Aloha all!
I use truck mounted hook and loop couplers on all my stuff. For reasons unknown, one of the little studs that holds the hook to the truck popped out (I am sure I will find it after I make or buy a replacement). Any suggestions on what I can use to hold the hook in place short of ordering a coupler kit?
And now back to cold beverages, a tropical evening, and the trains!
Eric
You’re talking about the black plastic pins? If it were me, I’d spend a couple of bucks and keep it original and get the correct plastic pin for the car. Don’t know what brand of car that you have, but I believe that LGB, USA Trains, and Bachmann are compatible couplers. But again, I always buy parts for the brand of car that it is. Here’s two pins in case you loose another one - the cheapest I could find:
Or you could go through Trainli, Only Trains, Trainz, or other. A screw would probably do it, but I’d find the original pin or find a compatible replacement.
Michael,
Exactly what I was looking for. I was hoping there might be an off-the-shelf solution, as the shipping is exorbitant. I’ll just add these coupler kits to my next “strategic purchase” of bits and parts I need to keep the Triple O in action!
Thanks for the guidance,
Eric
Eric, you will find that a nice supply of spare parts comes in real handy. I have kind of overdone my spare parts supply, but then again, it never hurts to have one too many springs, clips, pins, spare trucks,… you get the point.
LGB and USA trains are the only 2 truly compatible hook and loop couiplers. Aristo is completely different in design and mounting. Bachmann is similiar but uses very poor plastic (brittle!!).
All these will mate with each other but the mounting on the trucks is very different.
Kadee knuckles are available for most manufacturers without modifications unless going to body mounting.
Eric;
Just send me your full snail mail address, and I’ll send you several replacement pairs FREE OF ALL CHARGES. YES, real LGB parts…FREE
Eric, I was hoping someone would chime in who has spare coupler parts. Nice Guy Fred came through for you. I saw those shipping charges and I’m sure they’re even more from the U.S. to Hawaii. The darn shipping charges of parts many times exceed the costs and value of the parts!
Gentlemen, and especially Fred, thanks so much!
I have been slowly building my store of parts with each order, throwing in a pack of rail clamps or a spare “hoo-zit” each time and saving my order until it makes sense in terms of shipping cost vs. part cost (I have on order in with TrainLi just now, in fact.). Trying to anticipate what will fail next has been the issue! This little plastic pin holding the hook in place was one such item!
Fred, I will send my home address shortly. I’ll label it “Triple O Railroad Bits” in case your SPAM filter doesn’t let it through. Adult beverage is on me your next time through the islands!
Have a great week!
Eric
The parts went into the mail this afternoon…the Post Office suggests 6-8 days, before they are in your hot little hands.
Have fun, Eric…
Fred Mills web page at: www.ovgrs.org/
We look forward to getting them, Fred!
We look forward to getting them, Fred!
Fred,
Oldest Daughter and I spent an hour our so repairing and replacing coupler parts yesterday. We had enough left over to “double end” a few favorites so we don’t have to lift cars off the track. Oldest Daughter was against it until I asked her if it was easier to uncouple hook-to-hook cars or to re-rail 4-axle cars. The couple upgrades commenced, and, by the end, she was doing it herself. Kid-zilla tried to get in the action, too, and now I am down a screw driver…
Sorry I don’t have photos to prove it, but Oldest Son purged the memory card today. That’s life.
Thanks again for your generosity!
Aloha,
Eric
To uncouple double hook cars I do the following:
I use the back side of my swiss army knife
I pick up the car slightly and twist it 45 degrees.
Keep a tongue depressor handy.
one could use a fly swatter!!
I am a fan of the hook and loop couplers, they are cheap, they work and when they fail they are easy to replace.
I seldom have problems with the fleet that comes indoors after a run unless there is a bad derailment that has been known to break couplers but the cars that are left outdoors year round have had their couplers break down from exposure to the sun and elements.
My high tech means of uncoupling the hook and loops is a popsicle stick.
“……high tech means of uncoupling the hook and loops is a popsicle stick. …”
I’ve acquired a few of those free vinyl siding samplers over the yrs. from home improvement centres.
Thin and easily put btwn two H’nLs and pressed down even when the train is passing by (which is even better since the space widens …
Trim them down to a ‘scale’ 4x6 and place them in ‘strategic’ locations around the empire.
As simulated sheets of plywood [light brown, if available on the sampling rack], that some contractor or homeowner has left laying about . . .
nite,
doug c
Gents,
Thanks for the tips! I carry a small screw drive (along with a greenie-weenie and a multimeter) in my cargo pocket for this purpose. It never dawned on me to issue the crew similar (if more disposable!) item.
Eric
An old Credit Card or one of the disposable Hotel key cards works well also. Fits nicely in your back pocket for use when needed. We use them on our Club Switching Layout when we set it up for the Kids along with our Club Module. Even the Kids figure out how to use them.
Another excellent trick! Also, much easier to find credit cards later!
Thin flexible narrow putty knife. Left over piece of thin styrene. Anything like that makes a good double hooknloop uncoupler.
We went with the old credit card / hotel key today. Big enough for small hands, bright enough for old eyes, and highly effective.