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  • Topic: Railtruck for the Durango & Jasper

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    • April 9, 2020 7:37 PM EDT
      • Southern Oregon
         
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      Jim,

      Have you considered a rectangular brass tubing to build the frame out of, it will solve a lot of the problems that are floating to the top.

      I have used this method on several scratch builds and it works very well. 

      Of course now you run into soldering issues if your not comfortable doing that.

      Just a thought.

      This post was edited by Rick Marty at April 9, 2020 7:59 PM EDT
    • April 9, 2020 7:59 PM EDT
      • Pleasanton, CA
         
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      Thanks Rooster and Rick...

       

      do not have that brass on hand so will need to noodle on it...

       

    • April 10, 2020 1:31 AM EDT
      • Kailua, HI
         
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      Jim,

       

      Kid-zilla and I are pondering this...What if you were to get a second set of wheels the same size as your powered drivers, mount them all in a brass sub-frame as mentioned above, then mount the lot to the underframe of the truck?  Your false chain drive would connect the two wheels, giving you a reason to have two, and some of the engineering and stability issues listed above - strength, stability, tendency to rotate about the axle - might be resolved?   It would also divorce the cargo frame area from the load bearing and driving problem, giving you time and space to tinker.

       

       

      Eric

    • April 10, 2020 10:17 AM EDT
      • Pleasanton, California
         
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      Jim,  Both Workbench hardware stores in our town carry K&S Brass for modeling.

      ____________________________________

      Dan DeVoto

      P-Town & West Side R.R.

      Pleasanton, California

      https://www.youtube.com/danstrains

    • April 10, 2020 10:36 AM EDT
      • Pleasanton, CA
         
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      Eric and Kid-Zilla: thanks for helping me think! Much appreciated! The chains are tough to make work with a truck, particularly if the truck can swivel. The way the original 1926 chain drive works is a small sprocket on the frame drives a larger one on the axle. Those are 2 of the reasons I gave up. Sad!

       

      Dan: Thanks. I am going to stay put for a while longer so that will have to wait...

       

      Cheers!

       

      [edited to correct bad spellcheck..what I get for posting from my phone I guess...]

      This post was edited by Jim Rowson at April 10, 2020 6:24 PM EDT
    • April 10, 2020 7:49 PM EDT

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      Rooster ' said:
      Jim Rowson said:

       

       Worried that my frame is too thin for such an attachment but I have a cross brace that I can screw through hidden under the brass doohickey.

       

       

       

      I agree it is too thin as a stand alone but I was thinking that the model body screwed to the frame will give it more than enough strength however we did not get that far yet. I only answered you on how to make it removable and how I would approach it .  An automotive uni-body frame is a flimsy worthless piece of crap until you put the body on it . 

      Was thinking when you put the body on and attach it to the frame even with some 1/32 " brass pins into the 1/8" PVC frame I bet it would be stiffer than a wedding night rooster! However this is just my experience and sometimes one needs to think outside of the box.

      Now ...if the model body cannot be attached to the frame or it's (body) too flimsy then my thoughts are out the window. Only stating my approach from what I'm seeing from you're,your (spelin) pictures that you are graciously sharing and I'm certainly enjoying.

      Keep up the good work and badge it Amtrak when finished (any paint phase of you,you're,you are choice)!

       

       

       

       

       

      Requesting a picture of the built model before going on the frame ? 

       

      Jim, I hope you don't ,do not have a case of the cart before the horse?

      This post was edited by Rooster at April 10, 2020 7:52 PM EDT
    • April 10, 2020 7:52 PM EDT
      • Pleasanton, CA
         
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      That's the only picture I have, Rooster. The cab only. The back (over the top of the drive) is to be imagineered...

       

    • April 10, 2020 7:53 PM EDT

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      So it's not built yet ?

       

    • April 10, 2020 7:57 PM EDT
      • Pleasanton, CA
         
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      You are very correct Rooster. I started building the frame and figured I'd adjust the top part as needed to hold the battery and electronics plus passenger area appropriately after I knew where the drive was going, along with the chain animation. I was thinking that it is easier to avoid existing stuff as I go rather than retrofit an existing model.

    • April 10, 2020 8:12 PM EDT

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      Only trying to throw in my experiences Jim ...however it's hard when you have Jedi masters chiming in like Rick Marty !

       

      That guy is hard as hell on a wheelbarrow though!

    • April 11, 2020 12:04 PM EDT
      • Fort Myers Beach & Annapolis, Florida & Maryland
         
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      I agree it is too thin as a stand alone but I was thinking that the model body screwed to the frame will give it more than enough strength

      That's how my railcar was built (not by me - I acquired it that way.)

       

      This post was edited by Pete Thornton at April 11, 2020 12:06 PM EDT
      ____________________________________

       

        Pete

    • April 30, 2020 7:16 AM EDT
      • Easton , Massachusetts
         
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      This is real cool ..

      ____________________________________

       My u-tube  My Vimeo

      The light in the tunnel might not be an engine , but a light in the caboose of my own train on my Roundy Round Rail Road !    My empire is complete...I think...

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