Large Scale Central

New to the sound/super caps modifications

I’ve been reading some about the mods done with the super capacitors, regulators, and rectifiers and I have some questions. I have Lgb moguls that I want to change out the 9v battery’s, I have a Sierra soundtraxx for my lake george &Boulder loco with 6v LA battery to change over, and a P.H. Hobbies sound system to change over. I am running old school DC analog track power on my whole line.

  1. On the lgb system I have a diagram from Dan peirce that shows a 9v regulator and 4- 10f 2.7 volt SC n series. I assume if I copied this I would be fine, is hat correct?

  2. On the Sierra, I found a page from Greg E that mentions that the Sierra board is polarity sensitive so I assume I need to solder in a rectifier on the power leads to the board. Then again use SC’s in place of the old school LA battery.

  3. I haven’t gotten the P H hobbies system yet so any advice on setting them up?

  4. can someone supply me with part numbers and the best vendors to buy my compo from?

  5. For the bell and whistle triggers is it easier to use the lgb 65012 rather than trying to glue separate switches to the loco.

  6. I would love any additional information and advice.

thanks in advance, Ted

I run the Sierras on Supercaps. You need three 2.7 volt, from 6-10F each. Wire them in series and just use this to replace the existing battery using the correct polarity.

For running the sierra sound units just add a pwc filter to the power supply output. You can buy these (they are not polarity sensitive) or build your own.

For sensing bell and whistle I never use the 65012 as it is just 2 reed switches Normally open. LGB uses the center lead as common ground in their engines.

Left rail is bell and right rail is whistle/horn.

I get glass reeds and glue them inside the LGB bottom plate as there is a recess for them at one end and a gap in the top plate for wires.

Also I have used flat or round reed sensors on engines that did not have a place for the reeds inside.

LGB 2080 engines with mechanical sensors can have round reeds replace these (they fir perfectly with glue to hold them in place) and get rid of the ‘treadles’.

The 65012 bolts right on so that part is easy. The difficulty depends on if you need the wires to go to the engine or remain in the tender. If the tender, then I would use the 65012. If the wires need to go to the engine, then you will have to figure out how that is best accomplished. So putting the triggers in the engine would be cleaner and maybe easier.