Why “Bridge 5” ? Good question. All of my other bridges have names; East & West Es-cape`, Indian Hill, and Meadow Gap. In the vicinity is the root Hollywood Marconi dubbed Natural Bridge. I don’t want to use that name again. I noticed All Pomeroy’s use of RGS prototype numbers on his RR, so seeing that it is my fifth bridge I figured why not just use the number.

Planning for this bridge goes back a long way. I had originally planned a reverse loop at this end of the RR…

but a few years back when the Engine House arrived, I calculated the grade getting back to the main at over 10%…

Not willing to accept that as a mainline grade the loop plan was cancelled. The new plan is a high industry track above the Engine House perpendicular to the existing tracks in the vicinity of this retaining wall…

And maybe someday, an EBT inspired concrete coal dock with a tin hopper shed on the upper track. That is the goal, if I stay in this house long enough.

When Deep Cut Tunnel was built (AKA Fred’s Tomb), the South pad for the bridge was poured using excess concrete from the portal…

Shortly after the Engine House went in, thinking the bridge would never be built, the South pad was removed during a wall repair…

That was before thoughts of the coal dock were thought. As part of my recent storm repairs I put the South pad back in place and last weekend I surveyed the route to Walk Landing. From the existing EOT it’s about 30-35 feet in a curving route rising 20" to a temporary bridge deck. Just under 5% if my calculations are correct. Certainly doable with one or two hoppers. Switching this location with the requirement to move any cars spotted at Walk Landing will take a lot of time and multiple moves.

I’m re-posting a few pictures from my storm thread showing the current status…

So far, all of my model bridges have been of the welded plate girder design. For this one I have been thinking something made from wood. Something fairly uncommon, but not too complicated to build would be perfect. I’m thinking the bridge build will be a Winter 2018 project. One design that interested me as the wood girder style. I’ve been following Devon’s bridge thread and getting some inspiration there as well.

Y knot !

I like the detail of the Howe Truss, but don’t really want to deal with the hardware. I thought of faking it on an aluminum deck, but the regular view is from above so the deck must be see-through. For simplicity of build, this Wood Girder is interesting and not something you see a lot of,…

Being early in the thought process I am open to all suggestions.

that wood girder would work and look great in that spot. Go for it!!

That’s a great looking bridge! Where did you get the example? What scale is it?

I have to agree, I think that bridge would look great in that location… (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

I think it would look great also. Only question is do you have the clearance on the lower track?

Ric Golding said:

That’s a great looking bridge! Where did you get the example? What scale is it?

Found it with Google. I think it’s O Scale. It is sold as a kit. I’ll look for the site again and post a link if I can find it. I have not found a prototype example yet.

Chris Kieffer said:

I think it would look great also. Only question is do you have the clearance on the lower track?

I believe I do, but need to measure… I get under the root behind it with everything except a caboose smokestacks until I trim it a bit.

Nice bridge Jon. I’m with the rest on this one, and believe the style will add to the area(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

Jon

My thought is you are going to have to use a through truss design as you have very little clearance for an over truss.

I set a minimum clearance side and overhead for my layout and rigidly stuck to it. What ever your minimum clearance is make sure this area meets it or it may come back to frustrate you.

As short as the span is I would think any number of designs would look good and be easy to build.

For simplicity there is few choices better than an A frame or queen post.

I will give you the same advice I give everyone. No matter what design you choose on wooden bridges two lengths of metal conduit (even in a short bridge) is cheap and easy insurance from sagging and warping. I hide them under the treadway or if they show, prime them flat black before final assembly. They are invisible from even a couple of feet away. In fact nobody has ever noticed them regardless of how close they inspect the bridge.

$.02

I will look forward to seeing your creation no matter what you choose to build. (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

I like Boomer’s idea…

Hmmmm if you need a pedestrian bridge …

Jon’s lower height limit is already determined by the root just past where he wants to install the bridge… I think Jon’s bridge design is actually the best choice for the location, as the lower box design will help block the view of the root and as shown in the pic with the 44 toner looking head on, there shows to be a level on either side for the box design to sit on…

Personally, I think Jon’s design would be a great enhancement to his railroad…

my 2 cents worth. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

Thank you Boomer. Not being completely sure on the available space I got out there this afternoon with the Fn3 Clearance Gauge and a tape…

The gauge is 10" from railhead to top. The temporary bridge deck is at 14.5" and the bottom of the ties for the track above is at 15.25" My standard wood bridge deck is just under .5" thick. This leaves me about 4.5" for the girder. At 1.20.3 that’s about 7.5 scale feet. Should look OK. I will see what I can do about hiding some aluminum angle in the girder to keep thinks in line.

@Boomer; do you think a pair of .25x.25x.125 AL angles would do the job. Could probably do 4 if needed. I don’t really have any room in the girder design for steel conduit.

Andy Clarke said:

Jon’s lower height limit is already determined by the root just past where he wants to install the bridge… I think Jon’s bridge design is actually the best choice for the location, as the lower box design will help block the view of the root and as shown in the pic with the 44 toner looking head on, there shows to be a level on either side for the box design to sit on…

Personally, I think Jon’s design would be a great enhancement to his railroad…

my 2 cents worth. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

It sure is Andy. Today, the root has grown to where my gauge no longer fits under. I’ve busted off a few caboose smoke pipes on it. The rock on the left is also violating my minimums by .25" or so…

tell the root to stop growing. Just my $.02 with $.01 (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)3/4 change

Jon,

I’m still pondering on this and leaning towards Boomers thoughts. I didn’t realize that you wanted to block the (root) “Natural Bridge” for photo ops as dad said? I kinda like the root/ natural bridge . Also thinking on 1:1 that it’s a mining spur (correct?) so not much expense would be put into "#5 " as it was on the mines dime.

I’m really leaning towards some steel/iron girders with wooded ties as the original 1:1 CVRR had them all over the place at the turn of the century. That deck truss that you like(me too) would be WAY too heavy for the period and way too much expense. Besides it would be nothing but a leaf trap under the tree.

IMO that span if doing with wood “would” have been a king or queen post truss. However steel/iron girders with nice “wooden heavy bridge ties” would have been correct as well. You have an over and under bridge with steam locos so don’t forget fire burns wood that usually got rebuilt to steel or IRON.

Yes …your aluminum specs that you asked Boomer about seem more than heavy enough to to do the job. PM me you addy again as I may have a steel (BASE) span here that I’m not gonna use and may suit your situation if interested.

Good stuff and my short rant …put a memo on the fridge dry erase white board!

This post has been edited by ROOSTER: out of beer

RE Edited for Iron…damnation…love the idea and grade % because 5 is below % on my keyboard …perhaps it was masterfully thought out that way or merely a coincidence ?

Good stuff