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    • August 2, 2020 4:20 PM EDT
    • Here I am last week, standing proudly after scaling the slopes of lower Mount Davidson.  (This is to give a sense of scale, please excuse the moronic pose).



      Friday was rainy all day, but I was able to revive the various weed sprayers and squirt bottles I used on the other mountains for staining, and also get the new stain for this one. Saturday was laying the base coats (3 colors), and today was road darkening and touching up. 



      I use 3 cheap Ortho weed sprayers to put on a tan, dark brown, and some yellow, in various stages. This was great for covering a lot of area, and you can go back and spray another color until it looks right. Then I did darkening of gullies and depressions with a hand spray bottle of darker mud-like paint, also using a water spray bottle to do edge blending. This was the approach I used on the other mountains.


      However, I was kinda underwhelmed with Saturday's results. But today for the roads and touchup, I used a sponge and some sponge brushes, which gave a lot more control. After sponging stain on (in a dark and a light brown), I removed excess and blotted with paper towels until it seemed like it was blending in. I couldn't use a water spray bottle much, because too much moisture tended to mess with Saturday's layers. 



      Along those lines, the overnight rain has been messing with the stain, so I covered the mountain with tarps and drop cloths for now. 


      BTW, I've been using Valspar water-based concrete stain, solid color. Maybe with some tinting with black or red acrylic I have laying around. All has been watered down 1 part stain to 1.5 or 2 parts water, to be able to use the sprayers and paper towel blotting / blending. 


      Linda says the rocks in the mortar look better blended in with the rest of it, and I have to agree. So I won't be pressure washing all those outcroppings after all, just the retaining wall rocks. This change in course prevents the pressure washing to also remove the stain from the concrete, putting me back at square one.


      One final point, and Linda agrees, under direct sunlight all this will all look lighter; and will probably bleach some, like the other mountains. This photo indicates those differences in contrast. The road almost disappears in direct sunlight!



      So I can't guarantee how visible the roads will end up being, or the darkened gullies, or whatever. One thing I can say is that this thing is now stained, and it is what it is, and I'm happy to get past this stage. 


      More to come...

      Thanks for viewing...



    • August 1, 2020 6:13 PM EDT
    • Eric Mueller said:
      Pete Thornton said:

      A cooler day so a bit of paint. This is one coat of gloss Hunter Green on top of the grey primer. The inside is warm caramel (!)


      OR&L colors!

      Unfortunately it is going to get a final coat of satin Hunt Club green, which is a shade darker and more like Pullman green.

    • August 1, 2020 3:00 PM EDT
    • Pete Thornton said:

      A cooler day so a bit of paint. This is one coat of gloss Hunter Green on top of the grey primer. The inside is warm caramel (!)


      OR&L colors!


    • August 1, 2020 1:46 PM EDT
    • Jim Rowson said:

      OK, now I know you are joshing me, Pete.


      But if you aren't, how much? Durango & Jasper. I have decals...

      No joshing. I'll send you a PM.

    • August 1, 2020 12:13 PM EDT
    • OK, now I know you are joshing me, Pete.


      But if you aren't, how much? Durango & Jasper. I have decals...

    • August 1, 2020 10:23 AM EDT
    • A cooler day so a bit of paint. This is one coat of gloss Hunter Green on top of the grey primer. The inside is warm caramel (!)



      Most of the bits are done, like the baggage steps and the end railings, and just need attaching. The roof is slow as it needs a lot of fiddling.


      Jim - it's all yours if you want it. What RR name shall I put on the side?

    • July 29, 2020 10:36 PM EDT
    • Nice work so far. Looks just the right size for my layout! I want it!

    • July 29, 2020 10:15 PM EDT
    • Wow Pete, that is really great


    • July 29, 2020 1:39 PM EDT
    • A little more progress while I wait for a good paint day (maybe tomorrow for primer.)  I test fit the completed and re-gauged trucks - this thing is a real shortie.



      I glued in the window frames, doors, and added a bathroom. The seats are painted and ready to install. A stove was found in my leftovers box from coach builds, along with an extra window as I only had 7 in the kit. (As an aside, the NENG kit is basswood, so the 1/16th thick windows are very fragile. My wooden kit - probably the Carter Bros - is 1/16th plywood, which is much stronger.)



      I figured I would add the end rails on the body before painting, and I made a little jog to make the holes.



      The rails are also leftovers, from an Accucraft coach I think. A little thinner than the supplied rod.  The body is now done and will get a grey primer and green semi-gloss on the outside. I found a can of caramel (light brown) that will do for the interior walls - I might paint the floor dark brown, but In my experience you can hardly see it.


    • August 1, 2020 5:44 PM EDT
    • Used titebond III, thanks for the comment, Bill

    • August 1, 2020 5:04 PM EDT
    • Bill,

      for "I then added diamond non skid plate detail using hex net mesh fabric glued to the deck and then painted. "

      What kind of glue did you use? This was to the base 'composite' board, right?

      The loco is looking grand. You are an inspiration.



    • August 1, 2020 9:03 AM EDT
    • Looks fantastic!

    • August 1, 2020 8:52 AM EDT
    • Your rebuild is very nicely done, my only question is why did you not sand out the LGB on the cab, is they some reason for leaving it there. 



    • August 1, 2020 6:54 AM EDT
    • Amazing transformation and your write-up of your progress was fantastic. Thanks for sharing.

    • July 29, 2020 10:12 PM EDT
    • Wow awesome job, great bashing, almost a totally redo. a Great job at sharing


    • July 29, 2020 11:54 AM EDT
    • excellent work, description and pictures

    • July 31, 2020 2:04 AM EDT
    • Bob, thanks.  I did plan to deck this, probably by scribing a sheet of plastic.  I am still debating what will hold up the deck, though.  Cut my fingers sharpening my machete today, so I have some bonus time to think.    

    • July 30, 2020 7:08 AM EDT
    • Eric, I would not worry about a 6-12 inch difference between the box car floor and the platform. Ramps were used  to bridge the gap between the platform and car, so does it matter if the ramp is a bit up hill? Also consider that the floor of the car will vary with manufacturer, and how worn out the springs in the trucks are. Plus I would also contend that you will be putting some kind of deck material on the foam board which will increase the height of the platform.


      Rock on, neat project.

    • July 30, 2020 3:51 AM EDT
    • Bill and Pete,

      Thanks.  This has been a week of blinding flashes of the obvious, such as "insert your ballot before sealing the envelope" and "sharpen the machete before opening the coconut."  I may now add "put the boxcar on the track before you test the deck height" to that list:


      The result shows that, with the track, the opening to the box car is 2 1/4".  You'll note the ruler in the photo.  I placed the tracks 12" apart (outside rail to outside rail).  Both tracks break from an R1 (2ft radius switch), come off 3xR1 (2ft radius) curves, have a 12" straight section, go straight into 3xR1 curves, then converge back into an R1 turn-out.  I had previously discovered raising / lowering the track in these tight tolerances lead to poor running and bad electrical connections, so I have to tinker with the platform.  I am not too keen on cutting an intricate latticework to support a deck for a number of reasons, but I am not sold on foam, either.  If there is something that I can cut, scribe, paint, and forget, I am all ears!  Bill, I think you used vinyl for your MIK 2020 build, right?  Is that is what is in the photo you posted here?


          I might add that, despite marking up the backerboard base, I grossly underestimated the size of the loading / unloading shed.  The intention was to have it come all the way to the track where the box car is.   Oh, well.  I sort of like it like this, and I think we can craft a nice roof over the loading dock with material on hand.  It also means I can leave the doors to the mill "closed" or just ajar, obviating the need for even the hint of interior details.  Make lemonade from lemons, as they say!


          The only other issue from this test fitting was clearance.  Komaka Iki's engineer barely cleared the door:

       Heck, the locomotive barely cleared the door!  I am worried that out on the railroad these tolerances will be too tight.  I plan to employ OD to carve about 1/4" out of the portal all around.


          Portal, wall, loading dock, and we are on our way!




    • July 29, 2020 11:32 AM EDT
    • I'm with Pete track is too high or the the building is too low why not raise the building up with pylonsconcrete pylons