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  • Topic: Aristo-Craft Six Axle derailing issues

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    • April 16, 2018 7:37 PM EDT
      • Shawn carries, A Purse 02B12,
         
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      David Maynard said:

      Steve, would it be possible to put a piece of rail where that dip is? You know, custom bend (in both axis) a replacement piece of track, so there is no joint to flex?

       

      Greg, I only have 1 6 axle Aristo diesel, and its an E8. I didn't get the extra weights for it, and so far its preformed like a champ, even with my grade and curves. But, for the benefit of those playing along at home, how much weight should one add to the various Aristo Diesels? I know too much weight is a bad thing, so there should be a target "curb weight" we are shooting for, for good performance without being destructive to the locomotive.

      I thought you stated that you were modeling nothing but pre 1915 narrow gauge in another thread ? Would you like to sell your E-8 ?

    • April 16, 2018 9:10 PM EDT
      • Blairstown, NJ
         
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      Ok, I’m chiming in, i recently did 2 Revo installs on a gentleman’s 2 Aristocraft Dash 9’s. I was test running on my layout, and one of the two engines kept derailing. Upon further investigation, I found that the axles which were meant to pivot were bound up. I loosened the screws slightly on the bottom of the truck and it did not derail. It was simply getting stuck. The engine tracked fine in reverse, but when the locked truck was in front it would derail. Hope this helps.

    • April 16, 2018 9:41 PM EDT
      • Carlsbad, CA
         
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      Yep, on my page I indicate that is not the preferred location for the "fixed" gearbox, even though many were set up that  way from the factory. All the axles should pivot somewhat, bound up usually indicates that the main motor block casting has warped.

       

      Greg

      ____________________________________

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    • April 17, 2018 6:40 AM EDT
      • Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
         
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      " Rooster " said:
      David Maynard said:

      Steve, would it be possible to put a piece of rail where that dip is? You know, custom bend (in both axis) a replacement piece of track, so there is no joint to flex?

       

      Greg, I only have 1 6 axle Aristo diesel, and its an E8. I didn't get the extra weights for it, and so far its preformed like a champ, even with my grade and curves. But, for the benefit of those playing along at home, how much weight should one add to the various Aristo Diesels? I know too much weight is a bad thing, so there should be a target "curb weight" we are shooting for, for good performance without being destructive to the locomotive.

      I thought you stated that you were modeling nothing but pre 1915 narrow gauge in another thread ? Would you like to sell your E-8 ?

      No. She pulls the tourist's "dinner train".

       

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      and King Butt Modeler

    • April 24, 2018 2:39 PM EDT
      • Carlsbad, CA
         
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      Dear TJ, I sure would like to know if the "conversion" to effectively 2 axle trucks (4 wheel) with "center flanges" has worked. If it has, it would also be helpful to others as to what diameter you turned the wheels down to.

       

      Thanks, Greg

       

      TJ Weber said:

      Paul,

       

      Code 250 track is used inside, everything outside is code 332 on the mainlines.  Paul is correct in the similarity of methods, but unfortunately the large temperature swings make it impractical to glue down the track, and previous attempts have failed.  Was outdoors testing a few units, and found that the only practical solution for us was to remove the center wheel, removing it and in essence making a long 4 wheel truck resolved all the tracking issues.  My father and I are now planning to turn down the center wheel treads to a diameter where they are little more than aesthetic, this will solve our issue in a practical manor. 

      I appreciate everyone's input on the subject.  I agree that our trackwork is not perfect, but external conditions preclude us from being able to take all the advice given on how to improve it.  The six-axles have been an issue for many years, and now they should finally be able to take their proper place pulling tonnage on the Mojave Sub! 

       

      TJ Weber   

       

      ____________________________________

      Be sure­ to visit ­my site, l­ots of tec­hnical tip­s and modi­fications,­ and you c­an search ­for topics­ and key w­ords.


      ­Click HERE for Greg­'s web sit­e
      PLEASE NOT­E: Please do NOT use private messaging, i­f you have­ a questio­n, feel fr­ee to emai­l me priva­tely, u­se regular­ email onl­y: greg@el­massian.co­m

    • April 24, 2018 7:08 PM EDT
      • Oley, Pennsylvania
         
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      Greg, 

      Project has been placed on the backburner for the time being while I figure out an effective and efficient way to turn these on the lathe, the chuck is not being overly cooperative.  I will be sure to update the post when I've come to a working solution, 

       

      Thanks

      TJ Weber

       

      This post was edited by TJ Weber at April 24, 2018 7:08 PM EDT
    • April 24, 2018 9:01 PM EDT
      • Shawn carries, A Purse 02B12,
         
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      Watching

    • April 24, 2018 11:17 PM EDT
      • Deer Park, Washington
         
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      Bruce Chandler had a thread on shaving down a wheel flange.  You might check with him.

      This post was edited by Steve Featherkile at April 24, 2018 11:32 PM EDT
      ____________________________________

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    • April 25, 2018 2:11 AM EDT
      • Carlsbad, CA
         
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      I understand the dilemma, you need to make a tool, that is a rod with a taper at one end, and tap and thread a hole in it, you chuck this up and then mount the wheel on it.

      Besides giving you a good mount to get to any part of the tread or flange, it will also true up the wheel a bit.

      I would suggest leaving the flange or totally removing it. With the long wheelbase, leaving it will work better in my estimation.

       

      Greg

      ____________________________________

      Be sure­ to visit ­my site, l­ots of tec­hnical tip­s and modi­fications,­ and you c­an search ­for topics­ and key w­ords.


      ­Click HERE for Greg­'s web sit­e
      PLEASE NOT­E: Please do NOT use private messaging, i­f you have­ a questio­n, feel fr­ee to emai­l me priva­tely, u­se regular­ email onl­y: greg@el­massian.co­m

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