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    • August 6, 2020 9:44 PM EDT
    • Matt Z said:

      Hey guys, 

      I went ahead and employed the wife's vinyl cutter for a trial run for some new lettering for some of my equipment. It came out pretty well, not as crisp on the little writing but decent... 

      Not sure how many of you have tried using one of these.... 

      Nice job Matt.  I used a vinyl cutter to make masks for the larger graphics on top and sides of my 3d Printed tank cars.  -Dan

    • August 6, 2020 7:56 PM EDT
    • nice and crisp. well done Matt

    • August 6, 2020 6:40 PM EDT
    • Hey guys, 

      I went ahead and employed the wife's vinyl cutter for a trial run for some new lettering for some of my equipment. It came out pretty well, not as crisp on the little writing but decent... 

      Not sure how many of you have tried using one of these.... but here is my end result affectionally using the names of my kiddos . 

       

      IMG_9510
      IMG_9507
      IMG_9508
      IMG_9512

       

      Cheers, 
      Matt 

    • August 6, 2020 9:16 PM EDT
    •  

      Once again, my flabber is completely gasted. Ray, sometimes I don't know If I'm looking at your model or a prototype. So thanks for making clear in your text which is which. 

       

      Honestly, though you walk through the steps, that last photo is so amazing I just can't quite believe what I'm seeing. 

       

      It's always wonderful to see you pushing that envelope on what's possible. Exploding the envelope might be a better way to put it.

       

      Thanks so much Ray for your detailed descriptions and pics. 

       

      Cliff

    • August 6, 2020 8:58 PM EDT
    • The project I've been working on recently is one with very significant personal meaning...

      I finished the exterior of the stone building on the left in 2013:

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Photos_files/Media/IMG_9385c/IMG_9385c.jpg[/img]


      I designed this building to represent a former bank building which has gone through many different occupants over the years, and is currently home to a custom jewelry shop. It was intended to be a tribute to my brother Jim and his wife Maggi.

      After finishing the exterior, I built the removable boxes that form the two interior rooms. Here's the room for the ground floor:

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_8340/IMG_8340.jpg[/img]

       

      That was as far as I got -- adding lights and details to the interiors got put on hold while I worked on getting some of the other Mineral Ridge buildings put together. After the untimely deaths of my brother and his wife in 2016, I wanted to go back and finish this up, but it was much too painful emotionally. Only in the last few months have I gotten to a place where I felt ready to take it on.

      The first item to complete was the door of the bank's vault. It's loosely modeled after this vault door in the ruined Nye & Ormsby Bank in Manhattan, NV:

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_7168/IMG_7168.jpg[/img]

      Several parts are missing on the prototype, so I also relied on photos of similar vault doors that I found via Google.

      The door and doorframe were built up on a sheet of styrene:

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_5084c/IMG_5084c.jpg[/img]


      After trimming off excess material around the door frame, I began adding hinges and locking hardware:

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_5086cc/IMG_5086cc.jpg[/img]

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_5089cc/IMG_5089cc.jpg[/img]


      Once assembled, I painted the door in an era-appropriate style. I added a slight bit of weathering and scuffs to represent typical wear on a vault in an old building which has at times been virtually abandoned. Then I glued the door assembly to the wall:

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_5106cv/IMG_5106cv.jpg[/img]


      Next I made some ceiling lamps, using three different styles of acrylic beads for each lamp:

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_2166cc/IMG_2166cc.jpg[/img]


      Wider holes were drilled through two of the beads to accommodate an LED. The base was sprayed with black primer, then hand painted with brass paint:

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_2163cc/IMG_2163cc.jpg[/img]


      The remaining two beads were glued together, then glued to the base. Holes were drilled in the ceiling and the lamps were glued in place:

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_5144cc/IMG_5144cc.jpg[/img]


      Now I need to make a display case. The lower half of the case was built using sheet and strip styrene plus a couple pieces of Sintra PVC board:

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_5164cc/IMG_5164cc.jpg[/img]


      The frame for the glass front was assembled from styrene strips, using a pair of machinist's blocks to keep everything square:

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_5166cc/IMG_5166cc.jpg[/img]

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_5167cc/IMG_5167cc.jpg[/img]

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_5178cc/IMG_5178cc.jpg[/img]


      The rest won't be visible so it isn't fancy:

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_5181cc/IMG_5181cc.jpg[/img]


      After I painted the case, I glued a tiny LED into the inside of the display area. The wire leads run through a hole and out the back:

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_5190cc/IMG_5190cc.jpg[/img]


      I used slide cover glass for the top and front of the case. It was glued in place using clear silicone sealant.

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_5195cc/IMG_5195cc.jpg[/img]


      I made a small, round table using bits from an old robot model I bought years ago, plus a styrene rod and some styrene sheet material. The display bust was made of thin Sintra with styrene details.

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_5254/IMG_5254.jpg[/img]


      Another display was made by cutting down a plastic cake pillar and capping the ends with thin pieces of Sintra:

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_5161cc/IMG_5161cc.jpg[/img]

       

      Here is the finished interior:

      [img]http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Mineral_Ridge_1_files/Media/IMG_5282/IMG_5282.jpg[/img]


      I used real photos of my brother's jewelry for the frame photo displays on the walls. The jewelry inside the display case was made by reducing photos of his work and adding a black background. This was printed onto self-adhesive vinyl, then sprayed with flat clear coat. Then I used a very fine brush to carefully apply artist's gloss medium to each of the items, making them stand out from the flat background.

       

      That's all on this for now, more later.

       

    • August 6, 2020 5:06 PM EDT
    • Yep, just spelled different, think I fixed them all

       

    • August 6, 2020 4:35 PM EDT
    • Is the LGB Stanza similar to the LGB Stainz?

    • August 6, 2020 4:02 PM EDT
    •    This all started on the thread by Nick and his beautiful 0-4-0t Stainz bash and I believe it was Bruce who piped in saying something about how adaptable the little engines were and posted a picture that he described as "glonkulator" so I thought it would be nice to see others creations using piecesparts  from the Stainz type engines so gather your pictures and post them here and lets see what types of concoction we have out there.I have done several of which all have lead to another, first one was my original 2010 Stainz starter set engine, it became my P.T.  Tubifo logging engine along with a 2017 powered tender and turned it into a American style 2-4-0, next was a 2020 that became my 4-0-4t Orange River Fruit Co. citrus train Forney, 3rd was Rosy she is a 2017 engine given a American style cab and saddle tank with a scratch built glover style tender. Next was Old Joe he is an industrial style yard switcher that sits atop a 2017 chassis and was made from pieces left over from the other builds. Some where in the mix I built a steam engine to power my sawmill using a old Stainz boiler looks sort of like Bruce's Glonkulator but with pulleys. So grab your old pictures and start posting let us see your Stainz creations

      2-4-0   forneyrosyold joesaw millmini heisler

    • August 5, 2020 6:38 PM EDT
    • My bad Bill

    • August 5, 2020 5:14 PM EDT
    • Bruce you need to start a new thread labeled Glonkulator so others can post pictures of theirs and no to mess up Nicks thread, would be so neat to see all the different things built using this little engine, Bill

    • August 5, 2020 4:49 PM EDT
    • Bruce Chandler said:
      Ric Golding said:

      I like that!   Those starter set LGB engines are full of great ideas, you just have to dis-assemble or break apart to find what is inside.

      Ric, you are so right!   That's how I found my glonkulator!

       

      Somebody call the red box brigade. We have an admitted homicidal maniac in our midst!

    • August 5, 2020 4:46 PM EDT
    • Ric Golding said:

      I like that!   Those starter set LGB engines are full of great ideas, you just have to dis-assemble or break apart to find what is inside.

      Ric, you are so right!   That's how I found my glonkulator!

       

    • August 5, 2020 4:32 PM EDT
    • Unsure which is more interesting, the built item or the story of building it!

    • August 5, 2020 3:40 PM EDT
    • My own personal favorite inspired this building

      One of my first outdoor structures and I used marine plywood for the frame...it's all gone now!

    • August 5, 2020 10:05 AM EDT
    • My favorite from a local dairy;  "Our cows are outatanding in their field"

    • August 5, 2020 9:56 AM EDT
    • Ric;

       

      A couple other slogans that were once posted in Readers Digest:

      From a dairy - "You can whip our cream, but you can't beat our milk!"

      From a German style butcher - "Our Wurst in the best!"

       

      Best, David Meashey

    • August 5, 2020 3:03 PM EDT
    • Use to use HO track nails but that meant drilling holes and cutting the point off, but looked great, then tried bird shot and put a dimple in the plastic with a dremel then putting the shot in, advantage was no tip to cut off, disadvantage was getting the dimple in the right place, tried rivet decals and they were OK but the decal material would sometime show thru + they were very fragel, then Mirce rivets, that came out of Russia worked good but were designed for airplane models and were flat tried putting them on and adding a drop of glue to each one which worked but it was almost impossible to get them all the same but at least they were straight. Now I use both the mirce for location and spacing and add the beads on top and although the rivets are a little large they look good and I just like rivets, Bill

    • August 5, 2020 2:06 PM EDT
    • Too cool!   Nice work.

       

      Rivets ALWAYS seem to be a problem, no matter what.  

    • August 5, 2020 11:11 AM EDT
    • Oh, don't use the beads that have glue already on them they are almost impossible to get off the shipping sheet and if you do it leaves little fuzzy edges around the bead, save your money and just buy the regular ones

    • August 5, 2020 10:45 AM EDT
    • Spill the beads out and arrange them with the round side up that place a small drop on gel super glue on a disposable object then with (I use the end of a tooth pick) wet the sharp end with a bit of super glue then touch the spot you want the rivet and then do that to 5 or 6 spots and move the tooth pick to the bead location and without adding any more glue pick up the bead and place on the spot that you touched on your model continue till all 5 or 6 spots have been done and start all over