thing, put tools away, and called it a day. 

       

       

      Tomorrow, I hope to do the pressure washing of all the rocks and other things that have cement remnants, and other stuff that just needs pressure washing. Also, plugging all those holes. 

       

      Eventually, staining the whole thing, and then, finally, some day... installing the first row of flats.  

    • July 25, 2020 4:20 PM EDT
    • David M., that's a good one I'd not heard before, hahahaa!!

       

      And David R., you know why Denny's calls a certain item on the menu the Lumberjack Special, right?

       

       

    • July 20, 2020 9:16 PM EDT
    • Cliff & Rooster;

       

      Nothing to elaborate, but the recent posts did remind me of an old riddle-joke:  What do the Starship Enterprise and toilet paper have in common?  Answer:  Both can circle Uranus to wipe out stray Klingons!

       

      Leaving gutter now, David Meashey 

    • July 20, 2020 7:44 PM EDT
    • I love it !!!

       

      LMAO !!!

       

       

      I gotta poop now !!

    • July 20, 2020 7:39 PM EDT
    • Rooster said:

      I just wanna use you're pullman bathroom  !!

       

      Glad you remembered that! No one's used it except me so far. So stop at Denny's on the way down, and have at it, hahahaha!

       

    • July 26, 2020 2:31 PM EDT
    • I am on my second LGB Forney cab and have painted it with Rustoleum 2x Gloss Hunter Green and have let it set for about a week...this morning I applied a light coat of the 2x semi gloss clear.  The front of the cab has some areas where the green buckled.  The sides and back of the cab seem fine.  Back story...I'm trying to create the Fred Gurley engine that runs around Disneyland.  My first attempt yielded horrific results...mainly from my lack of patience and then freaking out when the new paint completely buckled and I ended up damaging the cab.

      So, I've taken a deep breath and keep telling myself that all is not lost.  But I would like your suggestions for repairing this buckling issue...should I immediately try and remove it with a plastic safe paint stripper?  If so what kind?  Should I let everything dry completely and then sand lightly and start over?  I am all ears and eyes and appreciate your thoughts and suggestions.

      Thanks,

      Richard

    • July 26, 2020 12:20 PM EDT
    • running that combine on your layout will give you hours of enjoyment

      As I don't have a layout, that seems unlikely! But thanks for the thought.

      building it on top a kitchen counter

      Naw, I'm building it in the Pantry. The kitchen counter was just a place with light to take the photo. (The pantry is pretty big - about 9'x4' 6", and has sturdy shelves built in. SWMBO offered it to me as a workshop. With a few modifications it does great. see attached.)

    • July 26, 2020 7:27 AM EDT
    • At least you are building it on top a kitchen counter and not on the washing machine..................

    • July 26, 2020 6:37 AM EDT
    • Always nice to see a fellow modeler's models and what they are working on, keep up the good work, running that combine on your layout will give you hours of enjoyment, good job.

       

      trainman

    • July 25, 2020 12:59 PM EDT
    • While I am waiting for some cooler weather to try my Ford Canyon Red on the Emily coach, I dragged out a "kit" for a 26' coach made originally by Ted Stinson of Northeast Narrow Gauge. Ted passed a few years ago, and my kit must be 10-15 yrs old. He was the guy who did the plans that were given away in GR Magazine in the early 2000's.

      I checked my 'plans' file and found not only his original plan for the combine, but also the plans for the interiors of his 26' 'shortie' coaches. Interestingly, while the kit has the same plans in it. my one-piece fold-out plan has construction instructions, which the kit does not!!

       

      Anyway, I'm not going to post detailed step-by-step build instructions, as these kits are few and far between. But a few photos and interesting issues that occurred might be of interest.

       

       

      Having made or modified several coaches in the past 10 years, I had a pretty good idea what was what. I had some 1/4 round wood left over from a prior coach, so that got used on the corners instead of the square supplied. I used the square stock to reinforce the inside of the corners.

       

      The scale wood supplied is a bit rough, and even after sanding it looks rough. The previous owner had actually started to build it, and had used scribed siding for the end platforms, instead of the 1/4" planking supplied, and the steps use cardstock for the sides and he had used card for the steps - and glued them in the wrong place - so I had to rebuild those pieces.

       

      I poked around inside my bags of leftover wooden parts and found 1/2 the parts for 6 seats so I made do and left off the arms on the wall side.

       

       

      Much more insteresting are the trucks, which have whitemetal castings and a wood frame. I was extremely dubious about the dimensions involved, as gluing the wooden frame doesn't make it easy to correct the width, etc. As it turned out, the bolster was wider than the ends so that needed 'adjusting'.

       

       

      I painted the wheels black as I spray everything and prefer not to get paint on the rim/treads. The sides have to be glued and pinned to the sides, so this pic shows the tools - a 'drift' was essential (flat ended round chisel-type device, for hitting nailheads when you can't get a hammer at them?) Pre-drilling most of the holes was also advisable.

       

       

      Then, after I installed the wheels, I found they hit the bolster, so (as you can see above,) I had to cut some clearance for them. Finally, they were all together, with plastic spacer washers to keep the wheels centered and away from the sideframes.

       

      I put them on the track and got a nasty shock. The wheels didn't fit the track.

       

       

      Somewhere along the line they had been squeezed. I should have checked the back-to-back before installing them, sigh, so they had to come out and be spread a little. Now it runs nicely, and then I found some "square wire" as Ted calls it, which is strap for the underside of the sodeframes, so I'll have to come up with a jig or similar for making 4 pieces. I have some nails left, so I think I will "bolt' them underneath the end beams.

    • July 24, 2020 8:13 AM EDT
    • At the Finger Lakes Live Steamers:

    • July 21, 2020 9:29 PM EDT
    •  You the man Rooster , great work !

    • July 21, 2020 6:54 PM EDT
    • Enjoy them but I/we want pics of them on tour ......running or not and BTW a 9v battery will run them and light them up as well(forgot to add that with the plug ...fark) .  Just tie all the hot leads together as all the lighting has a 480ohm resistor on every lead. Beware that they may run backwards cause I reversed the color on the motor block just to be a peckerhead because I am!

       

       

      A deer with no eyes is a "No Eye Deer"

      A deer with no eyes and no legs is "Still No Eyed Deer"

      A deer with no eyes and no legs and no ....never mind

    • July 21, 2020 6:43 PM EDT
    • Ric Golding said:

      19 July, 2020 - Well "da boys" (the Evil Twins) are now in our possession.

       

       

      It's time for Cousin Matt to pony up and carry the "Twins" or "Iron Maidens" on one of his flats when you return home!  Would be nice to see pics of them on tour! Starting at the finger lakes ......just saying ?

    • July 21, 2020 12:47 PM EDT
    • Just had a chance to look through the posts..   The "Twins" are superbly done, superbly...  

    • July 22, 2020 5:19 PM EDT
    • Jon, It's a Grex upholstery stapler. Good idea for a bridge cover.

      Craig, 23 Gauge pinners are everywhere. My first one was a Porter Cable I got off of Amazon years ago and wore the driver head out.

      Rather than spend $80.00 for a rebuild kit, I purchased a Grex. Never regretted it. All my air fasteners are Grex.

      If you plan on driving hundreds of pins, brads or staples, steer clear of Harbor Freight!

      The cedar is cut on a band saw with a special slitting blade with no kerf. You can cut down to less than 1/16" with it.