Forums Modeling Modeling
  • Topic: LGB Screen Print Removal

    Back To Topics
    (0 rates)
    • November 22, 2019 5:37 PM EST
      • Reedley, CA
         
      • Posts
        398
      • Thanks
        4
      • Thanked
        31

      LGB Screen Print Removal

      Looking for a safe and effective method of removing the existing screen printed logos and lines on an LGB Forney so I can put on new ones made by Stan Cedarleaf...I appreciate anyone's advice if they've don this before.

      Thanks -Richard

    • November 24, 2019 8:21 AM EST
      • Prescott Valley, AZ
         
      • Posts
        679
      • Thanks
        7
      • Thanked
        53

      Richard...  That's a tough one..

       

      For LGB stuff, you might try 91% Isopropyl alcohol and/or denatured alcohol on a qtip or a cloth "swab".   I've even "gently" mixed lacquer thinner with the denatured but that can be dangerous.   Use it gently..  

      Make some tests...  

       

      Also, I did a google search for "How to Remove lettering from Model Trains" and came up with a number of "hits".   Here's a couple if links.    Removing lettering from HO Model     Removing Lettering from a Bachmann Coach

       

      And I got this tip from one of my customers who does some very fine O scale modelling.  He uses this from   Joes Model Trains. Decal & Detail Remover  Erie, Pa. 814-806-4141

      This post was edited by Stan Cedarleaf at November 25, 2019 7:52 AM EST
      ____________________________________

       

      In May 2015, the PCSRR in Dewey, AZ became a Fallen Flag

      But, we're still quite active in the Model Railroading Community and

      still in the decal business.  Please use the contact info

      cedarleafcustomdecals.com

      scedarleaf@aol.com  928.778.3732  or 520.831.3390

    • November 24, 2019 8:58 PM EST
      • Be Nice or STFU
         
      • Posts
        9,054
      • Thanks
        225
      • Thanked
        797

      Wasn't there an extensive thread on all the chemicals/techniques somewhere?

       

      Greg

      ____________________________________

      Be sure­ to visit ­my site, l­ots of tec­hnical tip­s and modi­fications,­ and you c­an search ­for topics­ and key w­ords.


      ­Click HERE for Greg­'s web sit­e
      PLEASE NOT­E: Please do NOT use private messaging, i­f you have­ a questio­n, feel fr­ee to emai­l me priva­tely, u­se regular­ email onl­y: greg@el­massian.co­m

    • November 25, 2019 3:27 AM EST
      • Tingewick, Buckinghamshire
         
      • Posts
        230
      • Thanks
        36
      • Thanked
        32

      As you are going to be applying a waterslide type decal, with I assume a full backing carrier film (other products that I have used of Stan's are made that way), then using a very fine 1200 grade wet/dry paper to remove the tampo printed decoration will be probably be the easiest method. You can get finer grade cloths to do this as well. You will have to apply a gloss base coat for the decal to be applied over, to help hide the carrier film, anyway and that will level/hide the finely abraded area where you have removed the decoration. Once you have applied the decals and let them dry you should be applying a finishing/sealing coat of whatever finish you want to give a consistent appearance, be it matt/satin/gloss. Saves messing around with a load of dubious chemicals and possibly causing irreparable damage ( if you don't count the lacquers ). Always check that whatever gloss and finishing coats you are using are compatible with any factory applied finishes on the loco body that there will be residues of and the decals.

       

      P.S. You could get away without a gloss base coat for the decal by applying a proprietary plastic polish to the area from where you have removed the decoration. Some car paint restorers can be used for this purpose too. They, as well as plastic polishes, could even be used to remove the decoration as they are very fine abrasives in themselves. You then end up with a fully prepped surface for the decal, after washing away any residues. Then all you have to do is apply a final finish, over the decal, that matches the rest of the loco in the areas were the decals are applied.

      This post was edited by Max Winter at November 25, 2019 3:48 AM EST
    • November 25, 2019 5:20 AM EST
      • Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
         
      • Posts
        10,926
      • Thanks
        113
      • Thanked
        830

      Greg Elmassian said:

      Wasn't there an extensive thread on all the chemicals/techniques somewhere?

       

      Greg

      Yes

      ____________________________________

      Shannon car Shops
      Home of the infamous leg lamp

      I.A.R.R.R. Member #12

      and King Butt Modeler

    • November 25, 2019 1:06 PM EST
      • Be Nice or STFU
         
      • Posts
        9,054
      • Thanks
        225
      • Thanked
        797

      Thanks!

      ____________________________________

      Be sure­ to visit ­my site, l­ots of tec­hnical tip­s and modi­fications,­ and you c­an search ­for topics­ and key w­ords.


      ­Click HERE for Greg­'s web sit­e
      PLEASE NOT­E: Please do NOT use private messaging, i­f you have­ a questio­n, feel fr­ee to emai­l me priva­tely, u­se regular­ email onl­y: greg@el­massian.co­m

    • November 27, 2019 9:25 AM EST
      • Reedley, CA
         
      • Posts
        398
      • Thanks
        4
      • Thanked
        31

      Thanks Max and Stan for the advice...I need to get serious about working on this project.  The last time I worked on my Forney was back in January...and now here we are almost at the end of the year.

      As far as any previous thread about this...it could have been me asking the same question...but when I'm only on this site every six to eight months who knows.  I can't remember last week.  So my apologies for bringing up a subject again.

       

      Hope everyone has a wonderful Thanksgiving!!

      Richard

    • November 27, 2019 6:03 PM EST
      • Reedley, CA
         
      • Posts
        398
      • Thanks
        4
      • Thanked
        31

      Hey Mark!!  Thanks for the links...I completely forgot about the first one using the cotton ball technique.  I actually used it a few years ago to remove some lettering off a Bachmann 3-truck shay.  Thanks for the reminder...

      Richard

    • November 30, 2019 3:57 AM EST
      • KENILWORTH, WARWICKSHIRE UK. (Just up the road from Stratford-Upon-Avon)
         
      • Posts
        773
      • Thanks
        32
      • Thanked
        66

      What about those airbrushes that use baking soda powder (bi carbonate of soda)..supposed to do the job without damage.???

    • November 30, 2019 7:14 AM EST
      • Elizabeth City, NC
         
      • Posts
        38
      • Thanks
        24
      • Thanked
        5

      Ross Mansell said:

      What about those airbrushes that use baking soda powder (bi carbonate of soda)..supposed to do the job without damage.???

      I've used one of those, it was called an air eraser, but I used the aluminum oxide grit that came with the kit. It would also use baking soda, but haven't tried. As long as you are planning to repaint afterwards it worked well. It left a nice smooth surface.

      This post was edited by Sophie Boone at November 30, 2019 7:15 AM EST
      ____________________________________

      Sophie B

      Dismal Creek Railroad

Forums Modeling Modeling

    Icon Legend

  • Topic has replies
    Hot topic
    Topic unread
    Topic doesn't have any replies
    Closed topic
    BBCode  is enabled
    HTML  is enabled

Add Reputation

Do you want to add reputation for this user by this post?

or cancel

Ads by Google