I think the info has been lost at least to me from 2016s build. What is the ratio between muratic acid and hydrogen peroxide (3%) for giving the aluminum that galvanized look and some tooth?
Edit to say I am experimenting with 1:1 right now and it is working but slow which means controlled.
Well I still would like the ratio but I abandon the muratic acid at least for now. I ran out of patience and acid. at 1:1 and 2:1 hydrogen peroxide/muratic acid i was taking way to long and actually ate the aluminum in a weird way that I didn’t like. Not at all the same results I got with the Taylor tin. So for this build I used grey primer to give it the galvanized color. I will be heavily rusting it so this should still work.
Devon, below is what I ended up with using the acid/peroxide mixture. I’m not exactly sure of the ratio, but I believe it was more or less 1:1. Obviously, I have painted the pieces shown below, but it will give you an idea of the texture I ended up with. What I found was the reaction took a 15-20 seconds to get going but once it did it took off so you had to pay attention. It works well and I liked the results. You can also use aluminum blackener which can be found at jewelry supply stores online. It works really well but it is expensive for a lot of tin.
See Dan that looks good. I had it in 1:1 and 2:1 for more like 4-5 minutes. It was still shinny but parts of it ate through. What aluminum are you using. I am using soda cans. The Taylor Tin worked much as you described.
Devon, all I’ve tried it on is Taylor Tin. Not sure, but could soda cans have some sort of coating that is preventing the solution from getting to the AL?
Soda cans DO HAVE A COATING on the inside and outside of the can applied during manufacturing. Taylor Tin is virgin.
A thin plastic coating … but can give nice results when burned off. One should anneal that thin stuff anyway to prevent tearing in the crimper.
I’ve got a couple of clothespins should you want to stain 'em rusty!(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-money-mouth.gif)
That’s what I get for using anything other than the best, Taylor Tin. It makes sense there is a coating. It also makes sense why it just burnt through without etching. I will file that away. I had no issue with it tearing in the crimper. As it stands I got the look i want with just paint.
Devon Sinsley said:
That’s what I get for using anything other than the best, Taylor Tin. It makes sense there is a coating. It also makes sense why it just burnt through without etching. I will file that away. I had no issue with it tearing in the crimper. As it stands I got the look i want with just paint.
Devon,
I have seen but not tried yet aluminum foil cooking trays.
In this link about halfway down there is an article on a “Hebel” house (25 Aug 17) and it shows the cooking tray that guy uses.
http://www.trainweb.org/SaTR/glatest.htm
When I spoke to him I seem to recall he lightly sand the flattened aluminum to remove any coating prior to etching and painting, if you email him he should be able to tell what he uses for etchant.
well, for this down there, i just cut, crimped and glued with UHU.
to get a rough and grey surface, just take some slightly salty water and wet between trays or between crimped sheets. and wait some days.
or you just apply this grey anti oxid primer, to later drybrush with reddish brown tones.
Since I wanted basically a solid red rusted panel I think this came out OK. I painted it with grey primer and then a mix of burnt sienna, raw umber, and burnt umber brushed on and then stippled to give it a rough look. I then put some red weathering chalk on it and varied how much to give it an uneven look. I like it.
Real rust does that naturally, those clothes pins were dirt cheap, but Nooooooooooooo.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-money-mouth.gif)
John Caughey said:
Real rust does that naturally, those clothes pins were dirt cheap, but Nooooooooooooo.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-money-mouth.gif)
Someone on here said they used steel shim stock run through the crimper. I want to try that next and then I will take you up on those cloths pins. Just don’t think aluminum will make that pretty red by itself(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)
Nice rafters !
Mix the stuff at 80% not 3% then stick it in the basement to allow it to crystallize for a year but don’t smoke it till it’s reached it’s full cured strength.
Devon Sinsley said:
John Caughey said:
Real rust does that naturally, those clothes pins were dirt cheap, but Nooooooooooooo.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-money-mouth.gif)
Someone on here said they used steel shim stock run through the crimper. I want to try that next and then I will take you up on those cloths pins. Just don’t think aluminum will make that pretty red by itself(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)
The stainless steel track didn’t rust either, it was the steel wool snakes that the clothespins held in place. I used vinegar to make the rust dust stick until I could quickly fog on the first clear coat.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
My how quickly they forget!
If you run steel, you can get rust with the muriatic…
Devon Sinsley said:
John Caughey said:
Real rust does that naturally, those clothes pins were dirt cheap, but Nooooooooooooo.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-money-mouth.gif)
Someone on here said they used steel shim stock run through the crimper. I want to try that next and then I will take you up on those cloths pins. Just don’t think aluminum will make that pretty red by itself(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)
That was me. Here’s a shot Bruce took of the colliery. Its rusting up nicely.
What was the thickness you use Bob and do you crimp it with the paper crimper?
That looks great!
Devon Sinsley said:
What was the thickness you use Bob and do you crimp it with the paper crimper?
This was .001”. It’s actually probably TOO thin because some of the siding is already getting brittle. I suspect the Fiskars crimper could handle much thicker.
Rooster reports Bob McCown to the moderator for saying: Fiskars
