I’m working a module for the club’s layout, and want to build a little yard for slow-speed switching. I’m wondering if I can get away with LGB R3 switches (1605x) and still be able to run my Hudson and 6-axle diesels through. All of my track for my home layout is SVRR, and they use real frog designations for switches, so this R nonsense is frustrating. The Hudson will navigate a SVRR #4 with no trouble. That claims to be 40" radius, and the R3 exceeds that. But your practical experiences would be appreciated.
Hi Eric,
The LGB R3 is a decent switch for what it does. Keep in mind though, it is completely curved (approx 8ft dia) through the frog. I think they should work well unless you have any immediate s-configurations. You might want to test it out on the driveway to see how much space between opposing curves you need for the long 6 axle units to avoid tripping the first car off the track.
Thanks, Jeff. I was planning to have a pair connected in a crossover arrangement, but that’s a good point about the s-curve. I should probably make some space between those tracks somehow. I’ll pick up a couple and play with them.
You can shorten the curved outlet of the switch to keep it from turning as far. That might allow more space for a straight section between. You may need to glue the remaining short rail section into the frog if you do so.
So the “curved” part is part of the equation…
The frog number is another, R3 switches are about a #3.5 frog, worse than a #4
Also the tolerances LGB are made to expect different wheel “dimensions” than a more “true to standard” switch.
So I would avoid them for large locos myself. My switchyard is a latter of Aristo “wide radius” which are “curved” but with a #4 frog… you would not want S curves with two of these back to back, and definitely not a switch with a 3-1/2 frog.
Do yourself a favor and engineer #6 switches for a crossover… I started with the WR switches, and it was no good:
Original crossover of Aristo WR switches:
And a typical result… (just past the crossover from the previous picture - the crossover is under the car on the right)
That crossover is now made from #6 turnouts, no problems… don’t think just locos, but rolling stock too!
Greg
Eric
Why not go with USA’s #6 switch or the 8’ or 10’ diameter switches ?
You could just visit and compare them in the store…
http://charlesro-com.3dcartstores.com/Track-Switches–USA-Trains-G-Scale_c_285-2.html
Sean, I think you missed his question and my post.
He asked about R3 switches, those ARE 8’ diameter
I mentioned the #6 and the 10’ diameter
- #6 frog - good…
- 10’ diameter switches have about #4 frog - ok, not great (he says he can run his “big” loco on them)
- 8’ diameter switches have about 3-1/2 frog - not good getting too tight for reliable operation
So your post says why not #6 or 10’ diameter or 8’ diameter… it’s the distinction between those he was asking about … and for long locos there IS a distinction between the 3…
Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
Sean, I think you missed his question and my post.
He asked about R3 switches, those ARE 8’ diameter
I mentioned the #6 and the 10’ diameter
- #6 frog - good…
- 10’ diameter switches have about #4 frog - ok, not great (he says he can run his “big” loco on them)
- 8’ diameter switches have about 3-1/2 frog - not good getting too tight for reliable operation
So your post says why not #6 or 10’ diameter or 8’ diameter… it’s the distinction between those he was asking about … and for long locos there IS a distinction between the 3…
Greg
Greg you’re mostly right.
I also said, go to Ro’s and lay them all side by each to compare them instead of buying …local for him … I like to help the local suppliers … (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
I’m avoiding USAT for a couple reasons. First, they are expensive. But primarily, I don’t like their massive switch machines, and they don’t readily adapt to other types of throws.
I went over to Don Sweet’s place this morning and we laid out a bunch of switches. I acquired two 18050s for another purpose, and will try them out as a crossover option. I ordered a couple of used 16050 from eBay to play with.
Thanks for for all the input.
Eric Reuter said:
I’m avoiding USAT for a couple reasons. First, they are expensive. But primarily, I don’t like their massive switch machines, and they don’t readily adapt to other types of throws.
Thanks for for all the input.
Ok : Noted
by the way the 18000 switches are a #5 frog, still not as “nice” as a #6…
when you say USAT switches are expensive, you must be referring to the #6… they are more expensive than the 18000 lgb?
Yes, they’re about $30 more. But the stupid switch machines are the main deterrent. I am using #6 SVRR switches for my real layout, but this is a modular club layout, used 3 times a year. Some compromises are expected.
I connected two of the 18000 in a crossover configuration with the included short spacer track, and it works fine for all of my equipment. The longest car I have is an RDC. It’s not operational, but I pushed it through and didn’t have any issues. The couplers weren’t wildly misaligned. The Hudson had no problem navigating it at speed. An additional benefit is that the center to center spacing of the tracks matches the 7-3/8" spec we use for our modules.
I use the Bachmann switch setup. on my USA # 6’s
Sean said:
I use the Bachmann switch setup. on my USA # 6’s
Thanks, Sean. Good to know that’s an option.
Eric, I would encourage you to also test your long rolling stock, unless you do not run any.
The Aristo heavyweights ar 72’ cars (I’m pretty sure), USAT streamliners are 80’, and then for fun the USAT autoracks are a challenge…
Regards, Greg
I don’t have anything that big (except the RDC, which is 85’), but will borrow some to test out before committing. For my yard ladder, I am not concerned. This will be for my own rolling stock, which is mostly 40’ cars.
Eric, I don’t know if this visual will help. These are the only switches on my dual track mainlines. They are LGB 1800’s.
My rarely run Aristo E9, USA PA’s and GG1 can cross them on the fly. Visiting 6 axle rigs have no problem, nor long passenger cars.
There are 4 short pieces of track and an LGB crossover in the assemble.
John what is your track to track spacing?
That’s the tough thing if you are trying to keep the track to track narrow. Of course the more “straight” in the center the better, which yours shows.
Greg
9.5 " Center to center. (That bridge is where my two main lines are the closest together. after that they separate and go on thru-out the layout.)
60" switch to switch in length.
stock LGB x over
4 short pics to fit the x over to the switches, and 2 longer pieces to fit the main lines between the switch x over assemble.
Thats just how it worked out on the double track bridge. If it was wider, those 6 mentioned pieces of track would be longer, as needed.
I think thats about the same spacing I have, Eric’s center to center seems tight, but then they are modules… but on the corners I don’t think you can keep the 7-3/8" spacing Eric mentions. (of course depends on the curves, but modules are normally tighter)
Will measure my center to center this weekend, need to order some split-jaw walk on track too…
Greg