Large Scale Central

USA Trains Track Screw Diameter and Pitch

Can anyone confirm the Dimeter and pitch of the screws for USA Trains solid brass track? I believe it is 2 mm X .4 pitch, but I can’t get USA trains info line to give me a straight answer confirming this. I guess they are afraid they will lose a sale of a $5.99 bag of 50 screws. I need to know as I had to cut track in a few places to make it fit and I need to make new holes to put a screw in the joiner. Thanks for your help.

Mark

I would just use a rail clamp esp at a switch I use the trainli clamps that has screws accessable from the top.

You don’t have to use their screws, you could buy screws to match the taps you have…

Yes, the screws are exactly what you asked, and are identical to those supplied on Aristo track.

Aristo used to sell a drill and tap set also.

If your track is brass, you can do it, if your track is stainless, many people failed and broke the tap.

A quick search yielded none for sale I could find, but search art-11902 tap set you might find it.

In any case, you could buy the tap , here’s one on amazon for 6 bucks: https://www.amazon.com/2mm-High-Speed-Steel-Plug/dp/B0006FI7YU

Greg

Be sure to use cutting oil when tapping metal!! For brass any oil will do.

Hmm, tapping fluid is still better in my opinion, it is a lower viscosity fluid than general oil.

If you have never tapped holes before, and with such a small tap, I would recommend googling tips on tapping holes, rather than repeat all of it here, and/or risk insulting you if you already know well.

Greg

Tapping oil is a little sticky …will not run off so fast…

We have to re-tap on used track or replacing missing screws when our tracks are set in ballast here. Lots of time we tried oil and grit and sand will stick to oil while taping holes… So we use taping oil that not to much will stick to it. Works great for us when doing some re-rotting tracks with old stuff. But then our Ballast is haft Clam shell/playground sand and haft motor mix.

Kind of wish we picked up more Hillman rail jointers when we had the chance. Would works lot betting than trying to get thro darn small screw in by laying down on the ground.

Actually, I have several different tapping oils, for different metals, some are runny some are sticky, so I defer to the experts, I just buy the stuff (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

The stuff I use the most is runny, and helps flush chips out while tapping, which helps from jamming. I use Tap Magic Pro Tap, and the little metal can in the picture, and they have made this stuff for years:

This is another one of those specialized products that work great and have been around since 1953, my grandfather used it, my dad used it, the aerospace engineer across the street used it, etc.

Noel, on the hillmans: Watch ebay, you will find used ones there, and also people making copies… also used Split Jaw and there is also a clone being made… I just ordered 100 SJ from Robby to have spares since SJ is going going gone…

Greg

I have the same and for diff metals…

Noel, on the hillmans: Watch ebay, you will find used ones there, and also people making copies… also used Split Jaw and there is also a clone being made… I just ordered 100 SJ from Robby to have spares since SJ is going going gone…

Greg

I have a hard time with Split jaws. Maybe it my brass Aristo or USA tracks. Trying to get them to bit laying on the ground and digging out the ballast/sand. It’s hard to get to clamp straight on both sides. Any movement before you can get them tight, they fall off. Guess it called age when you are over 80 and going on 39…lol.

Hilmans is no problems and will set in place and very easy in hard places on the ground. (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

Thanks for the reminder of E-Bay and also been looking on F.B G-gage & Swap Group for Hilmans.

Noel,

The split jaws can first be loosely fit on the rails and then leveled whilst tightening them. The installation technique I use is illustrated below. (I show a “T” handle Allen wrench, but I have used a right angle Allen wrench that works, too, when track is close to the ground.)

-Ted

Thanks for the confirmation and input gentlemen. I have ordered a 2mm x .4 tap and a 1.6 mm drill set to make these joint connections at cut track locations. It is solid brass track, so the threads should cut easily. I considered buying some split jaw clamps, but so far the USA Trains track joiners and set screws seem to be working well to keep the track in place. My roadbed is all set in small crushed limestone chip gravel which tends to help lock the track in place.

Mark

Be aware that those joiners will need periodic tightening, and grease them up well, as the contact areas under compression are very small, especially the oval slot.

Long term these do not normally do the job well, since they only clamp on one side and dirt, grit and moisture will get in to the joiner and cause oxidation.

Greg